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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I have an installation booked in two weeks time to install a EO Mini Pro 2. As part of the installation I was asked to give the rating of the main fuse - I found a black box on the neutral wire going into my meter which said 100A on it so I assumed that was it and gave that. However after doing a bit more research I think that what I thought was the fuse is actually a henley block and the fuse is actually the other black box in line with the live wire. Unfortunately this doesn't have any markings on it at all so I have no idea what rating it is.

Am I correct? If so I presume I have to get the DNO (SSE) out to have a look and upgrade if required?

Thanks!

142855


142854
 

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You are correct, the fuse holder is on the left. Your tails look big enough for 100A but only the DNO knows what's in the fuse holder.
Your DNO don't need to attend to know the fuse rating, call them with your MPN and they'll tell you. If it's not 100A ask them to come and uprate it as you need a higher value for your EV. They should do it quickly and for free unless they can demonstrate why not and then you can haggle about cost.
Also get them to fit an isolator switch, they should do this at low cost if they are out to change the fuse and it makes life much simpler and safer.
 

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You are correct, the fuse holder is on the left. Your tails look big enough for 100A but only the DNO knows what's in the fuse holder.
Your DNO don't need to attend to know the fuse rating, call them with your MPN and they'll tell you. If it's not 100A ask them to come and uprate it as you need a higher value for your EV. They should do it quickly and for free unless they can demonstrate why not and then you can haggle about cost.
Also get them to fit an isolator switch, they should do this at low cost if they are out to change the fuse and it makes life much simpler and safer.
Just to add to previous post, the DNO may not actually have a record of the installed fuse rating. The probable age of this installation would suggest that a visit by the DNO to check the CONDITION and rating of the Fuse is in order. Instigate this by getting in contact with SSE and requesting an upgrade to 100A. The rest will follow.
 

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That Smart meter looks like it was only installed 10 days ago. They must have pulled the fuse when it was installed. Perhaps try and get in touch with the contractor who did the installation and see if they have a record as it should have been noted on their worksheet.
 

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They must have pulled the fuse when it was installed.
Good spot on the date, but there's no need to pull the fuse when it's downstream of the meter. Having said that the seal does look very new .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone, I'm glad I double checked! I'll get in touch with the SSE on Tuesday when they reopen and see what they say. Sounds like an isolator switch is a good idea so i'll get them out anyway to do that. Hopefully they can do it before the charger is due to go in.

That Smart meter looks like it was only installed 10 days ago. They must have pulled the fuse when it was installed. Perhaps try and get in touch with the contractor who did the installation and see if they have a record as it should have been noted on their worksheet.
Yes was only just put in so we could switch over to Octopus Go. I have no idea if they pulled the fuse or not as it was my wife who was in. Her main concern was that she couldn't offer them a brew because the power was off!
 

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Good spot on the date, but there's no need to pull the fuse when it's downstream of the meter. Having said that the seal does look very new .....
they do to do the work... they have just installed a new meter and added a henley block. They are brand new seals on both the fuse and the henley block.

The DNO should have the fuse size noted on the system or the job sheet of the contractor - who would have to submit the test and inspect sheet, which has the fuse info on it.
 

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Good spot on the date, but there's no need to pull the fuse when it's downstream of the meter. Having said that the seal does look very new .....
I'm not an electrician but I think you'll find that the fuse is always before the meter. In the photos it looks like the mains cables into the property are the two brown cables in the top right. One is the Line which goes into the fuse holder qand the other is the Neutral which goes into the Henley block and then becomes blue and then both cables go into the meter.

The red and black are the Line and Neutral coming out of the meter to consumer unit.

In this case, the smart meter installer must have removed the fuse and if they have, they should have recorded that on their completion paperwork which in this case will have been notified to the DNO and possibly Octopus.

An isolator will have to go on the black and red cables between the meter and the consumer unit.
 

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I'm not an electrician
Makes two of us. But you are correct, I mixed up my streams! Presumably the consumer unit is out of shot to the left of the pictures.
It's a pity that the OP missed the opportunity to get the meter installer to fit the isolation switch.
 

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Makes two of us. But you are correct, I mixed up my streams! Presumably the consumer unit is out of shot to the left of the pictures.
It's a pity that the OP missed the opportunity to get the meter installer to fit the isolation switch.
Not really an issue for the OP, but is there a separate Cable Service Head somewhere out of the picture? Current DNO approved 1kV supply cables look a little different. Is it at the end of a looped supply. Once again DNO should be able to resolve and asking for a 100A fuse will flush out any anomalies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not really an issue for the OP, but is there a separate Cable Service Head somewhere out of the picture? Current DNO approved 1kV supply cables look a little different. Is it at the end of a looped supply. Once again DNO should be able to resolve and asking for a 100A fuse will flush out any anomalies.
So the supply is via overhead cables strung between two sets of semi-detached houses - we're the third house along. From what I can tell four cables start our bundled together, then one cable splits off as it gets to each house which wouldn't make this a looped supply (I think!). There isn't another service head as the cable enters the wall on the other side of the right hand wall pictured and comes out as the two tails.

