My car has been left for more than 5 weeks without charging or being used as the 12v battery was still fine.If you leave it too long without charging (or taking it for a run) then your 12 volt battery will go flat. Also, don’t forget that the BMS retains battery capacity and doesn’t charge to 100% nor does it allow complete discharge.
For all intents and purposes I would suggest ignoring the Battery University advice and follow the manufacturer‘s advice unless you plan to keep the vehicle for 150,000 miles plus. One day you will be half charged and need to do an extended run at short notice and have to wait a few hours to charge it up!
It does depend on electrode composition and electrolyte chemistry. If you are interested there is a peer reviewed article here:Do they define what they mean by "long-term"? There's a massive difference between a few weeks on a driveway vs a few years on a shelf in a warehouse.
Seriously? Nobody I know buys a new car every 2 - 3 years. Way to suffer most from depreciation.In reality, you probably won't have it long enough to notice the effects, assuming you swap cars every 2-3 years like the majority of folk.
That's a very interesting finding, as it somewhat defecates all over the "only charge to 80%" mantra that I see quite a lot.The fastest capacity fade occurs at a SoC interval between 60% and 90%.
only charging to 80% made such a large difference to Leaf to battery longevity that Nissan removed the limiter ability to only charge to 80% from later models...That's a very interesting finding, as it somewhat defecates all over the "only charge to 80%" mantra that I see quite a lot.
I'm taking the approach of assuming that VW have designed the car well enough that I won't need to use their battery warranty, and I'll probably flog the car before the battery warranty expires anyway. But it's probably much easier to be relaxed about it in a PHEV, because I really just need the battery to be good enough to start the engine for the car to still be functional (albeit not economical).
Sure, but you don't have that much buffers. More like 100% is really 96% or thereabouts.I assume that there is a built-in protection that you cannot charge too much (90%) or too little (10%), I know if my car indicates 0% battery that it is therefore not empty ...
Nobody under a certain age buys cars. PCP/lease, 2 or 3 years, swap it at the end. Monthly payments are a sunk cost of having access to a reliable vehicle.OK, so I idid a run today with heat full blast and got it down to 93%
Seriously? Nobody I know buys a new car every 2 - 3 years. Way to suffer most from depreciation.
As I understand it, the reason for removing the 80% limiter option was not because it wasn't needed, but that removing it increased the EPA range (due to the way EPA is calculated)...only charging to 80% made such a large difference to Leaf to battery longevity that Nissan removed the limiter ability to only charge to 80% from later models...
5% buffer based on capacity, or voltage. What are you basing your assertion that the car is sitting at 97% on (a fictional B U battery).Come on this is pub talk!Considering the Kona battery only has a 5% buffer, it is anywhere between 95% and 100%, probably 97%. So you think it is OK to have Li-Ion sitting at 95% or 97% for prolonged periods?
Also, in this banter, is anyone factoring the effect of temperature?5% buffer based on capacity, or voltage. What are you basing your assertion that the car is sitting at 97% on (a fictional B U battery).Come on this is pub talk!
This paper tests SoC against temperature for calendar degredation (baseline) versus regenerative braking degredation. It's an interesting read and answers your question.Also, in this banter, is anyone factoring the effect of temperature?
A week at 40 degrees C must be the same as what a year at 5 degrees C???? 😁😁😁
So was I correct, ie a few days at 5 drgs C is the same as a year at 40 ?This paper tests SoC against temperature for calendar degredation (baseline) versus regenerative braking degredation. It's an interesting read and answers your question.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiBgarbmZnuAhUaQUEAHZ39Di8QFjAGegQIDBAC&url=https://www.mdpi.com/2032-6653/7/1/41/pdf&usg=AOvVaw3l1aHxU_nwfYaygz8u8UOK
To summarize:
"4.5 Optimal Operating Conditions Our study shows that cyclic aging increases with lower temperature and calendar aging increases with higher temperature. Thus, an optimization is necessary to minimize the aging of a Li-ion battery. During storage periods, temperature should be kept low to reduce calendar aging. When cycling the battery, especially when charging the battery, a higher temperature should be established to minimize aging due to lithium plating. When charging the battery for a longer time at low temperature, current rates should be kept low to reduce lithium plating."
I'd like to see at least one other independent study which corroborates the finding in this paper that age related degradation is slightly less at 100% charge than 80%. Can anyone find any unrelated research drawing the same conclusion ? Otherwise it could be a case of picking one piece of evidence that happens to agree with a certain view point.It does depend on electrode composition and electrolyte chemistry. If you are interested there is a peer reviewed article here:
In the results and discussion, this is quite interesting. "Cells stored in a discharged state below 20% SoC exhibit the least capacity fade. Storage levels between 20% and 50% SoC cause a medium degradation rate. The fastest capacity fade occurs at a SoC interval between 60% and 90%. A fully charged cell, however, shows a somewhat slower capacity fade again."
So from that experiment, it found that keeping the battery at or below 60% gave the lowest rate of degradation. In reality, the car would probably have fallen apart from age before serious degradation would be an issue.![]()
Not quite. You can look at the graphs and interpolate the data though.So was I correct, ie a few days at 5 drgs C is the same as a year at 40 ?