[Wilsons]

Hi

We really want a Mitsubishi outlander phev but before we can commit we need to ensure that we can charge at home.

As we do not have off street parking we seem to not qualify for a grant from olev.

Our parking situation is:

Our car parks at the bottom of our garden on a C road against our hedge. We always park there no-one else does. We park very closely to the hedge so no-one is able to walk on the road between our car and the hedge.

Can we appeal to the olev to ask them to consider awarding us a grant?

If we definitely cannot go down this route what are our options?

From everything we have read we could pay to have an external 13a output run from the house or rolec have given us a quote for a wall pod.

Any advice will be very welcome

Thank you

 

[UKTechie]

You have to have off street parking to qualify for grant.

 

[Webby]

For the power you need for mits I would think about a 13 amp supply. Anybody know the time difference 10amp to 16amp

 

[leave]

There's no flexibility in OLEV's rules. No off street parking - no grant. The Rolec wallpods are pretty expensive unless you can pick one up cheap on eBay.

I'd concrete a post into the ground, add a 13 amp socket with lockable cover. SWA cable run up the garden to the house, with a RCD/MCB into the main distribution board (fusebox).

All pretty simple stuff. Cost will vary depending how good you are at DIY.
If you can dig the hole, concrete in the post (use postfix - cement/sand/gravel in a bag), dig a trench back to the house and run the cable, a sparky can do the rest pretty cheaply.

 

[andrew*debbie]

A full charging station is just over £500 plus installation:

http://nuworldenergy.co.uk/shop/product/type-2-charging-station-untethered-32a-single-phase


I agree, for an Outlander charging overnight a 3-pin plug should do the trick.

 

[Wilsons]

We are probably going yo install one of these

http://www.naturalsparx.co.uk/product/2500511305/Rolec-WallPod-EV-Ready


Thank you for your replies

 

[Gazjen]

What about one of these and put the £40 saving towards the rest of the installation

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-nexus-...and Lighting&gclid=CMyYlauSlsACFSX4wgodfmgA8w

 

[John2]

I agree, for an Outlander charging overnight a 3-pin plug should do the trick.

Agreed, but I would suggest 16A if you are intending to charge at home in the daytime between journeys.

 

[PaulMorris]

We are probably going yo install one of these

http://www.naturalsparx.co.uk/product/2500511305/Rolec-WallPod-EV-Ready
Rolec-WallPod-EV-Ready

For the relatively modest incremental cost I'd consider installing uprated cable capable of taking 32A. If you've gone to the trouble of laying cable down to the bottom of the garden to an upgradeable Rolec wallpod you might as well future proof yourself for easy 16A or 32a upgrades

 

[leave]

That's interesting...
The price is great at £67.
BUT and it's a big one... in order to install 32amp insides you need the deeper wallpod.
Strangely the Technical sheet lists the depth as 142mm which I think is the deeper box,
but the spec sheet shows the much flatter wallpod - but says it can be upgraded to 32 amp, which I'm sure is incorrect.
As long as you get the one on the webpage you should be OK for later upgrades.

 

[Hilltop Dave]

Anybody know the time difference 10amp to 16amp

For my Leaf, I reckon 11% charge per hour using the 13A lead (10A), and 18% per hour using the Type 2 lead (15A). For charging on Economy 7 off-peak hours, this meant a max of 77% per night until I got the Type 2 socket installed.

 

[davebodger]

The Outlander PHEV takes about 3.5 hours max on a 16 amp feed, 5 hours max on 13 amp.
It actually draws about 15 amps from a 16 amp feed or about 10 amps from a 13 amp feed.
The thing to remember is you need all the "bits" to get 16 amps working, i.e. either a charge post/wall box plus type 1 cable or a Commando socket plus 16 amp EVSE.
The 13 amp EVSE that comes with the car works just fine overnight and doesn't cost any extra.

 

[Mercedes 350e]

It is possible in some areas to have your local authority install a charging point in the street near your home. Funding is still available but it may be an uphill struggle to persuade the local authority to install. Not only will the Treasurers dept have a view the parking department don't like designating a parking spot outside your house.

 

[Nye]

Hi,
I'm in a similar position- I will be charging my Outlander in the back lane behind our house, I think I'll accept that I'm not getting a grant for that, but can anyone recommend a charging unit brand? I will be (getting my electrician to ) run a spur from the 16A cooker circuit in some trunking to the back of the garden so the charging point needs to be totally weatherproof and ideally have some security on it, failing that I'll have an isolator installed in the house.
Many thanks for any and all advice!
Nye

 

[davebodger]

Hi,
I'm in a similar position- I will be charging my Outlander in the back lane behind our house, I think I'll accept that I'm not getting a grant for that, but can anyone recommend a charging unit brand? I will be (getting my electrician to ) run a spur from the 16A cooker circuit in some trunking to the back of the garden so the charging point needs to be totally weatherproof and ideally have some security on it, failing that I'll have an isolator installed in the house.
Many thanks for any and all advice!
Nye

IMHO not a good idea to spur a 14.5A load from a 16A cooker feed.
The first time you forget and turn the cooker on whilst charging the car, the MCB will trip.
Even if you decided to put in a 13A weatherproof socket to run the EVSE from, which only draws 10A, you would likely run into the same problem.
The car charging really needs to be on its own circuit breaker and ideally on its own RCD as well.
Having an isolator indoors is an excellent idea.
N.B. I am not a qualified electrician, so run it by yours first.

 

[arg]

The car charging really needs to be on its own circuit breaker

That much is a wiring regulations requirement (for an EV chargepoint, even if it's a 13A socket provided for charging purposes).

If you've got an existing circuit that was put in for a cooker but is no longer used and happens to be in a convenient place, then it's perfectly OK to re-purpose that existing wiring and extend it out to form your chargepoint circuit.

If it's a cooker circuit with a cooker still on it (or indeed any other kind of circuit that's still in use), then it's not OK to spur from that to supply a chargepoint.

If it's a high-capacity circuit that has in fact got spare capacity on it (say a traditional 32A cooker circuit that's only got a small hob on the end of it), then a theoretical possibility is to re-use that wiring as a submain and put a small consumer unit on the end, with separate breakers feeding the hob and the chargepoint. Finding space to do that may mean it's not a practical proposition.

 

[Nye]

Ok, the wiring part I will leave to the electrician now then!
Any thoughts on the best charger brand to install? My limited research so far has thrown up Rolec or the chargemaster.
As a newbie I'm sure there is already a thread discussiong this, but if someone could point me to it, I'd be really grateful.

 

[Electric Van Man]

You will be fine on a 13amp socket and use the 10amp lead.
With the 10amp slow charge lead, you will get approx 9 miles every hour.

 

[davebodger]

You will be fine on a 13amp socket and use the 10amp lead.
With the 10amp slow charge lead, you will get approx 9 miles every hour.

I find it's more like 7 miles per hour on the Outlander PHEV.
Rough rule of thumb - 1/4 battery per hour plus 1 hour at the end for "balancing" = 5 hours from "flat" (actually flat=30% mostly).

 

[Electric Van Man]

I find it's more like 7 miles per hour on the Outlander PHEV.
Rough rule of thumb - 1/4 battery per hour plus 1 hour at the end for "balancing" = 5 hours from "flat" (actually flat=30% mostly).

I was working from past use on a Nissan ENV200 & Renault Fluence ZE