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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is what I'd like to have had available in an easy-to-find place when I was buying a used Leaf...
Feel free to suggest changes, I'd like to think this could end up as a sticky, and be of use to someone...

UK Leaf used FAQ

Is the battery leased or owned? Phone the financers, RCI, to be sure. A leased battery requires monthly payments to the finance company. The battery can now be bought from RCI.

How to spot a Gen 1/Gen2 car?

Gen(eration) 1 cars were made in Japan, Gen 2 cars were made in the UK from 2013- but there was an overlap.

Tell-tales of Gen 2 are the “Eco” button on steering wheel; a dark coloured interior; and a flatter boot space. Gen 2 cars have a footbrake pedal whereas Gen 1 have a brake button in the centre console. Gen 1 cars have the charger mounted in a hump at the front of the boot floor. Gen2 are considered more desirable, as they have a heat pump cabin heater that needs less battery power than the resistive heater in Gen 1, so reducing the range penalty of heating the cabin. Regen braking power was increased to 30kW which can also extend range, and gives almost one-pedal driving. Nissan also simplified the parking brake mechanism and integrated all the charging and invertor electrics within the “engine block”.

Why would I need 6.6kW charging? 6kW charging is an option when new and can’t be retro-fitted. If you imagine using the car for long journeys during the day and need to charge to full in less than 4 hours for more long trips that day, then you may find it useful. On the other hand, if you drive for less than 80 miles in any one day and can charge overnight at 3kW, then it’s less useful. Why pay extra for something you may not need.

NB 6.6kW charging at home requires a dedicated 32 amp circuit, and you should be sure that you won’t exceed the house fuse with all other loads on. For example an induction hob and double oven on together with car charging could take you close to the rating of your house fuse!

How to spot 3.3kW or 6.6kW charger? Dash charge time display; a sticker on LHS of motor block as you look at it. NOT “3 orange leads”.

What leads do I need? The car may come with a “brick” or “granny charger” which is a 240 volt 10 amp slow charger; or a lead to connect to a 16A or 32A “type 2” charge point. You need to provide a lead to connect your car to the Type 2 charger socket!

Almost all UK cars have a quick DC charger “CHAdeMO” socket to charge in 30 mins; the plug for these is integral to the charger, just like a petrol pump. Chademo chargers are commonly found at motorway services. (The original Visia model did not have rapid DC charging as standard).

Battery capacity indicator: 15% for bar 1 and approx. 6% per bar thereafter.

Bad for battery life:

Heat - from high ambient temperature and/or consecutive rapid charging sessions

Charging at High rates and discharging at high rates is, in theory, damaging to Li-ion batteries, however this appears to be a minor consideration in the UK climate.

Aggressive driving, especially at low charge (some individual cells will suffer more than others)

Hold at 100% charge for days

Age!


Good for battery life:

Cool temperatures

Minimise time at 100%, eg use timer-charge to have 100% when you need it, with a minimal hold time.

Charge to 80% when you don’t need the full range as it should extend the battery life

Store at 40-60% ideally, with car unplugged from charger.



The 12 Volt battery

There is a conventional 12 volt battery under the bonnet! Known to go flat and symptom is a dead car even though the main Li-ion battery is charged! Don’t leave the main charger plugged in for extended periods as it can run flat. Unlike some other EV’s, don’t store the Leaf plugged-in.

Some advise charging the 12V once a month, using a regular car battery charger or “smart” charger. As a minimum, keep an eye on the 12V voltage using a multimeter or other means, below 12.0V is cause for concern.


Carwings telematics issues:
If the car symbol is grey with a line through, then the TCU needs activating.

If you are buying a LEAF get the car's Vin (you now also need the motor code number for the new Nissan Connect EV 30kWh) and register asap and always ensure on handover that the Carwings\Nissan Connect EV is functioning 100% as well as your mobile phone app. If second hand then ensure that the previous owner has deactivated the car associated to their Carwings account or get the salesperson to do this otherwise you'll need to call the helpline and prove to them that you are now the new owner before you can register that car.
For Carwings there are three requirements. Your registered email address, UserID, Password.
The Carwings security settings in the car needs your created UserID and Password to enable connection.
To access your online account, the Username is your email address using the same Password.

