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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After 3 years in my 'self charging' hybrid (Yaris), I have swapped it (plus some cash) for a 2014 i3 Rex - the car I always wanted but couldn't afford 3 years ago. I have 3 year's warranty, so 'feel' safe given i3 problem postings time will tell ……..

I am enjoying all the techie features and the performance, although the 40+ mph crosswinds last week weren't too nice.

On to some things I have noticed about the i3: as my old Yaris actually drives like a noisy EV, I can compare the 2 cars - it seems that Toyota's 20 year's worth of software counts. The Toyota steering feel is better (natural), the accelerator feel is better (natural) and the cruise control off transition is better (it gently slows down rather than actively 'brakes').

So, as my software is I001-16-07-506, is there an update and does it improve any of the listed items?

TIA.
 

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Hi are you saying your have a further 3 years warranty on the 2014 i3 you have?

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Not sure about the specific software version but one of the updates for early models related to the Rex engine mounts. IIRC it might affect the regen setting to make it slightly less harsh overall.

The issue with the i3 is it’s designed for one pedal driving so if you take your foot off the accelerator completely whilst in cruise and then switch off cruise, you are going to get full regen braking which is why it slows so rapidly. That’s just how the car is designed to drive. The answer is to get on the power in preparation before you switch off cruise.
 

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OP - is it possible that you have misunderstood the warranty? The battery on the i3 is warrantied for 8 years but not the rest of the car. The standard transferable BMW manufacturer’s Warranty is 3 years from new. BMW Insured warranties are available at cost and they are transferable for private to private sales/purchases. However, all insured warranties exclude a number of items.

From the policy document:

Your Comprehensive Component Cover covers all factory fitted mechanical and electrical components of the insured vehicle with the exception of the following:
Battery, BMW i3 and BMW i8 high voltage and auxiliary batteries, external connectivity charging cables, external recharging station, all exhaust components (except catalytic converter), brake and clutch facings, discs and drums, bulbs and fuses, channels and guides, weather strips and seals, handles, hinges and check straps, trim, upholstery and cosmetics finishes, bodywork, paintwork, wheels and tyres, wiper blades and arms, glass, auxiliary drive belts, coolant and fuel hoses, the cleaning or adjustment of any component, and all service items which will require periodic replacement. Please also refer to our policy on wear and tear
 

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BMW i3 REx 2014
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi, the warranty is made up of the 'free' one year BMW Approved Used Car Warranty and 'paid for' 2 years Inchcape warranty (in series!). I followed the advice of never having an i3 without warranty.

The dealer used the diagnostics software to show traction and 12V battery statuses which seemed OK.


Liking the pre-conditioning, but online seems to have started to fail over the past few days - have to use the remote.
 

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Please don't expect software to make the two cars feel the same. There is 97 bhp difference between the Yaris Hybrid (1085 kg) and the i3 (1315 kg with REx) . The handling feel in the i3 is totally different, it has to be to be safe, with 170 bhp and 250 Nm if the i3 handled like the Yaris, with its modest 111 Nm peak torque, you would soon be in deep deep trouble. German and Japanese cars have anyway totally different driving dynamics. Each has it merits and demerits. Germans advance while the Japanese proceed. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Please don't expect software to make the two cars feel the same. There is 97 bhp difference between the Yaris Hybrid (1085 kg) and the i3 (1315 kg with REx) . The handling feel in the i3 is totally different, it has to be to be safe, with 170 bhp and 250 Nm if the i3 handled like the Yaris, with its modest 111 Nm peak torque, you would soon be in deep deep trouble. German and Japanese cars have anyway totally different driving dynamics. Each has it merits and demerits. Germans advance while the Japanese proceed. :)
I was not talking about handling. To me, the steering is 'sticky' and has little self centering. The accelerator is heavy and sticky in certain scenarios.

BTW, the peak torque of the Yaris hybrid is higher than the i3 (111Nm engine plus the 169Nm electric motor). Using the Torque pro, I have 'seen' over 250Nm, the difference is that this only lasts for 2 seconds and then the electric motor rapidly backs off. These 2 seconds are fast but late in coming (the engine needs to spool up), so an i3 is in the distance.
 

