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'18 Zoe ZE 40 R110 + '21 VW ID.4 1st
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here hardwired front/rear dashcams into your EV(s)? I'm thinking about getting something like this:


and then using a hardwiring kit like this:


to permanently install them into both of my EVs. (I have a 2018 Renault Zoe and a 2021 VW ID.4 if that matters.) I don't really have any experience with anything like this though - how difficult would they be to install? Should I buy the hardware and take them to a professional to do?
 

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Yes, I've done several, latest being my I-Pace and my wife's Zoe. The Zoe was dead easy, as the fuse box is easily accessible behind the glove box and a fuse tap plugs in easily, plus there's loads of space to run the cable behind the trim and into the space behind the fuse box, where the power supply can sit. The I-Pace was a lot more work, as the fuse box is under the rear seat. It's also more work running the cable behind the trim panels, as there is nowhere near as much room behind some of them.

The Zoe installation took me around 30 minutes, start to finish, the I-Pace took over 3 hours. Out of the two, finding a good location for the camera on the windscreen was easier on the I-Pace than the Zoe. I ended up fitting the Zoe camera to the left of the central housing that has the sensors, as anywhere else would have been a bit noticeable when driving. The I-Pace had enough room behind the mirror to hide the camera well, and is the neater installation of the two.
 

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I have twin Nextbase cameras in my ID4, took me around 45 minutes to install front and rear cameras and then add the hard wiring kit as the glove box is accessible.
 

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'18 Zoe ZE 40 R110 + '21 VW ID.4 1st
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have twin Nextbase cameras in my ID4, took me around 45 minutes to install front and rear cameras and then add the hard wiring kit as the glove box is accessible.
Hmm.. Those look very nice, but also very expensive... (Two sets with kit would be close to £300 versus £100 for two full sets of the one I linked.) Is this an instance where "you get what you pay for"? I'd prefer to not drop £300 on this, but I also want something that will work well and keep working for a long time...
 

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I've been a fan of budget dash cams for years now. The cheap "801" (made by lots of different companies) that was in my old Prius worked very well, well enough to twice get me out of hot water by proving other drivers were at fault, and I transferred that cam to the i3, where it gave good enough video when I was parked to allow another car owner to trace and claim against the owner of the car that drove into him whilst he was shopping. That was a 1080p camera, with a tiny footprint, and is the one I've just fitted to my wife's Zoe (I did fit a new lithium battery in it first, as the old one was a bit tired). I've fitted a identical looking camera, but with a higher resolution sensor and a supercapacitor instead of an internal battery, to the I-Pace. I can't fault either of them, TBH, and really like the small size and the ease of setting them up. Both have GPS so speed, location etc data is logged along with the video. The old one that's now in the Zoe is no longer available, but the slightly better one in the same case that I have in the I-Pace is this one: Mini0805P Full HD 1296P Car Dash Camera Video Recording GPS DVR +DashBoard Kits | eBay
 

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This thread could have been called "Hardwiring Front/Rear Dashcams in a car" as there is literally nothing different about doing it in an EV than any other car. Just saying. :) (Possible exception - Tesla, as they don't use traditional mini fuse boxes, so you'd have to tap into 12v some other way)

I installed a front facing camera in my Leaf using the standard Halfords hardwired dashcam kit without any issues.
 

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'18 Zoe ZE 40 R110 + '21 VW ID.4 1st
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This thread could have been called "Hardwiring Front/Rear Dashcams in a car" as there is literally nothing different about doing it in an EV than any other car. Just saying. :) (Possible exception - Tesla, as they don't use traditional mini fuse boxes, so you'd have to tap into 12v some other way)

I installed a front facing camera in my Leaf using the standard Halfords hardwired dashcam kit without any issues.
I wasn't sure if it was different for an EV, hence the question! ;)
 

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I wasn't sure if it was different for an EV, hence the question! ;)

It's a good question, too, as not everyone will know that most EVs have a 12 V system that is very similar to that in any other car. If anything, I suspect that most people that are new to EVs may assume that they have a very different 12 V system, one that might make wiring in things like this a bit different.
 

