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Discussion Starter #1
Well we are still plodding on...

Currently since the car has been back in and had the updates reapplied it now charges on High Power Chargers at the Full Speed (77Kw), but still has issues on 50KW Chargers (Throttles after it warms up)

Personally seems like the Battery Cooling is not working properly, as during charging the battery heats up till it gets to 34c where the battery cooling cuts in. At that point the cooling pumps start going but the battery keeps getting hotter and hotter, and the coolant does not seem to do anything.

Was thinking maybe the impeller in the coolant pump was not working but more and more tests and it works better on cooler days worse on warmer days, with the coolant temp staying around ambient temp. So starting to think the Coolant for the Battery cooling is not being refrigerated the way it should be and the system is just pumping ambient water around.

So Now for example, Charge on a 100Kw charger, Battery heats up to 46c + Depending on weather, does not cool down at all during charging, and it takes 90mins plus of driving on the motorway with the Battery Maintenance on using 5% of the used driving trip power to cool it back down to sensible temps

FOR CLARITY
RED LINE - Max Battery Cell Temp
BLUE LINE - Min Battery Cell Temp
GREY LINE - Coolant Temp

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Charge on a 50Kw charger Battery heats up to 40c + depending on weather, does not cool down during charging, and takes an hour plus of driving on the motorways with Battery Maintenance on using 5% of available power to cool it back down to sensible temps

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Battery Care now runs for hours, trying to cool the battery after a charge (Never seen it before this all started)

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SO THE SITUATION NOW IS

Hyundai are picking our car up from the dealer and taking it to Tilbury Docks so they can test it alongside the other Konas they have there to see if it performs differently, which seems odd when they have the temp charts and the dealer has multiple Konas on site to test it against.

So we have to drive the car 150 Miles to the Supplying dealer who will loan us a Kona, Hyundai will then Flatbed Our Kona 400 Miles to Tilbury Docks (Driving past our house in the process)... They will test the car for a week and then flatbed it 400 miles to the dealer. (Again driving past our house).. Where we will have to go to pick it up

We have proposed to them why not get the flatbed to pick up the loan car from the dealer and bring it to us, swap that for our car and carry on to Tilbury, Still waiting to see if thats acceptable but not holding out a lot of hope.

Will update with any info on what they find.

As I say my money is now on Refrigerant failure in the Battery Cooling side of the system (Car AC Still works fine)
 

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Getting a more local dealer to do this would make much more sense and save them money on the flatbed as its charged per miles isnt it for flatbedding normally.

Wonder what the cause is and with your mileage that cooling circuit is working hard during charges so could be an indicator for others as the miles climb more like an average drivers, what issues could lay ahead.

Your doing on average one rapid a day as well im guessing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Getting a more local dealer to do this would make much more sense and save them money on the flatbed as its charged per miles isnt it for flatbedding normally.

Wonder what the cause is and with your mileage that cooling circuit is working hard during charges so could be an indicator for others as the miles climb more like an average drivers, what issues could lay ahead.

Your doing on average one rapid a day as well im guessing?
The local dealerships are all unable to supply a loan car, and if Hyundai supply a car it will be from Thrifty Rental and a small Petrol not suitable for our work. Only the supplyin dealership has been willing and helpful in supplying a like for like EV

We did notice last summer the rapid charging was not as good as in cooler weather but was hit and miss, this summer its just all miss. last year the Cooling pups used to cluck as it cut in and hiss as it depressurised after cooling that no longer happens

About 4 rapids a week, we tend to rapid from 20% to 75% on a normal charge
 

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As I say my money is now on Refrigerant failure in the Battery Cooling side of the system (Car AC Still works fine)
Does the Kona change the flow direction with valves in the coolant system or is the battery cooling an entirely independent system with its own mini AC system?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Does the Kona change the flow direction with valves in the coolant system or is the battery cooling an entirely independent system with its own mini AC system?
I Really dont know, I hope someone else does. The Cars AC has always worked when the car is cooling but I dont the ins and outs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You're doing a good job of stress testing the Kona for Hyundai. They should be paying you for this hard work!
You might say that but we did exactly the same daily routine in a 40kw Zoe (With just basic air cooling for the battery) and that handled it in its stride, so it should be a walk in the park for the 64kw Kona.
 

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I Really dont know, I hope someone else does. The Cars AC has always worked when the car is cooling but I dont the ins and outs.
This article explains the cooling system - hope it helps

John

 
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Discussion Starter #9
This article explains the cooling system - hope it helps

John

Thanks

yes forgot about that document


Three coolant loop modes
The three modes (Heating, LTR or Low Temperature Radiator, and Chiller) correspond to the three different computer-controlled valve settings and coolant flow diagrams.

