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Kona64
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Discussion Starter #1
I have just read the Ohme post on power fluctuations but I have a Podpoint home unit installed today.

The car was at 65% soc, the inside car display shows it drinking at 6.7 / 6.8 kW. Even after 10-15mins.
I have seen it register 7.1 at a pod point at a supermarket, so am wondering if there is something I can ask the electrian to tinker when he comes back tomorrow to finish off some paperwork / internet connection.
I was expecting 7.2 --- correct?

He commented that he knew some cars throttle and he also wondered if it was because the unit was not yet fully registered to pod point, it was in default plug+play mode for when it can't see an internet.

There were no ovens /multiple kettles + iron turned on in the house at the time, which was something I guess it might have been, had that been the case.
 

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Kona64
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Discussion Starter #2
I should add yes I accept this is a first world problem....it's pushing out more than 3.6 ...........
 

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You really need to see the charging current. Wattage varies depending on supply voltage.

Things are rated with a nominal 230v. A "7" kw charge is usually 32A at 230v, which is ~7.4KW.

Some cars and/or chargers might only run at 30A, which is 6.9KW at 230v.

Typical UK mains voltage can be as high as 250v, but the current remains the same, so 32A at 250v means your charging at 8KW.

Some cars are calibrated to show power actually going into the battery, so its subtracted off whatever losses are present in the AC to DC conversion.
 

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Small voltage drop possible if you are placed far away from the local substation?
if its charging at 32A the voltage needs to get down to 212v to achieve 6.8kw... Clearly that isnt right.

A few google hits about the podpoint only running at 30A, which gives 226v, still low, but not as bad.
 

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NISSAN LEAF 62Kwh
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I have a NISSAN LEAF and a Pod Point, when charging the smart meter shows 6.7Kw's being drawn, the car a shows 6Kw's being received (confirmed by LeafSpy) - there is a 10% loss in the wiring and conversion, that's about as good as it gets with a Pod Point.
 

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Kona64
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Discussion Starter #8
I'll get the electrician to check what is coming out of the plug in volts / amps.
so if I have 225-226v coming out at 30amp then I need to ask why the volts drop given the cable run is only about 1.5metre ---- as the unit is basically mounted on the other side of the wall of the consumer unit.
 

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Kona64
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Discussion Starter #9
I have a NISSAN LEAF and a Pod Point, when charging the smart meter shows 6.7Kw's being drawn, the car a shows 6Kw's being received (confirmed by LeafSpy) - there is a 10% loss in the wiring and conversion, that's about as good as it gets with a Pod Point.
Thanks Dave
 

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I have just read the Ohme post on power fluctuations but I have a Podpoint home unit installed today.

The car was at 65% soc, the inside car display shows it drinking at 6.7 / 6.8 kW. Even after 10-15mins.
I have seen it register 7.1 at a pod point at a supermarket, so am wondering if there is something I can ask the electrian to tinker when he comes back tomorrow to finish off some paperwork / internet connection.
I was expecting 7.2 --- correct?

He commented that he knew some cars throttle and he also wondered if it was because the unit was not yet fully registered to pod point, it was in default plug+play mode for when it can't see an internet.

There were no ovens /multiple kettles + iron turned on in the house at the time, which was something I guess it might have been, had that been the case.
Mate, as soon as your post mentions throttling one realises that your so called electrical hasnt a foggy🤓
 

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Ioniq 38kwh 2020
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Best I've had at a supermarket podpoint was 6.6kW, I had 6.2kW recently at a Tesco podpoint one.
 

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Also, there may be variations in the mark-space ratio on the CP line out of the EVSE. The EVSE tells the car what's the max current it's allowed to draw, and this is infinitely variable from nominal 6A up to nominal 16A/32A/whatever the EVSE mfr or the owner has configured. The mark-space ratio varies in proportion to the desired current. I would not be surprised to find that different mfrs generate their mark-space ratios using different code/algorithms, maybe some are crystal controlled, maybe some aren't, and simply use the cheaper internal RC oscillator approximate clock built into many small cpus these days. Playing with the mark-space ratio into my Ampera, I was able to get it to charge at 5.5A, but no lower.
 

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I get 6.9Kw from the Pod Point I had installed in July 2020. I checked the mains voltage (240v) and used a current clamp meter to verify the current draw (30 amps).
That's 7.2Kw but subtract 10% charging loss and that gives 6.48Kw which tallies with what the pod point app displays, as Kw added over time. Just to add, if you don't unplug the charger right after the charge is complete, the pod point app will give false readings regarding the actual time to complete the charge. It will show total time connected, even after the charge is complete.
 

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Kona64
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks folks. The electrician phoned pod point who said as the install was not completed / fully registered at their end it was in a default mode. Apparently the Helpdesk said it should then go up a bit. Hmmmm The sparky also checked my voltage at 237v. I'll update here at the end of the week.
 

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the inside car display shows it drinking at 6.7 / 6.8 kW.
Agree with the post above about charging losses.

Not sure what your car is, but it is possible that the car is showing the rate at the battery after charging losses...

I think my Ioniq shows 7.1 on my home Podpoint.
 

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Kona64
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Discussion Starter #16
I think my Ioniq shows 7.1 on my home Podpoint.
Kona 64 so should have the same under bonnet kit as yours.

Today I am getting 6.6 / 6.7 -- I checked there were no kettles, irons etc on in the house, and this was after a 20mile drive.
I am waiting the formal nod from PodPoint that it is fully registered their end, will retest and then give them a ring.
I also found the dip switch settings but the electrical took the cover off and went over them with me and they tied up.

I've not yet got the app working with the home unit, as I have had it for 4years already and used for public £££ charging but just found out it has a different email to the one I'm now using for car stuff so doesn't "see" the PodPoint solo unit when I put its reference in. Les fussed about that, more wanting to have maximum electrons coming in to the car.
 

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Kona 64 so should have the same under bonnet kit as yours.

Today I am getting 6.6 / 6.7 -- I checked there were no kettles, irons etc on in the house, and this was after a 20mile drive.
I am waiting the formal nod from PodPoint that it is fully registered their end, will retest and then give them a ring.
I also found the dip switch settings but the electrical took the cover off and went over them with me and they tied up.

I've not yet got the app working with the home unit, as I have had it for 4years already and used for public £££ charging but just found out it has a different email to the one I'm now using for car stuff so doesn't "see" the PodPoint solo unit when I put its reference in. Les fussed about that, more wanting to have maximum electrons coming in to the car.
According to my on-line user manual for a 2019 Kona, the Hyundai quoted 0% - 100% charging time for the 64 kWh battery, from AC charging, is 9 h 35 min. This seems to correpond to a mean rate of 6.68 kW.
Possibly this rate is set by the car...
 

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Kona64
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Discussion Starter #18
On the phone app it says 3hrs for "station" to recharge my car. (same dashboard computer)
When I plug in the PodPoint solo it says 4hr to complete charge.

I'll get it to 50% battery so the maths are easy and see what it then says.
 

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Also, there may be variations in the mark-space ratio on the CP line out of the EVSE. The EVSE tells the car what's the max current it's allowed to draw, and this is infinitely variable from nominal 6A up to nominal 16A/32A/whatever the EVSE mfr or the owner has configured. The mark-space ratio varies in proportion to the desired current. I would not be surprised to find that different mfrs generate their mark-space ratios using different code/algorithms, maybe some are crystal controlled, maybe some aren't, and simply use the cheaper internal RC oscillator approximate clock built into many small cpus these days. Playing with the mark-space ratio into my Ampera, I was able to get it to charge at 5.5A, but no lower.
If its digitally generated, the variations will be insignificant.
 
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