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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Help!

When I switch on the ignition in my iOn / iMiEV, I get an Engine warning light and a loud continuous beep until I switch it off.

I plugged in my ODB dongle (not compatible with Canion unfortunately), ran the Car Scanner app, and got the error code: P1A4C

GOOG gave me this:


Display on M.U.T.-IIIItem No.Inspection itemInspection conditionsValue to be determined as normalCode No. or inspection procedure No.Reference page
OR power supply voltage
29​
BMU control power supply voltageElectric motor switch: ONVoltage lower than battery power supply by approximately 1 VCode No. P1A4C


So what is wrong?

(Just for history purposes, this is the white 2011 iOn sold to me by G.A.R.Y. about a year ago... Not blaming him tho :) )
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's it??

OK... Will do.

Shouldn't that charge when I charge the main battery? or when does it charge?
 

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Nissan LEAF30
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It charges when the car is switched on or charging. But all 12v batteries have a limited life, particularly those in EVs where they run so many ancillaries. How old is your 12v battery - it will have a manufacturing date on it and if it is more than 3 years old then it isn't unusual to have to replace it. If it is as old as the car then its done incredibly well.
The current lack of use/short journeys due to Covid and the cold weather are finished many 12v batteries off, and at least 50% of issues on this board seem to be due to them. The only good news is that replacing them is relatively cheap compared to other repairs.
 

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Yeah, I changed the battery in the czero a while back as it was not starting as you would expect.

Also changed the battery in the diesel recently. Found out that my jump leads were knackered then, lol.

All good fun!
 

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richi.uk
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That's it??
Yes, it's a common problem with EVs, because you don't get the early warning of slow cranking like you do in ICE cars.

12V batteries don't last forever. I replaced mine with amzn.to/2ISvmck which is only £44 delivered. Or there's a higher capacity version for £64: amzn.to/2Wk0qov

Shouldn't that charge when I charge the main battery? or when does it charge?
It certainly charges when you see the green READY. I've heard conflicting answers about whether it charges at the same time as the main battery.

[SWMBO's dog-rescue charity receives a small kickback from link, at no cost to you—reg#1186687]
 

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Hi - my iMiEV has just bricked itself and the warning light is the one that looks like a car outline with an exclamation mark. Is that the one you call the 'engine warning light'? I don't have the beep, just silence when I turn the key to try to turn on the car.

FYI the car has been almost unused since March. I charged the 12v battery last week and have only driven about 3 miles since then. I have just driven to a charger in a supermarket car park and tried to charge but got the warning light (the one like an exclamation mark in the middle of a car outline). I was just about to drive to an adjacent charge point but could not do so.

Anyone have an idea about what might be wrong?

Thanks!
 

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richi.uk
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Seeing as you said you charged it, I'm guessing it needed charging 😷 so that's probably weakened it to the point where it's not holding a charge. That's not surprising if you have the original 12V auxiliary battery.

See my reply above with two suggested replacements.

edit: autocorrect
 

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Seeing as you said you charged it, I'm guessing it needed charging 😷 so that's probably weekend it to the point where it's not holding a charge. That's not surprising if you have the original 12V auxiliary battery.

See my reply above with two suggested replacements.
I've just taken the 12v battery out - it was only 12.34v - and charged it up until the charger light indicated that the battery was full. It was 12.83v at that point. But when I installed it back in the car I'm still getting the warning light. I don't know how long I can leave it in the supermarket car park. The charger bay it is in has a broken charger (it turns out) so I'm not blocking anyone from charging, but in theory the car park has a 2 hour limit ....

I will see how quickly I can get a replacement battery. This is not a good time of year for speedy delivery!
 

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2021 Hyundai Kona Ultimate 64kWh
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I will see how quickly I can get a replacement battery. This is not a good time of year for speedy delivery!
Euro Car Parts is your friend. They do same day delivery (and there's a promo code FROSTY80 for up to 45% off items)

Amazon Prime Now sometimes stock them too. Otherwise maybe a trip out involving an Uber to your local Halfords? There's definitely still ways of getting one quickly, even if the regular delivery services are crippled at the moment.

but in theory the car park has a 2 hour limit ....
Did you check for ANPR cameras at the entrance to the car park? If there's none you'll hopefully get away with it. Giving a warning to the supermarket staff may have been wise though. They sometimes have ways of making a note of your licence plate to ensure you don't get charged.
 

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charged it up until the charger light indicated that the battery was full. It was 12.83v at that point.
So it's dead. You should be able to jump start it from another car to move it. If you are in a rush then take tools with you to somewhere that has the battery in stock and change it there.
 

