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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I've ordered a Model 3 LR and really looking forward to getting the car but having a bit of a headache around how i go about organising the PodPoint install that comes as part of my Lease agreement.

So - I have a consumer unit in the garage linked to the main consumer unit via 16mm armoured cable rated at 60A. I have a 40A fuse ready and waiting for dedicated use for the charge point. I'm therefore planning on getting the charge point installed inside the garage.

So the issue comes with my desire to be able to charge the car whether I'm inside or outside of the garage. The best solution is to put in an untethered charger and swap the charge cable around depending on whether I want to charge inside or outside. As its a sectional garage I have no way to get a full type 2 cable routed inside to out (the only gap is the areas between the concrete and roof which is only wide enough for the cable) so I identified that ideally the cable routed outside would use an untethered cable and the charge point side would have a plug crimped on.

I did think about lifting the roof but thats going to end up ruining the fibre cement panels so I've ruled it out.

So my question is around getting someone to make up a cable professionally on-site. Will I be able to get hold of someone to do this as so far all I've had is electricians telling me they wont do it / its not possible mate as they are made up in the factory.

Any guidance / advise or alternatives very welcome. Thanks foe reading.
 

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Why can't you just core drill through the concrete panels? Easy enough job, diamond core will do that in no time. I'd be inclined to use a 110mm diamond core, then just make up a short sleeve using a bit of 110mm solvent weld soil pipe, cut the flanges of a 110mm solvent weld fitting to secure the sleeve in the hole and use a push-fit blanking plug to close the hole off when not in use. Probably no more than an hours work to do. Just needs a hefty SDS drill and you can hire a 110mm diamond core drill easily enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not keen to do this at all - you aren't meant to drill through concrete panels and I've avoided this at all costs. For a hole this size you would be ripping through the steel reinforcement etc and risk cracking the whole panel.

All concrete sectional garage manufacturers tell you not to drill holes in the concrete hence why I'm kind of stuck at this point.
 

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All I can say is that I've done it a couple of times with no issues. No other easy way to get power in to existing sectional concrete garages usually. If you're fussed about the structural integrity then just get a steel fabricator to knock up a flanged liner to bond into the hole and more than restore the tiny amount of strength lost. Worth remembering that 99% of the stress in these panels is at the edges, and that next to sod all is in the centre. That's why we are allowed to cut big holes in the middle of joists, as it doesn't make any significant difference to their strength.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm getting the distinct impression that making up type 2 cables on site isnt something that can be done :)

I think the a hole through the side of the garage may be better rather than the door as its electric - Its not unheard of for the button on the door to be triggered accidentally. That would be messy :D
 

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I'm getting the distinct impression that making up type 2 cables on site isnt something that can be done :)

I think the a hole through the side of the garage may be better rather than the door as its electric - Its not unheard of for the button on the door to be triggered accidentally. That would be messy :D

It can be done. I could do it for you, takes about half an hour to strip and prep the cable and crimp the terminals. Best to just buy a pigtail cable and a connector, that way there's less waste. Lots of people sell pigtail cables and connectors. There are other options, too, like using a suitable slimline connector to join the cable, or even just use something like a slim wiska box and some wagos to join the cable, or a cable splice. No different to any other cable splice. Our borehole pump has a cable splice that sits immersed 20m down in water. Takes about half an hour to make off a splice like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It can be done. I could do it for you, takes about half an hour to strip and prep the cable and crimp the terminals. Best to just buy a pigtail cable and a connector, that way there's less waste. Lots of people sell pigtail cables and connectors. There are other options, too, like using a suitable slimline connector to join the cable, or even just use something like a slim wiska box and some wagos to join the cable, or a cable splice. No different to any other cable splice. Our borehole pump has a cable splice that sits immersed 20m down in water. Takes about half an hour to make off a splice like that.
I'd get you into do it in a heartbeat but suspect the fact that I'm in the central belt in Scotland would likely cause an issue. I'd likely normally tackle the cable work myself I'm just very conscious of the insurance and certification angle - the voltages involved are very high hence why I was reaching out locally to try and get a suitably competent / qualified individual to do the work - which i'm finding hard to do.
 

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Thousands of people have just cut a cable sized notch into the doorframe near to the bottom with a thin swivel plate cover to retain the cable in there whenever it needs to be routed outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thousands of people have just cut a cable sized notch into the doorframe near to the bottom with a thin swivel plate cover to retain the cable in there whenever it needs to be routed outside.
I'd certainly take a look at this if its something that takes the cable away from the door itself - can these covers be purchased or is it something I'd have to make up?
 

