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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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I’m a mechanic,but not on ev’s.
I’ve got an ampera and this is what I’ve always done with any car with matrix problems.
Remove both hoses leading to the matrix in the engine bay,put a hose pipe onto one of them and turn on fully,if it’s got a slight block in it,it will come out.
If it’s not flowing,swop they pipes and try that.
If it’s blocked,then you’ll have to remove it.
The electric heat is by an element,only the heat off the ice is through the matrix in the car.
Let us know how you got on.
That's exactly what you cannot do with the Ampera. Forget your old ICE ways, you are now a part of history!
 

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That's exactly what you cannot do with the Ampera. Forget your old ICE ways, you are now a part of history!
Surely you can disconnect the heater matrix and flush it through,reconnect the pipes and with vacuum pull or pressure fill it back up.
You won’t be touching the rest of the cars cooling /heating system.
I need a donor volt to strip down I think as I can’t get on the EV course until we are out of lockdown.
Wales is still 3 weeks +
 

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Replacing a heater matrix on a 1995 VW is a dashboard out job and a dealer would happily quote you 12 hours labour for it. Multi-thousand pound repairs are not the exclusive domain of electric vehicles and never have been.
Particularly as EVs are mechanically simpler than ICE. However PHEVs are Frankenstein's monster as they contain both systems and have to take extreme measures to achieve functions such as heating from both power sources and package both in the same space originally just designed for an ICE. PHEVs will be a brief wrong turning in the evolution of the car with the majority reaching the secondhand market and peak unreliability at the point new ones are banned.
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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27,688 Posts
Surely you can disconnect the heater matrix and flush it through,reconnect the pipes and with vacuum pull or pressure fill it back up.
You won’t be touching the rest of the cars cooling /heating system.
I need a donor volt to strip down I think as I can’t get on the EV course until we are out of lockdown.
Wales is still 3 weeks +
The expensive bit is taking it out. The cheap bit is replacing it, so why bother risking re-purposing an old one if you can get it out?

If you are trying to release the hoses elsewhere in the circuit, you will be confronted with pump motors, HV heaters, sensors and circuit valves. Maybe there is some possibility to it, but I would reserve my doubt.
 

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I think our type of car will be phased out In the end, people just won’t have enough money to throw at them if or when they break down.
They are very complicated machines and parts are quite expensive.
Better range BEV’s are being developed all the time.
ill be looking for a BEV next year.
 

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EREV owner
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OK so first off I'm fairly sure I know I shouldn't have used radweld so please no need to tell me I shouldn't have done this etc etc. I'm simply amazed they are still aloud to sell that garbage.



Anyway so I had a small leak thought some Radweld was an easy fix. Put it in yesterday drove on the engine for 20 mins or so and all seemed fine. Been out today and no heating, not on electric not when the ice was running. Turned the heating up to high and it says the heater isn't on most of the time then it will come on for a few seconds before going back off again.



Fairly sure the radweld had clogged up my heater so few questions:



I usually drive on 95% electric with the heating off, am I OK leaving it as is for now? Not going anywhere much at the moment as working from home due to lock down or do I need to get the coolant changed ASAP?

If the coolant needs changing is it an easy job?

If the heater core needs replacing where is it and can it be changed without too much bother?



Once again I realise I've not done the right thing please don't reply just to tell me I'm an idiot I know I am. Your help is appreciated
Before spending a ton of money, would it not be worth a punt at getting the dealer to fill the system with the vacuum required? If you do just have an air block this would be the cheapest fix, no?
I know this is more complex than a normal ICE car, but I can't see the Radweld causing an issue unless it is exposed to air, perhaps at an air lock in your system. The dealer vacuum may remove the block.
Just a thought, good luck.

I just replaced the cabin pump last week, and refilled the system without a vacuum, and both engine and electrical heating are working well.
 
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