The new Nissan Connect EV using the Vin and motor # needs no further car data entry.
NissanConnectEV Quick_Start_Guide

References to any books or e-books for background, eg Michael Boxwell’s

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Car-Guide-Nissan-LEAF/dp/1907670483


The origin of a “GID”?

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/16/automobiles/nissan-leafs-true-believers-wont-leave-well-enough-alone.html?_r=1
 

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All UK cars have a quick charger “Chademo” socket to charge in 30 mins
Technically not true as the original Visia model did not have the CHAdeMO, it was an option at £500 but quickly changed to standard.

Gen 1 cars had some electrics in a hump at the front of the boot floor
This was the actual on-board charger.

Charging at High rates and discharging at high rates
This subject has many differing opinions and results show that the batteries have fared much better than anyone thought.

Carwings issues, if yours won’t connect, get a dealer to perform a “head unit reset”
This is known as the TCU, Telematic Control Unit.

If the car symbol is grey with a line through then the TCU needs activating.

If you are buying a LEAF get the car's Vin (you now also need the motor code number for the new Nissan Connect EV 30kWh) and register asap and always ensure on handover that the Carwings\Nissan Connect EV is functioning 100% as well as your mobile phone app. If second hand then ensure that the previous owner has deactivated the car associated to their Carwings account or get the salesperson to do this otherwise you'll need to call the helpline and prove to them that you are now the new owner before you can register that car.
For Carwings there are three requirements. Your registered email address, UserID, Password.
The Carwings security settings in the car needs your created UserID and Password to enable connection.
To access your online account, the Username is your email address using the same Password.

The new Nissan Connect EV using the Vin and motor # needs no further car data entry.
NissanConnectEV Quick_Start_Guide
 

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is there any truth in the idea if your leaving it parked for long periods of time its worth getting one with the solar panel to trickle charge the 12v?

might be worth a mention if it's true for low usage drivers?
 

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I never saw any difference between solar panel and non-solar panel so I suspect it's a tad mythical.

Regarding Gen1/Gen2 differences. You can add explicitly the footbrake on Gen2 versus the electrically operated parking brake switch in front of the centre armrest on the Gen 1

Also Gen1 had a manual release of the charging flap using a lever by your knee, much like a bonnet release. Gen 2 has an electric release using a button (alongside the traction control etc. buttons) and thus also has a button the keyfob to open the charging port.

Gen 2 has a light under the charging flap, Gen 1 does not.

Finally, there were I believe some Visia models (i.e. Gen2) which had resistive heater. The resistive heater takes about 11 miles of range from the car, while the heat-pump takes 3-4. It's worthwhile, but not magic :)
 

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When explaining leads you need to say what plugs are on both ends. I don't think they all have the same plugs?

Careful with the term "battery life" - that tends to mean how long until it's empty, i.e. range in this context.
 

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An HPI check will tell you if the battery is freehold or leased (I contacted HPI a while ago to ask if this would come up on a check).
 

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Warranty information would be a well-deserved addition, especially for those looking at a used Leaf. I had a hard time finding the details of the battery warranties from Nissan. In particular, was the warranty valid on EVs not certified pre-owned by Nissan. Although a Nissan dealership told me otherwise - and then instructed me to go buy a Volt, no less - the answer turns out to be yes.
 

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"Finally, there were I believe some Visia models (i.e. Gen2) which had resistive heater. The resistive heater takes about 11 miles of range from the car, while the heat-pump takes 3-4. It's worthwhile, but not magic "

How does one identify the resistive heater on Visia Gen 2, please
 

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Not sure to be honest - turn on the heating and see what the predicted range drop is on the centre console "energy information" display. I don't know of any visible way to see it under the bonnet or whatever.
 
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