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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning to have a go at fitting a new door handle to see if I can cure the issue of "door buttons not working" and I have come across my first hurdle. The Right Hand door is different to those in the Volt parts diagram and YouTube video. Has anyone on here tackled this job?
 

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Graham - I've not tackled this job but if you search on the forum there are many items about the door handle problems and the general conclusion is not to bother and don't use the door buttons. When I had my first Ampera, I had the Vauxhall dealer order in new handles and they had a go but concluded that it needed work on the wiring loom at an extortionate cost.
 

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Info in this thread

I did repair handles yesterday. I used info from German ampera forum Opel Ampera & Chevrolet Volt Forum • Thema anzeigen - Türgriffe
But that dude start separating handle on wrong side. Here are some pictures of what i did. Took me at least 2 hours for second handle. 3hours for first one. Both rear ones were faulty. Now even front ones works better, it unlocks imideatly as before it was a delay, because one of the rear had dirt inside the button, where it should be waterproof and was making contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All useful info - thank you. What troubles me is that the driver's door does not have the usual rubber grommet. Instead there is a small round plastic disc that is held in place with a central screw - this may be a mod because the proper grommet was lost but may I please ask if anyone else has this cover screwed in place on the driver's door?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
View attachment 117512
Mine (MY13) has the plastic disk with a Torx through it - drivers door only.
That is two of us - this is not shown in the exploded parts diagrams so I wonder if this is some sort of dealer fix or if all UK Amperas uniquely have this? If so it could mean that the inner door panel would need to come off to change the handle.
 

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I do know mine has been changed, done under warranty at <3 years old. and the splines are marked slightly.

Would help to know if anyone with other door handles that have been changed has the rubber gromet still or the plastic disk.
 

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Mine looks like Spiny's photo too. I actually had a bash at this about a year ago and actually took the interior door panel off when I realised it wasn't matching the YouTube video - to see if I could still get it off. I gave up unfortunately - but it must be possible. I was really hoping someone with a bit more perseverance would work it out! Unfortunately being so long ago I don't remember the exact stage where I decided to stop unscrewing things or what the exact issue was.
 

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Odd that. I have the disk in the drivers door and three rubber grommets.
May be the grommets were not felt to be permanent enough in the most used door.

I guess the disk will have a plate behind that allows it to come out when loosened. Will check soon as I mean to sort the buttons out with a repair.

Stupidly it seems that the loom plug to the handle is only accessible from under the door card and snipping the wires may be needed to access the handle properly.

We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My Astra had the same button failure issue but I didn't attempt a repair because it was still under warranty. I think it is a generic issue and the button mechanism may be the same over a range of vehicles. Having got used to keyless entry, it is nice to have . . .
 

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Look forward to seeing a report when someone succeeds in getting the remote buttons working on theirs as it is annoying to not have them working
 

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After reading a couple or repair reports it is pretty obvious that tiny button switches have been used that are more suited to PCB's.

I will attempt a repair soon because some other problems experienced on these cars have been attributed to these buttons and possibly due to the buttons staying closed and maybe forcing some failure mode in the software.

My rear ones work fine and have done for years. Possibly ham fisted previous drivers pressing hard during the delay before the front door unlocks.

You only have to press lightly and wait in the same way that the hatch button has a delay.
 

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Hi, mine (MY12) also has the disc with torx screw in the centre, on the drivers door. I would have tried to remove it, but my handles are about to be replaced under warranty, ( for the switch issue) so will bend the technician’s ear afterward to discover why it’s different to the other doors.
 

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I've changed all the buttons to Omron B3SL-1022P IP67 protected switches, but they can't take the weather either in the long run. According to reports in a Finnish FB group, the internals of a door handle from gen 2 Volt and others that use the same handle would be better:

NEW OEM ADDICT RED FRONT PASSIVE ENTRY DOOR HANDLE MALIBU IMPALA VOLT ACADIA [H8 | eBay
I wouldn't mind having a go, but how did you get the drivers door handle off? Did yours have the disc as in the photo above?
 

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Apparently, there is a bolt under the grommet/disc that can be undone to release the handle.

I think has a torq head.
Problem appears to be that the plug between handle and door loom stays out of reach in the door so others have simply cut the wires and soldered them back together after repair.
Otherwise you need to remove the door card etc which can be a bind and also may not go back undamaged.

I will try the first way.
 

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I wouldn't mind having a go, but how did you get the drivers door handle off? Did yours have the disc as in the photo above?
No, sorry, mine had a regular plug. Actually, right front didn't have a plug at all I'd assume that disk is just a fancy version of this:

So I'd start by loosening it and seeing if it's possible to remove it.

It's possible to remove the handle without removing the door panel. You'll just need an O-ring hook tool, preferably with a less than 90 degree angle. I'd suggest something like the second one from left here:

With the tool you can release the connector once the handle is out. It's a bit fiddly until you get it. Took me an hour the first time, but after that it's a minute or so. The connector has a locking clip in one corner of the wider end, and you'll need to get the sharp end between the connector and its receptable and pry it loose.

When putting things back in, make sure to push the connector in properly. The hook tool can be used to push it, but it needs to be in just the right angle or it won't click in properly. You can familiarize yourself with how the connector looks e.g. with the images of the ebay item I posted the link to before.
 
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