The meter and consumer unit are in a rather awkward position as the meter is now on an internal wall in the middle of the house. I think that it would originally have been on the back wall of the kitchen but an extension was built stranding it high on the wall in the now dining room. Not 100% sure how they're going to route the cable but Its probably not going to be straightforward and will probably have to involve pulling the carpet up in the bedroom above.
 

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So the supply is via overhead cables strung between two sets of semi-detached houses - we're the third house along. From what I can tell four cables start our bundled together, then one cable splits off as it gets to each house which wouldn't make this a looped supply (I think!). There isn't another service head as the cable enters the wall on the other side of the right hand wall pictured and comes out as the two tails.

The meter and consumer unit are in a rather awkward position as the meter is now on an internal wall in the middle of the house. I think that it would originally have been on the back wall of the kitchen but an extension was built stranding it high on the wall in the now dining room. Not 100% sure how they're going to route the cable but Its probably not going to be straightforward and will probably have to involve pulling the carpet up in the bedroom above.
Definitely get the DNO involved.
 

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So the supply is via overhead cables strung between two sets of semi-detached houses - we're the third house along. From what I can tell four cables start our bundled together, then one cable splits off as it gets to each house which wouldn't make this a looped supply (I think!). There isn't another service head as the cable enters the wall on the other side of the right hand wall pictured and comes out as the two tails.
A street is supplied with 3 phase supply. They alternate the houses so each house gets one of the phases. It is all to do with how power is generated, and how it is balanced from the substation.

There are situations where houses share the same phase feed... this isnt a problem but it does limit you as they cable may only be rated at 120A and so you each have a max of 60A... this means they need to split the supply and give you an new supply. Its expensive unless the supplier deem it their responsibility to address this.

The other thing to consider EV chargers like the Zappi can have a CT clamp around the supply and you can cap the incomming current so you never overload the fuse... eg you might set it at 85A even with a 100A fuse.

I know my peak demand without charging is never over 25A so even charging with 32A Im still under 60A.
 

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I was lucky with my BP Pulse charger installation, as I’d recently (2 years ago) had the house rewired and SSE fitted a new meter and upgraded the head unit and fitted a 100 amp fuse at the same time, all FOC.
Wish I’d known then to get an isolation switch fitted

This January, we decided that our new MOTABILITY car was going to be a Kia Soul EV so ordered one from Kia dealer and MOTABILITY contacted BP Pulse to do the installation.
BP Pulse (through their electrical fitting agent) fitted a 100Amp Double Pole isolator switch FOC (because of the nightmare problems I’d had with BP Pulse) then last week BP Pulse fitted the charger unit and associated RCD Box etc. No requirement for Earth Rods to be fitted now, thanks to the RCD box they fit.
They wouldn’t fit the charger unit until the isolator switch had been fitted, as they won’t now just pull the fuse on the head unit, but insist on the power to be properly disconnected before they will work on the CU.
Just got to wait a couple of weeks for the car to be delivered. 🤗
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Had a very unhelpful reply from the DNO

Thank you for your email.

Unfortunately we do not hold records for the fuse ratings that are installed; your electrician should be able to advise you of this.

If your electrician holds the appropriate accreditation, he can break the seal on the cutout fuse carrier to inspect the fuses themselves and check their rating. They would then need to replace the seals when the works have been completed. Replacement seals can be obtained from the local depot; your electrician would need to show the appropriate accreditation to the staff there and replacement seals would be issued.

Kind regards,


Will have to get in touch with a local electrician to check! The installers themselves are coming on Tuesday so I wonder if they will check themselves.
 

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Had a very unhelpful reply from the DNO

Thank you for your email.

Unfortunately we do not hold records for the fuse ratings that are installed; your electrician should be able to advise you of this.

If your electrician holds the appropriate accreditation, he can break the seal on the cutout fuse carrier to inspect the fuses themselves and check their rating. They would then need to replace the seals when the works have been completed. Replacement seals can be obtained from the local depot; your electrician would need to show the appropriate accreditation to the staff there and replacement seals would be issued.

Kind regards,


Will have to get in touch with a local electrician to check! The installers themselves are coming on Tuesday so I wonder if they will check themselves.
I had the same. After being careful because its supposd to be DNO property, they didn’t seem bothered and just said the electrician could look. On the negative side if he found a 60A fuse he may refuse to finish the install which may add to the cost. But as I was having a Zappi installed which has a grid limit setting, I clarified with the installer they’d be able to continue and finish the install and set the Zappi to not pull more than 60A from the grid overall (including house load). And they’d open the fuse to let me know.

In the end it was an 80A fuse so he set it to 80A which I’m sure will be fine long term for us (we don’t have heavy electric usage) but I’ve contacted the DNO to request information about a 100A upgrade anyway
 
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SSE do seem relaxed about qualified electricians pulling cutout fuses. It is handy as had new CUs installed at two of my rental properties and didn't need them to come out. Chargemaster probably don't want liability if things break and some DNOs still won't allow them to pull.
 

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Yeah mine was SSE too. I don’t think they need to pull the fuse, just open the carrier
 
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