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I've been a fan of budget dash cams for years now. The cheap "801" (made by lots of different companies) that was in my old Prius worked very well, well enough to twice get me out of hot water by proving other drivers were at fault, and I transferred that cam to the i3, where it gave good enough video when I was parked to allow another car owner to trace and claim against the owner of the car that drove into him whilst he was shopping. That was a 1080p camera, with a tiny footprint, and is the one I've just fitted to my wife's Zoe (I did fit a new lithium battery in it first, as the old one was a bit tired). I've fitted a identical looking camera, but with a higher resolution sensor and a supercapacitor instead of an internal battery, to the I-Pace. I can't fault either of them, TBH, and really like the small size and the ease of setting them up. Both have GPS so speed, location etc data is logged along with the video. The old one that's now in the Zoe is no longer available, but the slightly better one in the same case that I have in the I-Pace is this one: Mini0805P Full HD 1296P Car Dash Camera Video Recording GPS DVR +DashBoard Kits | eBay
i've had the mini 801 and the mini 806 which I loved. Took the 806 6 out of the old car and just have to fit it to the ID4, but havent had a free weekend to do it yet.
I too can recommend these ones. I got mine from aliexpress as it was cheaper than ebay.
 

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It's a good question, too, as not everyone will know that most EVs have a 12 V system that is very similar to that in any other car. If anything, I suspect that most people that are new to EVs may assume that they have a very different 12 V system, one that might make wiring in things like this a bit different.
Yeah, I was being a little facetious in my reply. :) It's a reasonable question to ask but unless you're talking about Tesla, (who have gone the way of fully electronic "fuses" and in the Model 3/Y don't have a single mechanical 12v relay or fuse in the entire car) all other EV's I'm aware of have standard 12v systems with standard automotive relays and fuses.

In the case of the Leaf the interior fuse box is behind the plastic panel on the left hand end of the dashboard where the passenger door closes. I actually found fitting the hardwire kit to my Leaf easier than my ICE as fuse box access and cable routing was more straight forward.

In the case of a Tesla you'd possibly have to bring a new wire with an inline fuse holder through the firewall directly from the 12v battery, not sure never having seen under the frunk in one, but without regular fuses you certainly can't use the piggyback fuse adaptor most kits come with.
 

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One word of caution if running cable down an A pillar.
My driver's and front passenger side (curtain) airbags deploy from the A pillars, so I had to run the cable down nearest the windscreen so that it did not impede airbag deployment.
 

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One word of caution if running cable down an A pillar.
My driver's and front passenger side (curtain) airbags deploy from the A pillars, so I had to run the cable down nearest the windscreen so that it did not impede airbag deployment.
Exactly this.

 

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One word of caution if running cable down an A pillar.
My driver's and front passenger side (curtain) airbags deploy from the A pillars, so I had to run the cable down nearest the windscreen so that it did not impede airbag deployment.
There are airbags inside both A-pillars on my Leaf as well and probably most modern cars, so this is a common issue to face installing a dashcam.

If you're careful it's usually possible to run the cable beside and behind the airbag in such a way that the cable won't impede deployment of the airbag. A bit of common sense needed when routing the cable. Certainly don't cross the cable on top of the airbag. On the Leaf there is a lot of space around the airbag so not an issue there.
 

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Its worth thinking about where the airbags are an making sure you don't cross them anywhere particularly on the A pillar. Its not likely to be a big problem but I wouldn't want a USB plug embedded in my face. On my I3 I couldn't get a decent cable run between front and back so went for separate front and rear cameras as the back is then much neater and its one less cable on the screen.
 

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If you have an auto-darkening rear-view mirror, there's probably an ignition- switched 12V supply to it, which can be a very a convenient place to feed a dashcam
Hi - can anyone tell me how to break into that mirror/camera/sensor area to potentially pick up a 12 volt supply?
OverlandRod Melbourne.
 

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Hmm.. Those look very nice, but also very expensive... (Two sets with kit would be close to £300 versus £100 for two full sets of the one I linked.) Is this an instance where "you get what you pay for"? I'd prefer to not drop £300 on this, but I also want something that will work well and keep working for a long time...
Does anyone know where an ignition switched supply can be picked up in the back of a 40Kw Leaf?
 
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