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I'd certainly take a look at this if its something that takes the cable away from the door itself - can these covers be purchased or is it something I'd have to make up?
As each situation is different then the cover can literally be anything DIY. It just needs a single screw fixing above the doorframe slot, with washers to allow free movement so that it can swing aside to allow the cable to be fitted in there and then is sturdy enough to stop it slipping out. Anything suitable that can be cut from thick plastic or thin ally will do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As each situation is different then the cover can literally be anything DIY. It just needs a single screw fixing above the doorframe slot, with washers to allow free movement so that it can swing aside to allow the cable to be fitted in there and then is sturdy enough to stop it slipping out. Anything suitable that can be cut from sturdy plastic or thin ally will do.
This does sound like the easiest and simplest solution - thanks for this I'll look into this a bit more. It will allow me to move to a 7.5m tethered cable on the pod point if i can get it to work so could also be a lot cheaper. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here is the area where any notch would need to be created - the area to cut into would most likely be where the 2 uppermost rivet marks. I guess the only concern would be that I'd be opening up the entire side of the garage door frame to the elements once I cut into here - not just at the front but also on the sides.

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If it were me, then I'd make up a fixed Type 2 socket on a small enclosure to go on the wall of the garage, drill a small (20mm for a bit of conduit) hole through the wall (a 20mm hole is going to be fine structurally) and then make up a cable inside the garage that has a bit of charge cable flex and a Type 2 plug, that can plug into the charge point.

This would give two options, either connect the charge lead directly from the charge point to the car, using a standard Type 2 to Type 2 lead, when the car is garaged, or connect the internal cable to the charge point and use the standard Type 2 to Type 2 lead outside the garage, plugged into the socket on the small box.

Very easy to set up, and should be just as easy to use. Could also look pretty neat and tidy, too. All the parts are readily available off-the-shelf, and the extension cable to the externally mounted fixed Type 2 socket could be installed by someone other than the charge point installer, if installers are being a bit arsey about doing something different.
 

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What about drilling/digging out a small cable run underneath the garage door - i.e. in the concrete floor?
Here is the area where any notch would need to be created - the area to cut into would most likely be where the 2 uppermost rivet marks. I guess the only concern would be that I'd be opening up the entire side of the garage door frame to the elements once I cut into here - not just at the front but also on the sides.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If it were me, then I'd make up a fixed Type 2 socket on a small enclosure to go on the wall of the garage, drill a small (20mm for a bit of conduit) hole through the wall (a 20mm hole is going to be fine structurally) and then make up a cable inside the garage that has a bit of charge cable flex and a Type 2 plug, that can plug into the charge point.

This would give two options, either connect the charge lead directly from the charge point to the car, using a standard Type 2 to Type 2 lead, when the car is garaged, or connect the internal cable to the charge point and use the standard Type 2 to Type 2 lead outside the garage, plugged into the socket on the small box.

Very easy to set up, and should be just as easy to use. Could also look pretty neat and tidy, too. All the parts are readily available off-the-shelf, and the extension cable to the externally mounted fixed Type 2 socket could be installed by someone other than the charge point installer, if installers are being a bit arsey about doing something different.
Ok this sounds fantastic but I'm sure no one around here is going to help with this at all if I'm honest. Not sure if its my area or not but thus far if its not a quick and easy charge point install it seems no one is interested.

Your suggestion really isnt a million miles away from what was my original thought - I had planned to put up some wooden supports and fix a holster down the side of the garage (narrow gap in the picture) where the cable was routed between the roof and concrete section. Yours is neater though :)

If I was going to attempt I'm assuming I'd just use a normal tethered type 2 cable but what would the box consist of and generally speaking I'm guessing extensions work as I keep being told that type 2 cable extension DONT work lol :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What about drilling/digging out a small cable run underneath the garage door - i.e. in the concrete floor?
Alas the wind often pushes water into the door (I'm in Scotland!) so putting a trench in here would literally guarantee that the garage floor would be swimming in bad weather. I did give this some thought and thanks for the suggestion.
 

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I'd buy a non working charger from ebay for a few pounds and mount outside the garage. I'd rip out the insides, and wire the socket in parallel with the one inside the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I guess drilling a hole through the door frame would work equally well but we're back to mounting and wiring a box. Might work better than drilling through concrete
 

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Ok this sounds fantastic but I'm sure no one around here is going to help with this at all if I'm honest. Not sure if its my area or not but thus far if its not a quick and easy charge point install it seems no one is interested.

Your suggestion really isnt a million miles away from what was my original thought - I had planned to put up some wooden supports and fix a holster down the side of the garage (narrow gap in the picture) where the cable was routed between the roof and concrete section. Yours is neater though :)

If I was going to attempt I'm assuming I'd just use a normal tethered type 2 cable but what would the box consist of and generally speaking I'm guessing extensions work as I keep being told that type 2 cable extension DONT work lol :D

Extensions don't work, as the free socket connector is different from the fixed socket connector, deliberately so, to prevent daisy chaining leads together. This place (amongst others) sells all the parts needed to do this, except a box for the fixed socket (easy to get one of those from any electrical wholesaler, pretty cheaply):

Re-wireable 32 A fixed socket (doesn't use crimped terminals): https://evconnectors.com/Type-2-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Cables-and-Sockets?product_id=135

32 A free plug : https://evconnectors.com/Type-2-Ele...and-Sockets/62196-2-32A-Male-EV-Charging-Plug
The plug listed above can be supplied with up to 5m of cable attached, and this can be terminated to the fixed socket without a crimp tool, as this particular socket has screw terminals.
 
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