FWIW I recommend using a granny EVSE at the lowest current possible, ideally 6A. I've used a good quality one for 5 years, and it's just finally gone bang on me. There's no ventilation inside these, so internal heat build-up is their big enemy imho. Mine finally failed when I set it to 13A (it's rated for 16!) and the mains input spade connector on PCB failed & burnt out. It's done 13A before ok. The resulting mains short blew the pcb to bits, and sent a pulse down the CP low-voltage control line which I think has upset my car's internal charger controller module ($300 for a new one). I'm now getting reliable 6A charge on a new granny EVSE; my wall EVSE gets a few secs of charging, then car whinges about voltage on CP line out-of-spec, then it restarts charging for a few secs, whinges, and that's continuing to cycle for some reason I don't yet understand. So I'll prob get a 2nd hand charger controller ($90 + import) & get that swapped in, needs computer dealer configging, as a test.
With my new granny EVSE (which I use a lot at it fits well with solar panel output for 8 months a year) I'm going to stick very hard to 6A max, to try as best I can to reduce thermal cycling. The more the temp changes inside, the more the solder joints to PCBs stretch & compress. Over time I suspect my joint suffered metal fatigue, and micro-cracks internal to the joint will have grown, and reduced the conductivity, so leading to greater heat & worse stretch-compress etc. I suspect this is what finally killed mine. So after 3 years I'll have the new one apart and resolder all those potentially-wearing-out high-current joints inside. No prob for me as a tecchy. Not so easy for Joe Public. So be aware, these things do wear out, they're not infinite-life, and the less-hard they're stressed & loaded, the longer they'll last.
