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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1 year old e-Niro was serviced a month ago, fully charged up. I drove 6 miles to a sport centre and came back after 3 hours. I started the car, all electronic system were on, but I couldn't engaged forward or reverse driver, though I could engage 'park'.
Here is some further info:
. The car was locked and no electric equipment was on other than the theft alarm.
. The 12 V battery low warning came up on my UVO app. But all systems could power up.
. The orange ' key detection' light remained on.
. I could operate the doors using my smart key.
. The car can be powered up and down.
. I contacted Kia. Their advice was to recover the car to a Kia garage.
Help please.
 

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Get the 12v battery on charge. It powers everything when the engine isn't running. It may be at reduced voltage and stopping some systems from working properly. A jump start from any other car with a 12v battery might get it running if it's an emergency and the 12v battery is at fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Get the 12v battery on charge. It powers everything when the engine isn't running. It may be at reduced voltage and stopping some systems from working properly. A jump start from any other car with a 12v battery might get it running if it's an emergency and the 12v battery is at fault.
Thank you for your prompt response. I will once I can get the car back home. The 12 V battery was fully charged as the car was connected to a charger continuously before I started my journey. Also, I had the help of a friend who connected a jump lead to my 12 V battery. I still couldn't engage the car to drive.
 

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E-Niro 64kWh '4' since 9/20 (was Prius)
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Long shot, but try holding the fob very close to the start button whilst starting. Don’t forget to have foot on brake firstly too. Peter
 

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Long shot, but try holding the fob very close to the start button whilst starting. Don’t forget to have foot on brake firstly too. Peter
That's a solution for the wrong problem - how to start the car when your key battery is flat, relying on an RFID chip in the key. SInce OP can operate the doors "with the smartkey", I'd assume the key battery is OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you guys for your input. I have checked that the 12 V battery voltage was fine, the smart key battery was fine too as it can operate all remote functions.
The latest is that the problem seems to go away on its own. Here are some more detail.
I just managed to get the car home. Here is my experience and what I found from speaking to someone who had similar problem.
Apparently, the car's computer decided that the car should be immobilised (against theft, perhaps, but I cannot understand why). The more I tried to start the car, the longer the computer remained in that condition. The solution is to walk away from the car and wait at least 15 minutes. As it happened, I went home leaving the car overnight where it was. I went there a couple of hours ago, the car behaved absolutely normally.
I am coming to learn the quirks of the car's software control logics. It's a pity that there is no error message on the car or through UVO. I guess we just have to learn by trial and error. Forum like this is very useful.
Thank you once again.
 

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That's a solution for the wrong problem - how to start the car when your key battery is flat, relying on an RFID chip in the key. SInce OP can operate the doors "with the smartkey", I'd assume the key battery is OK.
I know. I said it was along shot. I was thinking that if there was a fault somewhere in the keyless transponder system (either in the fob or in the car) or maybe it was swamped by some strong local RF interference, then using the near field RFID chip as an entirely separate autonomous startup authorisation system might just have worked to get the car going again. In desperate situations like this isn’t everything worth a shot?

There are 3 separate systems built into the keyless fob.……
Remote transmitter key press locking/unlocking (Requires battery)
Transponder smart key system (Requires battery)
RFID near field transponder chip (Does not require battery)

Strangely the op seems to have got it going now, which is good. I don’t understand what went wrong though. Unless it was lack of foot on brake 🤣 Human error.
Peter
 
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I once had a fancy pants Subaru Impreza Turbo (I know, I know) and that refused to start after an MOT 10+ years ago. The immobiliser would not allow it to start. The problem turned out to be it was too close to a nearby cell tower, the staff and I pushed it across the lot and it started normally. Apparently they'd seen it before at that site. Maybe it's something like that, though I'm really clutching at straws now.
 

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Not quite the same issue but I had a Kona that refused to recognise the key (an almost new one). Neither the buttons on the fob or the keyless entry buttons worked. Managed to get in with the emergency key which set the alarm off, but then powered up fine once key held near the button. I suspect local interference as issue never occurred again.
 

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This is how my issues with my Niro started. Car had a fauly that the RAC cleared, but the problem kept happening and I am now waiting 2 months for a new battery.
A few people on here suggested making sure the battery is charge to 100% at least once a month, and that might help.
 

