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Change in range at the moment is mainly the ambient temperature increase I guess, It can make a big difference if the car has no need to heat the battery after getting frozen overnight.

With a cheap rate electricity tariff use the car's timers, they work well and with a charge point you can fill it in the octopus 4 hour slot, needs the 3.2kW charge to do this from empty.

As all have noted keeping it plugged in is not a problem with this beast as it keeps a large buffer above what it calls fully charged and equally there is a bottom buffer when the car shows 0miles remaining. The actual battery is around 16kWh but you are only permitted to use @ 10.8kWh of it ;)
 
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I don't really know much about this but I though that the latest standards for chargers might obviate the concerns over being plugged in during a thunderstorm as they include a much higher level of electrical protection. And that'd only be on the latest chargers, can't say from when. Has to still be safer to unplug though...
 

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silly question here, but I have used a Tesco podpoint 7kw, and it worked fine. Can I also use the 22kw podpoints too?, or does it make no difference to the 7kw podpoint?
 

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Yes. 22kW is simply 7kW offered on all 3 phases, and the Ampera/any other 7kW or 3kW charging EV will just use 1 phase. But you might annoy Zoes who rock up wanting their 22 kW as that's the best they can ever get in most of them!
 

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GOLF GTE PHEV
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Thinking of accepting a Mootorway offer for my Leaf and buying a 2014 Ampera. My daily usage is only 10miles so apart from two long weekends 250miles each way per month, so it will be pure electric.
A couple of questions:
1. Is there remote heating activation by an app? (Positiv model)
2. If the car has completed charging overnight but still connected to the mains, when the heating is activated will the mains provide the power rather than draining the battery? (the Leaf reactivates the charger when the heating is remotely activate)
3. What problems might I find on a 2014 130k mile car?
 

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The car is Pre-App ;) Remote heating, preconditioning, is via the keyfob, Click the button and a 10 min preheat / cool starts - just leave your car on the temp you want. A second cycle can be done for really cold mornings.
If the car is on an EVSE it will draw from the mains, otherwise the battery. The preheat is more powerful than the 3.6kW Onboard charger and will top the battery back up afterwards (about 10/15 mins) if allowed.
Many a winter morning I've watched the rest of the street scrape their cars whilst I have breakfast, wander out and drive off...

Charging - the onboard timers work - its a ready by type so for GO I set 4:30am takes 3.5-4 hours on a 3.6+ EVSE, use a dumb charger or a dumb setting, then run the preheat from the fob. the range of the fob is huge for this function.

Edit Problems?
Replace the 12v battery as prone to failure at 4 to 5 years. Rusted up brakes - usual EV problem, not used. Probably never had the brake fluid changed. Mechanically there is a lot of Astra running gear so a mechanic not frightened of orange snakes can fix them.
 

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The car can use upto 6kW when heating, and works for 10 minutes on each boost, but usually the first boost is the biggest power draw. So the first boost is 1kWh, but half comes from the mains and half from the battery. That's why it takes 10 minutes to recharge after the first boost in cold weather.

In extreme cold weather or when away from home in heavy snow, it will even use the engine remotely!
 

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...half comes from the mains and half from the battery. That's why it takes 10 minutes to recharge after the first boost in cold weather.
So if you do a second boost in normal UK winter weather (say 0°C) is it able to top up the battery from the first boost while also doing the second boost? In other words, will you get more electric range if you do a second boost?
 

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Each boost takes power from the battery and Mains, then refills the battery afterwards.
As the pre-condition heats both the battery and the cabin, you get more range from the battery as its not heating the battery and you don't need to heat the human - the heated seats will do in a warmed cabin even on freezing days outside.
If its really cold then ERDTT occurs (engine running due to temperature) and the engine idles providing warm water to the cabin and battery though I think the designers actually cared about the battery and did not worry about the humans....

For long (out of electric range) journeys in winter I run the engine in the early part of the journey for heat then carry on in electric mode using the residual engine heat.
 

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Each boost takes power from the battery and Mains, then refills the battery afterwards.
That's not true. Especially when cooling, the system is only using 3kW which is available from the mains. It's only when the heater is required at full power (6kW) that mains and battery are depleted.
 

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So if you do a second boost in normal UK winter weather (say 0°C) is it able to top up the battery from the first boost while also doing the second boost? In other words, will you get more electric range if you do a second boost?
Hard to say. If the power demand for the second boost is less than 3kW then it could top-up whilst doing the second boost, yes. But only the margin available on that boost.
 

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True, Cooling (nice in summer) won't hit the battery if plugged in. Heating is much more of a problem due to the power often needed. Mine has always seemed to need a recharge after the second pre-condition even if left till the initial pre-condition has finished recharging the battery.
 

