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2011 iMiev, 2020 Hyundai Ioniq electric premium se
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just taken possession of a 2011 i-Miev to replace our lease Zoe.

It is in excellent condition except for one niggle I would like help with.

The driver's side rear seat will not fold down and previous attempts in the car's past have stripped the release lever.

Does anyone have experience of releasing/fixing a rear seat mechanism?

Many thanks - and excited to join the i-Miev set!
 

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My passenger side rear seat lever started slipping badly to the point where I couldn't adjust the seat anymore and it felt like the plastic handle was stripped off whatever it is attached to - which is a bit worrying as I have a toddler car seat there but sometimes need to remove it and fold the seats down for load carrying, so I was worried I wouldn't be able to get the seat back up to put the toddler seat back in...

After it seemed hopeless, with a bit of fiddling it started working again and it now works 100% and does't feel like it's stripped at all! So I never did get as far as taking it apart to see what went wrong...

I'll be interested to know what you find. BTW you haven't accidentally pushed the lever backwards have you ? It pushes forwards to operate and I have a feeling that when lifting the seat up I may have caused the problem by trying to push the lever backwards instead of forwards...
 

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2011 iMiev, 2020 Hyundai Ioniq electric premium se
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A quick update on the rear seat issue.

I got access to the back to the seat (zip and hooked flaps of fabric secure the seat covering).

Two catched hinges at either side of the seat back are actuated by a looped cable passed across the back to the seat.

Both catches unlatched when levered by screwdriver and the cable ran freely. The catches seemed stiff (strong spring?) though.

Not finding anything mechanically wrong I gave them a blast of WD40 and turned by attention to the release lever.

This is cheapy plastic. The metal splinea/spindle of the catch/hinge is mated to a plastic socket arrangement which had broken. The metal spindle had been stripped by previous repeated attempts to activated the catch using pliers (I know because I did exactly the same thing trying to test the mechanism).

DBMandrake's point about instinctively pulling the lever up when trying to raise the seat back is very true but I think the combined resistance of two (too) stiff latches was just too much for the half hearted lever.

Having satisfied myself that the mechanism did work (by strong arming the spindle with a pair of mole grips) I resorted to creating a stronger lever.

After looking around I decided there was nothing for it but a bodge.

I bought a universal window winder handle from ebay, rebuilt the spindle, with a combination of drilling to provide purchase and liquid metal to increase the diameter, so that one of the supplied adapters would grip enough to overcome the resistance of the stiff mechanism.

It works and looks quite good. Not sure how long it will last so if anyone has a better solution I am all ears.
I am not replacing the other side until it breaks.

The other niggles sorted:

I don't think this i-miev had ever been rapid charged so they had not noticed the chademo flap did not work (cable had become disconnected at the level end - apparently very common).

We have a heated driver's seat - switch was just not connected. Not found any reason to disable heated seat yet ....

I am now scouring the internet for solutions to the dreadful heater - 17miles of predicted range lost with one click of the ac button! I used the tip from elsewhere on this forum of just using the fan on two clicks without heat to demist the windscreen but my wife is not impressed (but the heated seat saved the day).

Unfortunately this i-miev did not come with a remote to allow preheating. Do all i-mievs come with the car side electronics to allow preheating - ie is it worth hunting down a remote (or hack) to try activating the preheat?

Otherwise pleased with the car - I prefer it to our PCP'd 22kw slow charging Zoe which was too little car in some respects and too much car in others. My wife would beg to differ!
 

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A quick update on the rear seat issue.
[...]

It works and looks quite good. Not sure how long it will last so if anyone has a better solution I am all ears.
I am not replacing the other side until it breaks.
Glad you got the seat lever fixed, after a fashion. Mine is working ok again so I'm just being careful with it, hoping that it doesn't decide to break completely!
I don't think this i-miev had ever been rapid charged so they had not noticed the chademo flap did not work (cable had become disconnected at the level end - apparently very common).
Yep, mine had that problem when I went to view it before purchase - I actually panicked because a few were apparently sold in the UK without Chademo so I thought there might be nothing under the hatch - but it was just the bowden cable had slipped off the bracket.
We have a heated driver's seat - switch was just not connected. Not found any reason to disable heated seat yet ....
Interesting - pretty sure mine doesn't have a heated seat - as well as no switch it only has very fine airbag wires under the seat, so I guess I am out of luck. I ended up buying electric seat covers and they make a big difference.
I am now scouring the internet for solutions to the dreadful heater - 17miles of predicted range lost with one click of the ac button! I used the tip from elsewhere on this forum of just using the fan on two clicks without heat to demist the windscreen but my wife is not impressed (but the heated seat saved the day).
Remember that the range prediction is based on you continuing to run the Heater/AC at the same level for the entire rest of the journey. So if you only need to run it for a few minutes to get the windows cleared and then you can turn it down (or off) you won't lose as much range as it says.

To conserve heater use in the winter I tend to keep the heater temperature up near maximum in freezing conditions but once the window is cleared I'll turn the fan down to about 2 or 3 clicks with the vents set to footwell and windscreen.

The energy consumption is more dependent on the fan speed than the temperature setting because the air velocity controls how much heat can be removed from the heater matrix. A low fan speed means it can keep the matrix hot with a lot less average power.

I prefer the feeling of a very gentle breeze of fairly hot air than a much faster breeze of only lukewarm air.

Having said that, I'm seriously considering fitting a something like a 5 kW webasto diesel parking heater to mine before next winter as winter range with heater use on my daily commute has been a bit tight.

If you do it right you can fit it under the bonnet near the battery and tap it into the normal heater fluid loop at the reservoir, after the PTC heater but before the heater matrix. There are many videos of people doing this online some with all the details necessary to replicate it.