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Hi - my iMiEV has just bricked itself and the warning light is the one that looks like a car outline with an exclamation mark. Is that the one you call the 'engine warning light'? I don't have the beep, just silence when I turn the key to try to turn on the car.

FYI the car has been almost unused since March. I charged the 12v battery last week and have only driven about 3 miles since then. I have just driven to a charger in a supermarket car park and tried to charge but got the warning light (the one like an exclamation mark in the middle of a car outline). I was just about to drive to an adjacent charge point but could not do so.

Anyone have an idea about what might be wrong?

Thanks!
A few people have given you some good advice already maybe it needs repeating. ....replace the 12v auxiliary battery with a new one, erase the fault codes and take it from there.
 

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I've just taken the 12v battery out - it was only 12.34v - and charged it up until the charger light indicated that the battery was full. It was 12.83v at that point. But when I installed it back in the car I'm still getting the warning light. I don't know how long I can leave it in the supermarket car park. The charger bay it is in has a broken charger (it turns out) so I'm not blocking anyone from charging, but in theory the car park has a 2 hour limit ....

I will see how quickly I can get a replacement battery. This is not a good time of year for speedy delivery!
HobDrive App can be used to erase the fault code, then try restarting.
 

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Update: I bought a new battery but it didn't make any difference. Still get the warning light. So I have booked a flat bed truck for 9am on Monday morning.

FYI I have notified the car park staff that the car has broken down and they have said it is OK to leave it there until Monday. They don't have ANPR but you have to get a ticket to enter the car park and can only get out after getting the ticket scanned at the check out (so long as you have spent more than £10). I know the system and the people well because it is where I do all my charging.
 

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Update: I bought a new battery but it didn't make any difference. Still get the warning light. So I have booked a flat bed truck for 9am on Monday morning.

FYI I have notified the car park staff that the car has broken down and they have said it is OK to leave it there until Monday. They don't have ANPR but you have to get a ticket to enter the car park and can only get out after getting the ticket scanned at the check out (so long as you have spent more than £10). I know the system and the people well because it is where I do all my charging.
Hi,

Whereabouts are you based? If its more than the 12v battery it can be caused by a few things but needs diagnosing.

Cheers.
 

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Hi,

Whereabouts are you based? If its more than the 12v battery it can be caused by a few things but needs diagnosing.

Cheers.
Is it not the case that the DTC needs clearing, after the 12v battery has been charged or replaced?
 

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Is it not the case that the DTC needs clearing, after the 12v battery has been charged or replaced?
If the error is resolved it should clear itself - in the case of a failing 12v battery you get random errors logged and charging or replacing the battery should sort it out. Very few errors refuse to clear, things like airbags being temporarily disconnected are one which need to be actively cleared.

Cheers.
 

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Update 23-Dec-20: just had a call from the local Mitsubishi dealer. My iMiEV won't take a charge and as soon as the error codes are cleared they come back again. The plan is to check all the traction battery fuses but that won't happen now until after Christmas. "Luckily" London is under Tier 4 lockdown and I'm walking distance from shops so I can live without the car easily enough.
 

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Update 23-Dec-20: just had a call from the local Mitsubishi dealer. My iMiEV won't take a charge and as soon as the error codes are cleared they come back again. The plan is to check all the traction battery fuses but that won't happen now until after Christmas. "Luckily" London is under Tier 4 lockdown and I'm walking distance from shops so I can live without the car easily enough.
Find out what the actual error codes are, then we can advise you further.

Cheers.
 

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The good news is that I have got the error codes:
B1476 - IG1(A) voltage extraordinary low
B1477 - IG(B) voltage extraordinary low
B1551 - SRS alarm Lamp harness open
B1065 - Air outlet changeover DMPR motor
U1111 - Display CAN timeout/Not equipped
U1901 - Loss of BMU message (K-line)
P0560 - 12V control voltage fail (MCU)
P1AF4 - Control power supply VOLT (BMU)
P1AF6 - On board charging time over
P1A4C - OR line voltage
B1108 - Electric heater fail 1
04 - Control voltage
36 - Rectifier circuit part fail

The Mitsu dealer says that they have identified that the problem is that the 'EV Water PTC Heater' has failed internally.

The bad news is that the repair parts are £1,328.15 and labour will be £280; add the 20% VAT (sales tax) of £321.63 and the grand total comes to ....

£1,929.78.

And I need an MOT (= annual inspection) at £54.85 ....

Almost £2k!! (about US$2,700)

Given that I bought the car in 2016 the question is:
Would I buy my Tamashii spec iMiEV (= lovely leather seats) for £2k? Yes!

Does anyone have any comments? Does it look like the dealer has correctly diagnosed the problem?

Thanks so much to all who have responded. Much appreciated.
 
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