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Which would fit with my thoughts of the Chiller not working.

So still working in Neating and LTR Modes but the valves not allowing Low Temp Chiller Mode
 
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I'm intrigued as to why it doesn't throttle based on temperature on the higher power units, only on the lower powered ones. Seems backwards given the additional heat generated at higher power levels.
 

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I'm intrigued as to why it doesn't throttle based on temperature on the higher power units, only on the lower powered ones. Seems backwards given the additional heat generated at higher power levels.
Maybe something to do with the Cooling cutting in straight away on the HPCs as soon as you plug in, where on the 50Kw it only starts to cool as temp rises which triggers a throttle, but I dont know stabbing in the dark.... What supports this is I did a charge on an ABB 50Kw unit yesterday when the ambient was only 14c and it actually charged as normal but the temp did go high and took 2 hours to cool afterwards.. so maybe its related to the starting temp

Really dont know, but as sure as eggs are eggs I am convinced its a fault in the Chiller Mode not chilling the battery for rapid cooling.

As an Engineer I am interested but as I trained as an Aero Engineer in Production testing and destructive testing its bit out of my league.
 

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Maybe something to do with the Cooling cutting in straight away on the HPCs as soon as you plug in, where on the 50Kw it only starts to cool as temp rises which triggers a throttle, but I dont know stabbing in the dark.... What supports this is I did a charge on an ABB 50Kw unit yesterday when the ambient was only 14c and it actually charged as normal but the temp did go high and took 2 hours to cool afterwards.. so maybe its related to the starting temp

Really dont know, but as sure as eggs are eggs I am convinced its a fault in the Chiller Mode not chilling the battery for rapid cooling.

As an Engineer I am interested but as I trained as an Aero Engineer in Production testing and destructive testing its bit out of my league.
Good point about cooling on the HPCs. Maybe it's as simple as a faulty thermostat on the chiller.
 

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Which would fit with my thoughts of the Chiller not working.

So still working in Neating and LTR Modes but the valves not allowing Low Temp Chiller Mode
Agreed, but more likely to be the EXV (electronic expansion valve) controlling the refrigerant flow to the chiller than the chiller itself.
 

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Is there an equivalent of Leafspy for the Kona? It might have valve status on the chiller. Stuck valve or switch to the valve being faulty are likely scenarios.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is there an equivalent of Leafspy for the Kona? It might have valve status on the chiller. Stuck valve or switch to the valve being faulty are likely scenarios.
No there are a few apps but they don't give hugely detailed info like that. Just monitor temps and voltages etc
 

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I had issues with the battery getting pretty hot when I used a 50kw charger for the first time after my update. Battery cooling did not come on. However, it seems that the reason why it didn't come on was because my car was on. I tried again with the car off and Battery Cooling kicked in immediately.. Not sure why it would not kick on when the car was turned on. I just had another 50kw session yesterday and battery cooling came on after the first 10% of charge I was getting. I do monitor Intake AIR with Torque Pro. Outside air temperature was about 92 F/34C.. You could see the intake air temperatiure (Battery Inlet Temperature) gadually drop to 64 degrees F (17 C) and it stayed at 64 degree intake temperature for the rest of the session.. I started at about 45kw and it gradually went to 48kw where it stayed until 76.5% and then it dropped to 35kw and I stopped charging.. I'm uploading right now a screen video of monitoring my car charging on a 50kw charger at the moment that battery cooling came on. If you watch the Battery inlet temperature, it drop gradually.. The Battery cooling seems to pull about 2.5 kw. The numbers displayed in Torque Pro were 2.5 kw below what my dash and the charger showed.. so, if it showed 45.5 kw, the charger and dash showed 48 kw.
 

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That sounds like it's following correctly (although it should work when car is on)

Mine goes up to 38c on a 50kw with 17c ambient and stays there does not come down till you have driven for a couple of hours

On a 100kw charger with 26c ambient it hit 46c at which point I stopped it as I didn't want to damage the battery
 

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This video shows nicely how Battery cooling kicked in. Bottom right is the battery intake air temp.
I also show temperature on all 4 battery Modules. Module 4 is always the hottest.
It goes up to 100.4 degrees and stays there.. That's just over 39C
 

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A question to ask here is what happens when you turn the car on after the battery cooling process starts? Does it stop or continue?
Certainly something that @stageshoot can give the dealer for the investigation if he can replicate this behaviour. Sounds like it could a programming bug now.
 
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