The idea is you use the normal heater matrix and fan, but leave the heat control on the dash turned to the middle so the PTC heater doesn't activate. I reckon a 2 litre bottle of Diesel - which will also fit under the bonnet on the other side, would run the heater on full blast for at least 4 hours, and when you consider that it doesn't need to run full blast once it warms up you'd probably get about 6 hours driving time with a hot cabin...

You could also still choose to use the electric heater for shorter trips when you can spare the range, and save the diesel heater for long trips where you need the extra range.
Unfortunately this i-miev did not come with a remote to allow preheating. Do all i-mievs come with the car side electronics to allow preheating - ie is it worth hunting down a remote (or hack) to try activating the preheat?
Pre-heat wasn't available until about mid 2012 on the i-Miev (and never on the Peugeot Ion and Citroen C-Zero) and having looked at and compared the wiring diagrams for 2011 and 2012 i-Miev's (without and with pre-heat) it appears another ECU was added to control pre-heating, so an easy hack doesn't look likely, unless it is possible to obtain this ECU and plug it into an existing spare plug in the wiring loom!

I spent a few hours with a Lexia diagnostic tool and going over the wiring diagrams trying to work out how the interlocking for the heater works to see if there was any way to fool it into running the heater with the charge cable plugged in but I was unsuccessful.

While I don't think it is impossible, it is certainly not easy as there is complex interlocking between multiple ECU relating to charging, heater control and so on... doing a diagnostic dump of CAN bus communications would probably be the only way to figure out what messages control the interlocking but I don't have the equipment to do that.

If you manage to figure it out, let us know! One thing to keep in mind with pre-heat is that the heater on full power draws about 5kW, but the charger is only 3.6kW on a Type 2 or 2.2kW on a granny charger.

So unless you can command the heater to limit itself to the power available from the charger it will still drain the battery. I assume this is one of the tasks of the ECU that was added in the 2012 models - to make sure the heater is limited to the same power that the charger can provide when in preheat mode to avoid draining the battery.

My workaround for lack of preheat is to go out to the car about an hour before I'm due to leave, unplug it, put the spare key in, turn the heater up to maximum on the windscreen and turn on the rear window demister, lock the car with the other key, then come back 10-15 minutes later, turn it off and plug it back in.

The remaining 45 minutes is long enough to top the battery off to 100% again but not so long that the windscreen freezes up again. (Usually!) The car is cool by the time I go to drive it, but not ice cold like it would have been before I defrosted it.
 

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Easy pre-heat solution - electric heater placed in the car (somewhere safe obviously), plugged into an appropriate extension lead and fed into the house. About 20 mins before leaving flick a switch then relax in the house as the car warms it's entire interior (important detail as this then holds the heat far longer than just warming the screen), clears all windows and leaves everything you touch reasonable.
Then remove the whole kit from the car, place in garage/house/etc (somewhere safe again) and enjoy full range in a warm car.
It only needs the heater on as a top up after that.
 

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I'm not sure that I would call that an "easy" solution.

It means extension leads draped out a window, and shut in the door (?) of the car overnight and being removed again afterwards. I had a tethered charge point installed partly to get rid of all the hassles of rolling and unrolling cables every time I use the car.

Finding an electric heater that can safely sit upright in the confines of a small car without falling over is difficult too - the floor isn't a suitable location as the heat will rise directly onto the seats and the boot is usually full.

If the heater falls over it could well start a fire in the car. Not great!
 

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I'm not sure that I would call that an "easy" solution.

It means extension leads draped out a window, and shut in the door (?) of the car overnight and being removed again afterwards. I had a tethered charge point installed partly to get rid of all the hassles of rolling and unrolling cables every time I use the car.

Finding an electric heater that can safely sit upright in the confines of a small car without falling over is difficult too - the floor isn't a suitable location as the heat will rise directly onto the seats and the boot is usually full.

If the heater falls over it could well start a fire in the car. Not great!
It involves an oil filled heater (around £30), a decent, ampropriate extension lead (around £20) and quite literally a couple of minutes to set up/remove.
What's your easy solution again?
 

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Hi, I got the Webasto Thermotop Evo4 running just after Christmas. It has totally transformed the way we use the car. Minus 5 degrees this morning, fired up the heater whilst having breakfast, 10 minutes on the 1533 timer control and car was toasty throughout and frost free. That was with the heater running on recirculation mode. When driving down the street, will put back on fresh air mode for a few minutes to blast some external low humidity air through the car.

It's not a quick, cheap solution. I used a small press brake to bend the sheet metal mounts, a drill press to drill all the holes, a lathe to make a fuel tank adaptor: probably all slightly over-engineered, There was a bit of thread tapping here and there! So car is now a electric/fuel hybrid traction/heat machine.

I originally installed the exhaust exiting on the left front side just inside the wheel arch, facing downwards/back at a 10 degree angle as per instructions. This resulted in some ingestion into the fresh air inlet. This has now been changed so that the exhaust discharges out the side of the car, facing 45 degrees backwards/downwards, about 10" behind where the A pillar meets the sill.

Will post some details and photos in CZero / PION section some time in the future.

Fuel at the moment is heating kero purchased in a 20 litre container (slightly cheaper than diesel).
 

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Seat prob i believe is to accidentally move seat lever wrong way. I fixed mine by taking seat out and tack welding the metal square bit back on to the worn spline in the plastic lever.

If i wanted to preheat mine i would go for the oil filled rad, i use them elsewhere in the house and are very safe with their thermo cut out. Cannot start a fire.
 
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