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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
We’ve had our id3 4 weeks now and we’ve noticed that when we charge it at home with our Pod-Point it randomly stops charging. It was plugged in this evening, we got the green light and 15 mins later when we checked it wasn’t charging. Same for this afternoon, I got home, plugged it in, left it for 3 hours and it had barely charged as it had stopped after about 30 mins. Has anyone else had this problem?
 

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I assume you're charging a around 7 kW, or are you on a 3.3 kW EVSE? Have yo charged ok at thi srate with som eother previous EV? If so, has to tbe the car's fault surely.

Has the EVSE tripped out? My 7kW one was tripping & doing sudden shutdown after 20 mins or so, when I first ran it at around 7 kW on new Ioniq. Ioniq was drawing 31.5A, enough to warm up the RCD rated at 32A, and when those get warmer than 30C they de-rate the current so can start tripping!
 

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Hi,
We’ve had our id3 4 weeks now and we’ve noticed that when we charge it at home with our Pod-Point it randomly stops charging. It was plugged in this evening, we got the green light and 15 mins later when we checked it wasn’t charging. Same for this afternoon, I got home, plugged it in, left it for 3 hours and it had barely charged as it had stopped after about 30 mins. Has anyone else had this problem?
By a process of elimination, you need to find out if it’s the vehicle or the charger. Does the ID3 charge on 7kW public charging points without issues? If you know someone else with an EV, does their’s charge on your Pod Point without stopping?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I assume you're charging a around 7 kW, or are you on a 3.3 kW EVSE? Have yo charged ok at thi srate with som eother previous EV? If so, has to tbe the car's fault surely.

Has the EVSE tripped out? My 7kW one was tripping & doing sudden shutdown after 20 mins or so, when I first ran it at around 7 kW on new Ioniq. Ioniq was drawing 31.5A, enough to warm up the RCD rated at 32A, and when those get warmer than 30C they de-rate the current so can start tripping!
It’s a 7kwh charger. This is our first EV and we’ve only charged it at home other than once we’ve charged it on a 50Kwh charger on the A1. What did you do about it tripping out?
By a process of elimination, you need to find out if it’s the vehicle or the charger. Does the ID3 charge on 7kW public charging points without issues? If you know someone else with an EV, does their’s charge on your Pod Point without stopping?
[/QUOTE

I don’t know anyone else with an EV unfortunately. I’ll have to go and give a public 7kwh charger a go and see what happens. Thanks.
 

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Let's get this clear; if it's the car's fault, expect the car to stop charging, but the EVSE should have lights on somewhere still. Is this what you get?

Or, has the car stopped charging and the EVSE has also shut down with a trip gone somewhere? we're trying to work out which thing decided to stop. Usually the EVSE wll have it's own mini-Consumer Unit box close to the main CU with loads of Contact Breakers in. This might have 2 switchable things in it, a Breaker and an RCD (I may have the exact terms wrong). Are either of these switches tripping? You may have a very similar item on your EVSE as well, could be an RCBO, if so, is that tripping?

If it's just the car's fault, I'd expect all these switches to not trip out, hopefully. Plz tell us exactly what switches need resetting.

While you're checking these, have a close look at the numbers & letters on these things. I'm hoping they all have something like "40A" or "B40" on them somewhere. If any have "32A" or "B32", I'll bet you it's the one that's tripping. You'll need to replace it with a similar item that's rated 40A instead. You might be able to set the charging rate inside the car to something lower then 7Kw, if so, do that and it's a temp workaround that will go slowly, but should not trip. You can change these things yourself if you're happy to do electrical work like this, but if it worries you, just get an electrician in to do it for you. Do not take any risks!!! Screws must be tightened properly (=very tight), ideally with a Torque screwdriver set to whatever torque the mfr of the RCD/whatever says, but these tools cost around £60 upwards.
Here's a pic of what was installed in my mini-CU originally:
137725


The RHS item has 40 A on, so that's 40 Amps, is fine. The left hand one was warming up after 20 mins & stopping my charging, and it's got B32 on. Bad news! Take a pic like this, go to your local electrical dealer, and say you want a good quality B40 equivalent item. If they offer you one with the name "Rolec" on it, refuse that item, ask for Hager or similar.
 
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