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Thank you guys for your input. I have checked that the 12 V battery voltage was fine, the smart key battery was fine too as it can operate all remote functions.
The latest is that the problem seems to go away on its own. Here are some more detail.
I just managed to get the car home. Here is my experience and what I found from speaking to someone who had similar problem.
Apparently, the car's computer decided that the car should be immobilised (against theft, perhaps, but I cannot understand why). The more I tried to start the car, the longer the computer remained in that condition. The solution is to walk away from the car and wait at least 15 minutes. As it happened, I went home leaving the car overnight where it was. I went there a couple of hours ago, the car behaved absolutely normally.
I am coming to learn the quirks of the car's software control logics. It's a pity that there is no error message on the car or through UVO. I guess we just have to learn by trial and error. Forum like this is very useful.
Thank you once again.
Now there’s a thing. The exact same thing happened to me this morning. Brand new Kia NIRO EV 3 and would not engage drive or reverse and dashboard lit up like a puggy machine. Sat in car scratching head - what’s different, what did I do last? Nothing…..
I pre-warmed the car ( chilly morning ) yesterday and also this morning, so no change there. I charged the car at a public charger yesterday and have done this before, so no change there, etc.
Nothing in manual about resetting the 12v but I think that might be a hybrid car thing. Kia Connect App suggests all ok.

Came across this post and was exact same issue so I applied your logic and waited a while. Bingo!

Car did have a symbol on dash that would be the immobiliser one ( orange car with key symbol inside ) but then most of the dash symbols were on including red battery one - maybe I couldn’t see the woods for the trees.

So…the $64,000 question may be obvious. Did it happen again, did you find out why it happened?

My commute was about twice as long as hit traffic normally avoided by leaving early and my desk drawers on the office have broken. All in all not a great start to Friday 👀
 

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Now there’s a thing. The exact same thing happened to me this morning. Brand new Kia NIRO EV 3 and would not engage drive or reverse and dashboard lit up like a puggy machine. Sat in car scratching head - what’s different, what did I do last? Nothing…..
I pre-warmed the car ( chilly morning ) yesterday and also this morning, so no change there. I charged the car at a public charger yesterday and have done this before, so no change there, etc.
Nothing in manual about resetting the 12v but I think that might be a hybrid car thing. Kia Connect App suggests all ok.

Came across this post and was exact same issue so I applied your logic and waited a while. Bingo!

Car did have a symbol on dash that would be the immobiliser one ( orange car with key symbol inside ) but then most of the dash symbols were on including red battery one - maybe I couldn’t see the woods for the trees.

So…the $64,000 question may be obvious. Did it happen again, did you find out why it happened?

My commute was about twice as long as hit traffic normally avoided by leaving early and my desk drawers on the office have broken. All in all not a great start to Friday 👀

Did you see the other guy that posted with an EV 4 this morning? Sounds like the same problem to me and the same "solution":

Hello,

Niro EV has been brilliant the past 2 weeks, however this morning it won’t start. The system turns on, but I can’t shit into drive or reverse. It’s as if the system can’t sense my foot on the break. Battery at 60%.

I’ve tried the spare key fob and also tried plugging the car in to charge a bit, but all to no avail.

Has anyone else had similar issues?

Regards
GF
 

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I wonder whether this is an issue with ambient temperature drop ? But OP states in May so maybe not ? Has anyone had this occur more than once ? Like @greenfalco and @VT 44 I’m not sure a visit to the garage would be useful if not able to replicate the issue. Only if it turns up in a diagnostic I guess but again if intermittent this may not show and be a waste of my and the garages time.
 

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I just posted in the other thread that this has happened to me twice. Quickest way for me to resolve was to disconnect/reconnect the negative battery terminal, basically the old turn it off and back on again fix.
 

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My 1 year old e-Niro was serviced a month ago, fully charged up. I drove 6 miles to a sport centre and came back after 3 hours. I started the car, all electronic system were on, but I couldn't engaged forward or reverse driver, though I could engage 'park'.
Here is some further info:
. The car was locked and no electric equipment was on other than the theft alarm.
. The 12 V battery low warning came up on my UVO app. But all systems could power up.
. The orange ' key detection' light remained on.
. I could operate the doors using my smart key.
. The car can be powered up and down.
. I contacted Kia. Their advice was to recover the car to a Kia garage.
Help please.
Hi,

I'm having the same problem with my one month old Niro EV.

I've sent a remote command via the app to start climate control about 6 time over the last month. Twice, after trying to start the vehicle the system came alive, but I could not engage forward or reverse, and the steering was inactive.

I tried stopping and starting several times, and also using the second key.

On both occasions leaving the system alone for 5-10 minutes solved the problem.

I will contact the dealer and see if this a reported problem across the range. Hopefully a software fix will become available.

One of the great features of the Niro is being able warm the car on a cold winter's morning. It's one of the reasons I bought it!
 

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There’s a rather bigger discussion thread about this same issue here…..
Peter
 
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