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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've noticed sometimes my car will stop charging after a couple of hours / +30 miles or so on my home 7kw charger - which is frustrating after returning from a long trip, then finding out the next morning that it didn't recharge properly.

Before I go to my local dealer and swap it for the ZS ICE (as these things are generally impossible to diagnose, so you might as well just swap it out), is there a charge timer feature or something I might have missed that can cause this issue?

The car starts charging as soon as you plug it in, so it isn’t the Rolec issue of not waking up.
 

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Before I go to my local dealer and swap it for the ZS ICE
I've not noticed nor read in the manual that there is any form of charge timing on the MG EZS. Why would you swap it for the ICE version? It's still under warranty and if there's anything wrong with it you can get it fixed or reject it if they don't.

I'm damn certain that barring the inability to buy one, I would never drive an ICE again. Awful noisy, smelly, vibraty things that they are. Hate even to be a passenger in one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Because MG will say “no fault found” (as it charges fine sometimes), and the charger operator is useless.

It’s probably something to do with how the two communicate - there’s most likely nothing wrong with either, but type 2 implementations vary wildly.

It is genuinely easier to get a new car and chuck petrol in it than go back and forth trying to sort it.
 

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So reject it and buy a different EV with a better reputation. But, please, take a moment to consider the backward step it is to decide to go ICE. :eek: :(:(
 
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Your 7 kw wall box should give you approx 25 miles of range for every hour on charge.
There is NO timed delay charge facility built into the car itself.
What wall box do you have and how old is the unit, is it the newer “Smart” type unit ?.
Have you an “App” on your phone that allows delayed charging ?.
Does the car just stop charging, or is the circuit breaker that protects the wall box tripping the breaker ?.
Have you tried charging on the “Granny” charger to rule out a problem with the car ?.
Or you could try charging on a public 7kw post to eliminate a problem with the car ?.
If you take it to the dealer, the first thing they will do is try charging it on their wall box, if this works correctly, they will be giving you the keys back !.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So reject it and buy a different EV with a better reputation. But, please, take a moment to consider the backward step it is to decide to go ICE. :eek: :(:(
I had a Model 3, it was terrible. I had a Zoe, it was fussy about charging, where else am I meant to go?

@Carty it’s an RFID activated thing at my apartment parking. I’ve had issues with it not starting sessions before, but usually once it’s started (which is clearly flagged on the charger itself) it’s never dropped a session part way through with any other EV I’ve tried on it (Zoe & Tesla). With the MG it just ends the session after an hour, sometimes. I’ve charged it off a granny just fine a few weeks back. I think that if I take it to MG, like you say, they’ll say “it’s fine” and send me on my way with a bill. The charging unit operator is f-ing useless, to the point I’ve previously threatened to just hack into the charger’s WiFi and reconfigure it myself. Like I say, I think the two parts of the puzzle are fine, but they don’t always fit together.
 
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If / when you are 100% certain that the ZS EV can charge successfully from a different / public wall box, then surely it has to be the charge box problem at your home address as you suspect.
I would be totally gutted to be backed into a corner that meant I had to consider going back to an ICE car, just for the sake of one temperamental wall box !.
 

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I wonder if something is getting overheated, and cutting out to be safe. Could you get yourself a 16Amp charging lead, and see if that works okay?
 

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Is there an emergency stop button on the charger? Might it be a third-party activating it for devilment?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If / when you are 100% certain that the ZS EV can charge successfully from a different / public wall box, then surely it has to be the charge box problem at your home address as you suspect.
I would be totally gutted to be backed into a corner that meant I had to consider going back to an ICE car, just for the sake of one temperamental wall box !.
Agree. This isn’t the first issue I’ve had with that wall box like I say - but this one is specific to the MG. I think it’s ultimately the wall box being dodgy and not communicating the way the car wants it to - but nigh on impossible to diagnose and rectify due to the charging provider washing their hands of it, and the building management not being qualified or interested.

Powerline adapters?
Not as far as I’m aware. It’s in a car park, it has its own circuit I believe.

Is there an emergency stop button on the charger? Might it be a third-party activating it for devilment?
No physical buttons at all - certainly no way to stop a charge.

I wonder if something is getting overheated, and cutting out to be safe. Could you get yourself a 16Amp charging lead, and see if that works okay?
16A? My granny is 13(?) and the type 2 is 32A. Are you talking about a Commando etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@Tandy0 What difference would that be to my 32A cable? Genuine question. I’m not keen on spending money on cables or diagnosis when a new car is effectively £0 after trade in 😁
 

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@Tandy0 What difference would that be to my 32A cable? Genuine question. I’m not keen on spending money on cables or diagnosis when a new car is effectively £0 after trade in 😁
It would limit the current to 16 Amps, so possibly not cause something in the charger to overheat and cut out
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’m going to try and get the error log from the management to discover the root cause - if it’s an overheat that’s a good idea 👍
 

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I’m going to try and get the error log from the management to discover the root cause - if it’s an overheat that’s a good idea 👍
Hmm. I suspect you may be crediting 'management' with more expertise than they have. :)

Just get the cable and try it, IIWY.
 

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It would limit the current to 16 Amps, so possibly not cause something in the charger to overheat and cut out
Surely it wouldn’t - the cable itself doesn’t control the charging current. If the car can take 32A and the charger provide it, you’ll just melt a 16A cable.
 
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Surely it wouldn’t - the cable itself doesn’t control the charging current. If the car can take 32A and the charger provide it, you’ll just melt a 16A cable.
Cables have a resistor built into both ends, which indicates their current rating, to car & charger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think the charger screen actually displays the amperage.

Still, on the plus side, at least it hasn’t billed me for any of my usage over the last 6 months.
 

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If you live near Cambridge you're welcome to come and try out my Ohme charger, I'm sure we can figure out the transport arrangements.
 
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