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Discussion Starter #1
What do folks think about this suggestion. On a long trip as soon as the car has drained the battery switch to mountain mode once 30% is reached switch back to normal and continue to cycle until the end of the journey.
This is based on the theory That to run the engine full for 15 minutes followed by 15 minutes on electric would work out more economic than whatever the car does naturally.
 

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Probably more hassle than it's worth. Savings will be tiny, whatever you do tbh. ICE likely to be pretty noisy as it refills he battery, especially if you;re going up a hill at the time, and you'll find the response to full throttle to overtake rather underwhelming.

How about these ideas? If you have passengers, keep the electricity for going up hills. ICE gets V noisy in those situations, so I like to switch to N for that gorgeous silence, then I'll use MM or Hold once over the top, when the ICE will make a lot less noise. 2012 s'ware has a bug, where once you're <5 miles in Normal mode, car takes over a lot more; you can select MM and refill back up to 30% SOC, but mine won't let you go from there to N !!! Bonkers. If I stop the car & restart, than it's business as usual. So best to never go <5 miles on GOM until you're at the genuine end of trip. 2013s may be better in this respect.

Here's another (micro) range-enhancer. Using MM, or Hold, watch the energy flow panel to see when it switches from leccy to petrol. At that point turn on the heating, fan, A/C etc. When it goes back to leccy, immediately turn off the fan so none of that valuable leccy's being used to heat the cabin. Keeps you on your toes, so to speak, and alert!
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Some great ideas, thanks Andy. I think that I will use the ideas when I am going to go beyond electric range.
So far I have been hardly able to hear the engine, as they say Norfolk has no hills.
I can hear some mechanical noise when on electric which I am not accustomed to with the LEAF. Not sure if the gearbox is a bit worn.
 

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There is a sweet-spot where ICE engine is most effective. If your MM "charging" and drive style would correspond to keeping RPM's/Loadf in this spot then yes, you might be able to eek some efficiency from it. But as you can see from the graph, if it forces ICE to 4000 RPM/full throttle regime you will be in rather inefficient 265 g/kWh island. I believe that control logic in Normal mode is to keep ICE in most effective range as long as power is enough and cycle (PWM-style) the ICE if power demand is less than so, using battery as capacitor.

I reckon it is not worth to fiddle with MM.
137002
 

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I have to say I tend the follow the following approach , if > electric range , 2 x pre heat to keep maximium battery range , if its cold start on the hold as the heat is a free by product , if I am travelling more than 60mph then its hold model , if I am travelling through roadworks at a strict 50mph then use battery , if 70 (tends to under read so more like 75 mph on the dash) mph then hold mode , I avoid MM as its fuel inefficient , I then use sat nav towards the end of the journey to run out of range when I have reached my destination. The benefits are as Andy says , avoid thrashing the car in Range depleted mode as the engine runs at max RPM and is fuel inefficient. In normal Range depleted mode the engine runs with a 0.4 Kwh buffer and regularly tops it up. As Andy says the car is quite underpowered and on the motorway it can be slow to avoid that I always want battery to assist the petrol engine. At 60 mph the car actually engages the wheels directly for better fuel efficiency

using lift and coast on the Ampera will really improve your range along with eco on A/C and tyres at 39psi
 

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As you can see from the graph, ICE is most efficient around 2500RPM @ 90%-is load. Any scenario that pushes it above will hurt efficiency. Also, there is additional load of cold start enrichment which might make it more effective to start the journey on hold-mode as that will harvest ICE waste heat w/o battery needing to do resistive heating and light off catalyst quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think the direct drive above 60 mph is the clincher. My hypothesis is therefore dead.
Hold obove 60 mph and at start of long journey seems to be the way to go.
 

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I think the direct drive above 60 mph is the clincher. My hypothesis is therefore dead.
Hold obove 60 mph and at start of long journey seems to be the way to go.
AFAIK this is only on Gen2 Volts... It has an extra clutch pack for this function.

Cheers,
Jim
 

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Nope, it's on the Mk1s as well I'm sure. The Donald has frequently explained this to the rest of us mere mortals, so it must be true! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have just watched a YouTube video from an American University and yes it can drive from the motor to the final drive whilst also connected to the smaller motor/generator.
 

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Seems to be from about 40mph upwards, you need to be going at a steady pace and not accelerating for it to drop into this mode. You can I think tell its happened because if you accelerate when in this mode it takes a short interval to untangle the gears/clutches and switch the drive to the main motor only before accelerating ;)
 

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I stand corrected! I might have to get the mygreenvolt app out again and have a play whilst keeping an eye on engine revs/road speed to see what speeds/conditions it correlates.

Cheers
Jim
 

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I stand corrected! I might have to get the mygreenvolt app out again and have a play whilst keeping an eye on engine revs/road speed to see what speeds/conditions it correlates.

Cheers
Jim
One preheat and If it’s cold (5*) I use hold for the first 4 miles as it’s uphill,then 59 mph for the hour drive to work.
I can normally get there on the battery,this is after 1.6 years experimenting with it.
I’ve tried everything to get more out of her but failed.
Normally I get 10.2-3 but since I’ve been using the heaters all the way and running out of battery power,the next charge has given an indicated increase of kwh supplied and used.
It’s gradually gone up to 10.7 after a week or so.
Same mileage,just more kwh used.
 

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I then use sat nav towards the end of the journey to run out of range when I have reached my destination.
Have I missed a trick here in that the SatNav automatically toggles ICE/EV mode to deplete the battery as you arrive (like newer, but generally less clever PHEVs) or do you mean you simply use the SatNav to help you work this out yourself?
 

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One preheat ...
I’ve tried everything to get more out of her but failed.
Have you tried 2 preheats? Gets the cabin a lot hotter imho. You can launch the 2nd preheat before the first has finished! I generally give the first preheat about 10 mins to get going. Would be interesting to see if this does actually improve range over & above the one preheat, or whether it's just doing a bit of minimal extra comfort stuff.
 

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Have I missed a trick here in that the SatNav automatically toggles ICE/EV mode to deplete the battery as you arrive (like newer, but generally less clever PHEVs) or do you mean you simply use the SatNav to help you work this out yourself?
regrettably its not that clever I look at estimated range and the satnav to see how much of my journey is left and switch over manually
 

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Have you tried 2 preheats? Gets the cabin a lot hotter imho. You can launch the 2nd preheat before the first has finished! I generally give the first preheat about 10 mins to get going. Would be interesting to see if this does actually improve range over & above the one preheat, or whether it's just doing a bit of minimal extra comfort stuff.
I only use one preheat.
It’s the extra KWH that’s getting more after I use the heaters all the way until the battery is depleted.
Not sure if it’s actually that or it’s starting to rebalance the pack correctly.
I did read that the original update was for the 13 plate vehicles,which mine is.
I was originally getting just under 10,a year and half later I’m getting 10.5-7 now,that’s without me doing the update and not using the app to take it past the 20% buffer down to 16% .
 
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