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Discussion Starter #41
Is there a full list of i-MiEV DTCs somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I see my questions regarding the Battery Capacity Measurement using the MUT3 are answered in the i-MiEV Service Manual ...
130633
 

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Simon et al,

Thanks v much for the input, most encouraging I agree.

Any thoughts about the 'BAT-LIN Slave Error'? I can't find any reference to it on the web or the service manual.
I can't find anything about that error either, I can only assume it's a result of turning the car on with the high voltage leads disconnected or similar, and that it will hopefully go away when everything is reconnected and codes cleared.
Just one point before I move on... I originally owned an iOn which is why I bought my Chinese clone MUT3 (for about £300 IIRC) and it worked fine on it... just the same as on this i-MiEV. I don't know what the Diagbox costs as I have not had any thing to do with one...
Diagbox definitely doesn't work with i-Miev's, so it's interesting to hear that the MUT-III works with the Ion/C-Zero, as that provides a possible route to renumber CMU's if it turns out that Diagbox can't do it. (The feature sets of the two tools don't fully overlap)

Diagbox/Lexia 3 kits typically cost around £120 for a decent one - I've had mine for 8 years now originally bought for use with a Citroen Xantia, so it was handy that it worked with the Ion as well. They only work with Citroen and Peugeot cars.
I think it would be worth conncting the pack HV leads; inverter/AC charger, A/C pump and heater as the latter 2 are (I gather) used for the battery capacity measurement procedure, but not CHAdeMO port.
You might get away with not connecting the Chademo port HV leads as the car won't have any way to detect that if you're not chademo charging, but I would definitely connect the two front cables for the A/C and heater as not only do you need the heater for a load to discharge the battery for the capacity measurement, the heater and AC both have Canbus data lines that will report fault codes if they don't detect the high voltage being present when it should be.
At thispoint I'll see if the car goes to 'Ready' and/or if it will charge (just enough to see if it works) as without those I won't have made any progress, really.

If they work OK, I'll then have a look at the 'Battery Maintenance Function' to see what's in there (I think I did before what it did not look interesting/helpful so I ignored it). I'll then try the battery capacity measuring proceedure, 'Ready' and then 'Action' and repoert back.
Are you going to fit the replacement cell first ? If that one cell is faulty and low in capacity the pack capacity measurement will be reporting the capacity of the weakest cell in the pack - the faulty one. So I'm not sure how useful that would be.

Do you have a Lithium Ion charger/discharger that can do capacity measurement on the replacement cell ? As long as the replacement is at least 40Ah from 4.1v to 3.6v I would just go ahead and swap it in. As mentioned earlier it's best to do this with the pack and replacement cell both fully charged so that they will be in correct balance before you do the capacity measurement.
 

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Is there a full list of i-MiEV DTCs somewhere?
Yep, on Google. :D

I just Google i-Miev followed by the code and it usually comes up with a match from the Service manual that you have linked below - most of the codes are in this manual but they're not easy to find without a Google search, and a few codes need to be tracked down elsewhere from other Google search matches.

I see my questions regarding the Battery Capacity Measurement using the MUT3 are answered in the i-MiEV Service Manual ... View attachment 130633
Sorry I forgot all about that i-Miev manual. It's the best online service and data reference for the i-Miev and clones - most info you'll need you should be able to find in there, although I find it a bit cumbersome to search through to find things.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
After some more tinkering, I have charging, 'Ready', and traction! Woop-woop!

(Edit: I forgot to mention that with the pack on the trolly it was impossible to get to the service port to reattach the inverter HV leads to the battery. So I had to use a pair of ratchet straps under the long bits of 100mm square section timbers I had (fortunately) decided to use to fully support the (actually rather floppy plastic) battery tray/box bottom. These went up to the car's chassis, one front and one rear. I could then lift the pack up again, suspended 30cm or so down from it's normal position (and still missing its lid, fan and all bar one earth connection as well as the CHAdeMO cables detached) so I could re-attach (temporarily) the HV inverter cables. Not ideal but it did the job.)

Still have the yellow car&! on the dash and the dipped beam dash light is flashing (probably something to do with the front end damage caused whilst parked up awaiting repair her last summer).

The only other clue to the U1937 DTC is this...

130636


... which I think I got after doing ‘Battery Maintenance Function’ > 'Control information Reset' and then re-checking the DTCs in EV-ECU (having figured out that there is a switch built in to the Service Plug and replaced the orange plug ‘body’/surround-thing temporarily - this also prevented ‘Ready’ and charging).

Anyone got any clues?
 

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Do you have the yellow dash exclamation mark when NOT charging.

The Russian manual for the IMiev has quite a lot of trouble shooting advice for the P0A0A code if that's what you still get. If you have only replaced the plug body temporarily is this the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
P0A0A was defo the Service Plug switch not being read due to the orange plastic 'surround' being missing intitally. WIth this temporarily replaced and the Service Plug inserted and latched, the switch was able to correctly report 'Serice Plug Installed' and the P0A0A fault cleared (with a Delete DTC proceedure) and the car then would permit 'Ready' and charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Do you have the yellow dash exclamation mark when NOT charging.
Yes. I'm guessing certain types of DTCs will cause this - possibly any DTC. The flashing dipped beam light is proably not CAN-related and will clear when I put the headlights back in after a bit of bodywork.

