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One that's done 130k miles is likely to need new CV driveshafts. These are not the same as Astras, but unique to Volt Mk1 = Ampera. I fitted OEM ones to be sure of perfection, had to order from USA & imported them myself, was a slog but interesting. Total cost of parts & import I think about £450. Others have used cheaper replica parts from eBay, might be fine, but have heard stories about vibration, so I didn't want to take the risk.

Mine weren't sounding rattly, but one gaiter had split & MOT advisory said was leakign grease, so rather then swap the gaiter then have to repeat if the joint went, I decided at 84000 miles just to fit new ones. I got the old pair reconditioned & sold on, the specialist guy in B'ham said one side was ok but the other was definitely worn, so I think I made the right choice to renew the lot.

Wheel bearings tend to go around 100k miles, but are much easier to change, may be standard Astra J or somesuch.

So when test driving, do the usual walking-speed turn right as hard as poss & listen for knocking from the CVs, ditto turn left.
Sometimes there's a click/knock from front wheels when going from accel to decel, maybe when braking hard, I think this can be the spline rattling in the wheel hub, can be someone changed the CVs but didn't use new nuts, might be fixed by re-tightenign the wheel bearing nuts.
 

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Once the electric is done then I get @ 50mpg, I'm not a fast driver so some will get worse :) You should see 55 if you take it carefully but remember the go pedal has no control over the ICE, The ICE is controlled by the car - not you!

It could be said its a 2 speed gearbox I guess. using the other when running at a constant speed. If you just accelerate it goes from 0 to 100 without any change, hold it at 60 for a short while and it clutches in MGA and drops the speed of MGB for better efficiency at least that is what it feels like.
 

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Just looked on autotrader... what's happening!, there is a 64 plate positive at 14K which is not much less than I paid for mine 6+ years ago. similar mileage too. Madness
 

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GOLF GTE PHEV
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One that's done 130k miles is likely to need new CV driveshafts. These are not the same as Astras, but unique to Volt Mk1 = Ampera. I fitted OEM ones to be sure of perfection, had to order from USA & imported them myself, was a slog but interesting. Total cost of parts & import I think about £450. Others have used cheaper replica parts from eBay, might be fine, but have heard stories about vibration, so I didn't want to take the risk.

Mine weren't sounding rattly, but one gaiter had split & MOT advisory said was leakign grease, so rather then swap the gaiter then have to repeat if the joint went, I decided at 84000 miles just to fit new ones. I got the old pair reconditioned & sold on, the specialist guy in B'ham said one side was ok but the other was definitely worn, so I think I made the right choice to renew the lot.

Wheel bearings tend to go around 100k miles, but are much easier to change, may be standard Astra J or somesuch.

So when test driving, do the usual walking-speed turn right as hard as poss & listen for knocking from the CVs, ditto turn left.
Sometimes there's a click/knock from front wheels when going from accel to decel, maybe when braking hard, I think this can be the spline rattling in the wheel hub, can be someone changed the CVs but didn't use new nuts, might be fixed by re-tightenign the wheel bearing nuts.
i'm waiting for the seller to confirm it will have a full MOT. If the CV joints are in a bad way this should be picked up.
The advisories to date have mainly been for discs so unless also replaced, it may fail on these this time.
It's a 120 mile each way trek to drive depending on the sellers attitude.

I buy most spares from buycaraparts.co.uk - Germany based and they sell a choice of brands for most parts. A quick look showed the usual things to be reasonable.
No drive shafts or CV joints listed though, just boots.
 

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@farmergiles My motorway economy is nearer 40-45 MPG at motorway speeds.

They ICE will drive the wheels at steady, low demand situations like motorway cruising. It's only detectable because there's a sort of hesitant kick-down feeling when you then need the additional power to accelerate, for example to overtake.

I think the Sport mode largely just adjusts the throttle response (no additional power or steering and suspension changes) but also delays or prevents the direct engine running so you always have a greater level of responsiveness.
 

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Just looked on autotrader... what's happening!, there is a 64 plate positive at 14K which is not much less than I paid for mine 6+ years ago. similar mileage too. Madness
Agreed. In 2015 I paid £15,250 for a 3-year old Electron with 17k miles on it. Bellingers were asking £17,500 for a couple of similar ones they had.
 

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That eBay ad said 3 owners, not sure where you saw 1 owner ?
My bad. I was also looking at an Ampera too which had 1 owner but has done 135k miles.

The mot history shows CV boot issues so if they have just replaced the boots (probably) and not the joints, this rings alarm bells.
Best avoided?

The Volt has done 98k and had a generator bearing done.
 

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Just to be sure, I can fit a 32A charger at home and the Ampera will tell it to only send 16A yes?

If I am paying to get my old crappy wall point replaced, I might want to future proof a little.
 

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Yes.
I have an untethered Zappi and charge my Ampera with it, it's waiting for my next car which will be a type 2 and 7kw (32amp) though I have difficulty seeing what will replace the Amp.
 

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Exactly my point. I recently tired the Mokka and the Corsa-e - upon shutting the doors once, I could tell by the tinny plink, the build quality of the Amepera isn't there!

Most new cars cost £25k upwards and have a 10Kw battery the same as ours.... No thanks.
 

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... I might want to future proof a little.
Ampera takes a Type-1 plug on the EVSE cable, all newer cars take Type-2. So you may want to go for an untethered EVSE to make the cable changeover easy. Otoh just seen an append where someone 's just had their cable nicked while car was charging, so if you're in a dodgy area, an untethered cable might need some extra padlock/shackle to make it safer.
 
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