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The car is Pre-App ;) Remote heating, preconditioning, is via the keyfob, Click the button and a 10 min preheat / cool starts - just leave your car on the temp you want. A second cycle can be done for really cold mornings.
If the car is on an EVSE it will draw from the mains, otherwise the battery. The preheat is more powerful than the 3.6kW Onboard charger and will top the battery back up afterwards (about 10/15 mins) if allowed.
Many a winter morning I've watched the rest of the street scrape their cars whilst I have breakfast, wander out and drive off...

Charging - the onboard timers work - its a ready by type so for GO I set 4:30am takes 3.5-4 hours on a 3.6+ EVSE, use a dumb charger or a dumb setting, then run the preheat from the fob. the range of the fob is huge for this function.

Edit Problems?
Replace the 12v battery as prone to failure at 4 to 5 years. Rusted up brakes - usual EV problem, not used. Probably never had the brake fluid changed. Mechanically there is a lot of Astra running gear so a mechanic not frightened of orange snakes can fix them.
Thanks.
Useful info.

What does the Electron spec have that the Positiv doesn't?
 

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What does the Electron spec have that the Positiv doesn't?
The Electron has an out of date and unupdateable satnav, the Bose sound system with sub which I'm told is good, mine is a Positiv.
There are lines in the reversing camera view which move to show the path of the car. Anything else? :unsure:
 

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The Electron has an out of date and unupdateable satnav, the Bose sound system with sub which I'm told is good, mine is a Positiv.
There are lines in the reversing camera view which move to show the path of the car. Anything else? :unsure:
Sat Nav is crap, out of date and doesn't take a full post code.

There's also a 20GB hard drive for music.
 

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The Electron has an out of date and unupdateable satnav, the Bose sound system with sub which I'm told is good, mine is a Positiv.
There are lines in the reversing camera view which move to show the path of the car. Anything else? :unsure:
Thanks.
There's not many in my price range but very tempted to go an view a couple..

One thing I am not clear one: does all the motive power come from the motor and the engine is simply a generator, or does it also drive the front wheels?
 

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That's a trick question with the transaxel in this beast. it has several modes. This is a diagram of setup.

Wheel Tire Hood Product Automotive lighting

With the ICE on and Clutch3 active then power goes to the battery and MGA. Generate an excess and the engin is turned off and the car runs for a few miles on electric before the engine is restarted (MGA is the "Starter motor" for this car) At speeds above I think 40mph clutch 2 kicks in and some mechanical power is sent to the transmission as well as the MGB power. This is done I think because its more efficient. It feels like the engine is disconnected if you ask for rapid acceleration, there is a pause whilst the planetary gear realigns and full power from MGB is applied perhaps 1/2 second, you can feel a slight hesitation.
There are videos on YouTube on how the thing works if your interested.

One thing to note the ICE runs at fixed speeds generally in what I think is a type of atkinson cycle for more efficiency. it can be a bit unnerving to hear the engine rev and slow down with out any correspondence to the "gas" pedal.

Driving it you would not know, it just works. Its very clever.

One thing the MK1 can not do is power the wheels with both MGA and MGB which would be fun and add quite a bit of power.

Its worth noting the ICE is considerably less powerful than MGB and if heading up a steep hill fast you can run out of oomph and then it slows down :) Rare in the UK as we dont really have long steep hills. This is what mountain mode is about to keep a decent buffer for hill climbing.
 

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That's a trick question with the transaxel in this beast. it has several modes. This is a diagram of setup.

View attachment 151276
With the ICE on and Clutch3 active then power goes to the battery and MGA. Generate an excess and the engin is turned off and the car runs for a few miles on electric before the engine is restarted (MGA is the "Starter motor" for this car) At speeds above I think 40mph clutch 2 kicks in and some mechanical power is sent to the transmission as well as the MGB power. This is done I think because its more efficient. It feels like the engine is disconnected if you ask for rapid acceleration, there is a pause whilst the planetary gear realigns and full power from MGB is applied perhaps 1/2 second, you can feel a slight hesitation.
There are videos on YouTube on how the thing works if your interested.

One thing to note the ICE runs at fixed speeds generally in what I think is a type of atkinson cycle for more efficiency. it can be a bit unnerving to hear the engine rev and slow down with out any correspondence to the "gas" pedal.

Driving it you would not know, it just works. Its very clever.

One thing the MK1 can not do is power the wheels with both MGA and MGB which would be fun and add quite a bit of power.

Its worth noting the ICE is considerably less powerful than MGB and if heading up a steep hill fast you can run out of oomph and then it slows down :) Rare in the UK as we dont really have long steep hills. This is what mountain mode is about to keep a decent buffer for hill climbing.
Thanks for that. I'll take a look at the videos.
This seems to be a great compromise between a Honda CRZ/Insight which has a battery assisted 1.5L engine but cannot use battery power alone, and a conventional auto box or CVT.

I only do 10miles / day during the week and usually not much further at weekends except for 250mile each way trips to Argyll once or twice / month. So daily use will be on battery which I can do at home using the Leafs charger with a type 1 cable fitted.

it seems on the long journeys the mpg is going to be around 55 (60mph, averaging in the Leaf at journeys end of 50) ?
 

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