Still can;t find anythng relating to the 'Bat-Lin' DTCs... I am wondering if I should put the 'slave' PCB that cam with the replacement CMU PCB in rather than leave the original on in? Maybe they are paired at manufacture or something?

Anyway, I used the heater to bring the pack capacity down to 40% last thing yesterday as a prelude to doing the 'Battery Capacity Measurement' (BCM) proceedure. The Russian manual details it quite well and so far it matches how the MUT3 interacts with the car when trying to execute the 'Ready' part of the BCM proceedure. Whihc means that when I tried to run it, MUT3 app reported that the battery was too full...

130656


130654


130655


So I spent a good hour discharging it down to 40% ready to try again today. My plan is to see how the low cell (42) responds to the BCM procedure. I really don’t need much range here and I am most unlikely to take the car off the island (I’d need to get it MOT’ed if I did anyway). So, replacing 42 may not be necessary.

I think it's worth changing the CMU05 slave board...
 

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Discussion Starter #49

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Discussion Starter #52
I have, in fact I started this 'blog' there. I only brought it over to this forum as I thought the issue was better covered here!
 

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Might be worth a dig though this reference as to general families of codes used by Mitsubishi EVs


Is it worth disconnecting and reconnecting any data wires/connectors that have been disturbed?
 

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Its possibly worth looking at the general Canbus error warnings (clear all of these first in case they propagate false fault codes).
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
I swapped the second PCB for the one that came with the main one though I have no way of confirming they came out of the same CMU or what year of car... and unfortunately this action has made no difference at all. However, I now get the option of doing 'All DTCs' using the button on the main interface of the MUT3 app (which was greyed out before - it may have something to do with the way I react to the 2 error messages I always get when I start the app).

Anyway, these are all the active DTCs since the additional CMU05 PCB swap...

130674


... which is an improvement. I think the U1111 code relates to the fact that either the headlight units are disconnected (hence the flashing dipped beam warning light) and/or the battery is still not fully back together and properly mounted in the car (and the battery lid & therefore its fan are disconnected, too).

A comparison of the main CMU PCB (original at bottom (edited))…
130675


So, close, but no cigar.

I think I’ll try SecondLifeStorage to see if they have any of the same revision CMU PCBs. Or has anyone any thoughts on where else I could try? If all else fails I guess I could get the IC changed on the original board. In the meantime, I put the car back together as it is and see if it works well enough to put it into service.
 

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The CMU's in my 2011 Ion are green and all the ones I have seen online are also green - your red one is the first time I've ever heard of one being red. The red is just presumably the conformal coating though ?

Have you looked for any model numbers or version numbers on the corners of the boards to see if they differ ? I still have high res photos of my boards that might be good enough to see version numbers if I zoom in. (Also I think in Ruperts thread he details the PCB version number of his so have a look there too)

Here is another possible source of CMU's, as he gets i-Miev packs through semi-regularly:


The description says ships continental Europe only but when I was emailing him a year ago he was happy to ship a few cells to the UK. (In the end I got my cells from secondlifestorage though)
 

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Interesting read - most likely something has changed between the red and green CMUs, making them not fully compatible. Probably easiest to get your old CMU repaired.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
I have been in contact with PRO-Lox (Facebook) in the Netherlands who deals with i-MiEV packs all the time. He has advised that he has never seen any different PCB revision numbers than the ones on my original PCBs so it seems unlucky that I managed to get a different one (details below). He had offered to supply a pair for CMU05 for €75 including postage, which I will accept. I shall, in that case, not reassemble the car but wait for his boards to arrive and fit them instead. So... stand by for an update. (Note: Following PCB markings details edited - got them the wrong way around!)...

SecondLifeStorage PCB:
Etch:
G8D-795M-8
PWB(A)
ver0.0.2

SecondLifeStorage PCB:
Etch:
G8D-795M-8
PWB(B)
ver0.0.2
White Label;
P/N: 9499A794
S/N: 01000048218
Type: G8D-795M-8
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Main Main PCB:
Etch:
G8D-7xxx-8 (can't read the x's due to a resin blob)
PWB(A)
ver2.1.5

Original Slave Slave PCB:
Etch:
G8D-793M-8
PWB(B)
ver2.1.4
White Label;
P/N: 9499A393
S/N: 00000010588
Type: G8D-793M-8

(Why do the old red ones have a later revison number?! - I think this is why I got them mixed up in the first place. - Should have marked them upon first disassembling!)
 

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Fingers crossed on the second board - I wonder if it's possible the red board is for a different battery type ?

In Japan the i-Miev was also available with an SCiB (Lithium Titanate) battery instead of the Lithium Iron Phosphate (?) type we normally see. The SCiB battery had less capacity (10kWh I think) but could rapid charge much faster and survive many more charge cycles.

An SCiB battery has different cell voltages and very different characteristics so probably requires a different battery management system, at the very least different firmware. (Maybe the hardware is the same but firmware differs)

I didn't think SCiB versions of the i-Miev were ever sold outside Japan but I suppose it's possible that sales of parts from wrecks might have found their way out of the country.

Assuming the new board works I'd be asking secondlifestorage where they sourced that oddball board from and see if they'll take it back...

So if you receive a known CMU05 board this time I guess you won't need to do the CMU renumbering process ?
 

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Red is sometimes used for pre-production electronic circuit boards. So this board might be a very early one out of a pre-production car that has now been broken up. So a modification on the board is a possibility and the shift in the serial numbers with the 01 in the first two digits for the green board may be the difference between production and pre-production boards.
 
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