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I was going to make similar points to @HandyAndy but he's beaten me to it, the resistors they are sending you are normally used to bring the power consumed up from 36w to the 55w of the normal halogen lamp to deal with systems that sense the power load and create error messages. They may have a filter built in but if not they will do nothing for radiated or conducted electrical noise if that's the problem.
All of the automotive LED drivers I've looked at have both capacitors and inductors in their designs given the limited price some of these LEDS retail for it's hard to see quality components included in them.
 

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I suppose the difference might be that mine are the 4800k warmer white version. I prefer the warmer color. Anyway, the resistors should be arriving soon so I get to check them out.

Lähetetty minun FP2 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 

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I was going to make similar points to @HandyAndy but he's beaten me to it, the resistors they are sending you are normally used to bring the power consumed up from 36w to the 55w of the normal halogen lamp to deal with systems that sense the power load and create error messages. They may have a filter built in but if not they will do nothing for radiated or conducted electrical noise if that's the problem.
All of the automotive LED drivers I've looked at have both capacitors and inductors in their designs given the limited price some of these LEDS retail for it's hard to see quality components included in them.
Just install a set of retrofit HIDS , you can buy them from HIDS4U , then follow this USA install Video from 5 years ago. Changed our Volt to this in 2017 and been through 2 MOTS no issues. I go the bright white versions. Work 200% better than the originals and because of the Volts shutter system no one flashes you when on low beam.

 

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I have a set of HIDS from HIDS4U which are a touch better than cheap Ebay imports that I don't now need.

Used them for two or three years without complaint but have recently fitted MAXGTRS LED's that I prefer although not markedly better.

If anyone would like them I would let them go for £15 + postage.
 

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Hi, I have been following this thread for an age. I hope you don't mind that I don't own an Ampera, (although I did test drive one when they launched and would still consider buying one).

I have a question about the MAXGTRS 4800K leds mentioned above. I have bought a pair of these for fitting into a Toyota Auris, which has the same poorly-performing HIR2 technology that your Amperas do.

In the Toyota, I eventually realised, the LEDS only light if the power connector is reversed, which is possible to do as the polarising tang that is on a headlamp bulb is not fitted to the equivalent LED connector. In this picture would someone advise me what the arrow is pointing to, as I didn't get this bit with mine. Is it a polarity changer? With the connector reversed mentioned above, it will not 'click' into place as the clip is now on the wrong side, so this connector will probably come apart as it is.

I have tried informing the sender of the above problem, they basically sent me an email asking for a picture. I wrote a simple description and sent this picture but they no longer respond to my emails at all!

Thanks in advance.
 

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It's the same with mine on Ampera. I found the connector to be tight enough to trust that doesn't come loose. You could probably wrap the seam with self-amalgamating tape or something to be sure..

Lähetetty minun FP2 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 

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My HIDS from HIDS4U needed the pins reversing. Apparently there is no standard for pin orientation between manufacturers as halogen bulbs don't need it.
 

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Thanks for the quick response to my query. If it's of any interest, Toyota market their own-badged HIR2 upgrade bulbs which go by the name of Toyota OptiBrite (not to be confused with their OptiWhite range). They are brighter and whiter than the factory-fit Philips (which are marked 'LL', Long Life?) cost about £50 a pair, and last about 500 hours. For us, that was about 1 year. These upgrades are clearly made by Philips and have a 'CVU' marking on their base (Crystal Vision Ultra?).

The MAXGTRS 4500K are brighter than both those. The beam pattern is the same as normal with the LEDS, but is filled in more. The beam cut off is basically very good, like the normal bulb (I'm a bit particular about this), but the l/h bulb has a slight clockwise twist to it, but it's not a problem.

I'm a little surprised that I can hear the LED fans in the car with the engine off. In the Auris there is some clearance behind the LED for the air to circulate, which I'm pleased about. When looking at the front of the car into the light beam, there is a predictable dark patch at the top and bottom of the lens, which corresponds the the LED blade orientation inside the headlamp.


Thanks again.
 

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Finally, I'm happy about the dust-covers I've designed & made. V slightly altered from the design above - I've extended the air outlet to the entire central section. Here's a pic of the first pair of un-slotted covers. I'm happy to supply these for £15 a pair, message me with your address & whether you want slotted ot un-slotted style; slotted are suitable for LEDs with the chunky power-control box thing sitting outside the headlamp enclosure.

View attachment 113048
Hi Andy
Have you done any temp tests with this yet to see the benefit?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I currently have the 4800k (Red fan case) LEDs fitted and have had no problems at all, but then I haven't driven for any length of time with them on yet, only lots and lots of short journeys. The comments above about the electronics is a bit worrying though, so I'll continue to carry my spare set of Nightbreaker halogens in the car and have my spare set of 6000k LEDs here at home, the ones which do have the electronics box and do appear better made!
 

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I ordered the 4800k LED bulbs from Aliexpress today. I asked them to include 2 resistors with the package so that if I can use them immediately if any error message appears rather than waiting for them to be shipped. After driving an i3 with LED headlights it was a quite a shock to drive the Ampera at night!
 

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I ordered the 4800k LED bulbs from Aliexpress today. I asked them to include 2 resistors with the package so that if I can use them immediately if any error message appears rather than waiting for them to be shipped. After driving an i3 with LED headlights it was a quite a shock to drive the Ampera at night!
Dammit I ordered mine a week ago but didn’t ask for the resistors. Here’s hoping there’s no problems.
 

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I'm a little surprised that I can hear the LED fans in the car with the engine off.
Damm quiet cars, nothing banging and rattling under the bonnet, even failing wheels bearings can be heard several years before the ones in a normal car. I'm afraid you will need to get used to things like this, the startled pidgeon and in my case one that pulled up sharply when it realised there was an open window in a moving car in front of it.:D:D:D:eek:
 

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No, it happens regardless to the lights being on or not. I'll try unplugging the leds during the day to see if this makes any difference & report back. (y)
Well, I finally got around to removing the MAXGTRS & installing my old NAO led lights to see if the parking sensors started working again. Made no difference. So either the MAXGTRS done something to them somehow, or it was just a coincidence! I've stuck the MAXGTRS back in again as they are superior to the NAO led's in every way. I'll get the sensors looked at when its up for its next service. I find I didn't really need them anyway as the Ampera isn't a big car & the reversing camera is handy
 

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A quick follow-up: while the resistors fixed the light failure messages, the front park assist sensors still misbehave, and park assist gets turned off automatically. Maxgtrs is now sending a different set of adapters, I hope they finally fix the problem.
 

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Have you tried going back to the halogens and as the headlights have no effect on the car when switched off, do you have the problem all the time?
 
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