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Liking the pre-conditioning, but online seems to have started to fail over the past few days - have to use the remote.
Yep, get used to that, it happens too often to all of us, the connected drive system is buggy and inconsistent so don’t think it’s just you.

Mine was working fine for a while but last 48 hours has seen it unable to communicate via the app to change settings. I generally find “climatise now” is the one thing that works quite well.
 

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I was not talking about handling. To me, the steering is 'sticky' and has little self centering. The accelerator is heavy and sticky in certain scenarios.
These don't sound familiar . Worth checking the tracking?

On the acceleration do you mean the pedal sticks or the acceleration of the car? If its the acceleration, are you in one of the eco modes and hitting the speed limiter? ... Its a very unusual experience when you first encounter it
 

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I was not talking about handling. To me, the steering is 'sticky' and has little self centering. The accelerator is heavy and sticky in certain scenarios.
Not sure I recognise steering comment either, but the acceleration seems programmed to give an exaggerated effect of power in comfort mode. It 'lurches' and then if you watch the power meter it will rapidly drop the power level without the driver changing the pressure on the pedal at all. Not sure that's what you mean though, as that's kind of the opposite of sticky!
 

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Hi, the warranty is made up of the 'free' one year BMW Approved Used Car Warranty and 'paid for' 2 years Inchcape warranty (in series!). I followed the advice of never having an i3 without warranty.

The dealer used the diagnostics software to show traction and 12V battery statuses which seemed OK.


Liking the pre-conditioning, but online seems to have started to fail over the past few days - have to use the remote.
Fair enough.

I also don't recognise the issues that you have raised. The i3 is designed for one pedal driving. The accelerator pedal in my car is smooth in operation (as is the steering) and, once you get used to coasting and regen braking, the car is a pleasure to drive. You can vary the amount of regeneration by varying how much pressure you take off the accelerator. Maximum range is achieved by coasting whenever you can. For example, coming to a halt at a roundabout is a mixture of coasting and regen braking. Rarely, is actual braking needed. Steering is light, and given the width of the tyres, handling is good: albeit, a bit bumpy on rough roads.

Your battery will have been checked at the 2 and 4 year servicings. The car should have been fully charged and connected to BMW's servers. Any updates will have been applied then. FWiW, I have not noticed much in the way of battery degradation on my 4 year old i3.

'Boy racer' acceleration reduces range markedly, and will lead to premature wear of the rear tyres which have to handle both acceleration and regen braking.

Don't believe everything that you hear about the i3's reliability. On my vehicle, the only failure that I have had is a sticking fuel flap that required a new fuel tank sensor. I think that this is now a recall item.
 

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Fair enough.

I also don't recognise the issues that you have raised. The i3 is designed for one pedal driving. The accelerator pedal in my car is smooth in operation (as is the steering) and, once you get used to coasting and regen braking, the car is a pleasure to drive. You can vary the amount of regeneration by varying how much pressure you take off the accelerator. Maximum range is achieved by coasting whenever you can. For example, coming to a halt at a roundabout is a mixture of coasting and regen braking. Rarely, is actual braking needed. Steering is light, and given the width of the tyres, handling is good: albeit, a bit bumpy on rough roads.

Your battery will have been checked at the 2 and 4 year servicings. The car should have been fully charged and connected to BMW's servers. Any updates will have been applied then. FWiW, I have not noticed much in the way of battery degradation on my 4 year old i3.

'Boy racer' acceleration reduces range markedly, and will lead to premature wear of the rear tyres which have to handle both acceleration and regen braking.

Don't believe everything that you hear about the i3's reliability. On my vehicle, the only failure that I have had is a sticking fuel flap that required a new fuel tank sensor. I think that this is now a recall item.
It's great news that you have the extended BMW warranty.

Wise man.

I love my i3 even after all the trouble of the first one I still bought another.


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After 3 years in my 'self charging' hybrid (Yaris), I have swapped it (plus some cash) for a 2014 i3 Rex - the car I always wanted but couldn't afford 3 years ago. I have 3 year's warranty, so 'feel' safe given i3 problem postings time will tell ……..

I am enjoying all the techie features and the performance, although the 40+ mph crosswinds last week weren't too nice.

On to some things I have noticed about the i3: as my old Yaris actually drives like a noisy EV, I can compare the 2 cars - it seems that Toyota's 20 year's worth of software counts. The Toyota steering feel is better (natural), the accelerator feel is better (natural) and the cruise control off transition is better (it gently slows down rather than actively 'brakes').

So, as my software is I001-16-07-506, is there an update and does it improve any of the listed items?

TIA.

I have a 60Ah REX and when my ACC disengages it doesn't brake like it used to before they messed with the regen, if I take my foot completely off the accelerator at 70mph it takes over 300meters for the speed to reduce, if I'm approaching a roundabout I often have to use the brake pedal now.

How do you know what software version you have, I think you have to use a USB stick, if you tell me what you did I'll replicate it for you and tell you what software mine has got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a 60Ah REX and when my ACC disengages it doesn't brake like it used to before they messed with the regen, if I take my foot completely off the accelerator at 70mph it takes over 300meters for the speed to reduce, if I'm approaching a roundabout I often have to use the brake pedal now.

How do you know what software version you have, I think you have to use a USB stick, if you tell me what you did I'll replicate it for you and tell you what software mine has got.
I got the I001-16-07-506 info by exporting my profile to a usb stick and looking inside the xml file with notepad.

Regarding the ACC software, what happened to the regen, is one pedal driving now not possible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The accelerator pedal in my car is smooth in operation
I have reassessed this aspect and the sluggishness on starting off is due to my car being on a slight incline - the software is making sure I don't roll back, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
GOM is showing the best so far with 81 miles at 98% - is this good for a 60Ah?
 

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I got the I001-16-07-506 info by exporting my profile to a usb stick and looking inside the xml file with notepad.

Regarding the ACC software, what happened to the regen, is one pedal driving now not possible?
One pedal driving is the i3 norm. The firmware charge reduced the braking effect at speed as it had the potential to tailgate in reverse. The braking effect at low speed is as good as it ever was. In truth, it matters not one jot as your brain will soon get used to it.

Don't get too hung up on the GOM: it is nothing more than a guess based on your recent usage patterns. Mine was showing 73 miles/SOC 98%. I have just got back from a 36 mile round trip and the GOM is now showing 41 EV range with 51% SOC remaining. If you consistently commute 30 miles there and back on a series of days and the temperature and road conditions are the same, then the GOM will be consistent. However, you can set off with 81 on the GOM and, if the roads are very wet, you won't get the 81 miles that you hoped for. EVs do not like cold and/or wet conditions.
 

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I got the I001-16-07-506 info by exporting my profile to a usb stick and looking inside the xml file with notepad.

Regarding the ACC software, what happened to the regen, is one pedal driving now not possible?

Mine is I001-16-11-502.
 

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... To me, the steering is 'sticky' and has little self centering. ...
Although driving a later model, unlike everybody else who has commented, I can totally identify with your assessment.
Considering BMW comes with such a sporting reputation (this is my first BMW) they clearly gave this car to a very new development team, and the steering is one aspect they totally screwed up, certainly as regards driver sensation and feedback. If you want positive you can say they have no reputation for the wheels falling off, or the electric assistance motor failing completely, but the target achievement should have been much MUCH higher than that.

Re your other comments about cruise control going into full braking; others have inferred this is something you can control. Again, this is not so.
The cruise control software is such that if the sensors 'misread' the road and traffic conditions (which can mean low sun, or strong shadow) the CC will totally fail and disengage, reverting control to throttle pedal input. As your foot is naturally 'off pedal' this means there is no input, so full regen braking is implemented, until you stamp on the pedal again, hoping your rear bumper isn't about to be smashed by someone who didn't expect your sudden braking.

Most unsettling, and to borrow a Clarkson type phrase 'which team of 16 year olds were responsible for the CC design?'.

The i3 apparently has one of the most sophisticated Battery Management Systems around, and that's good, but other aspects of the car design are simply appalling, steering feel / feedback, and Cruise Control, being but two of them.

Regards.
 
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