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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My flap from time to time has not locked shut when pushed closed. It got to the stage that 50% of the time it would not lock.

The workshop manual is not very helpful on this but by searching the net I found that the catch that the solenoid pulls just needs greasing with lithium grease, just like any other car door or boot lid catch/lock mechanism. This catch is pretty similar to a boot catch. The WD40 people do a spray on white lithium grease available from Screwfix etc. Don’t use the normal WD40.

Can post some pics if anyone is interested. No tools needed other than a spatula to pop out the rivets holding the 2 plastic covers around it.
 

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30KW Tekna (2017)
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LEAF 30 Or 40?

Deff interested to see what I need to do as will pop a bit on mine to stop any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Mine is a Mk 2 Leaf 24 but I doubt the later ones are much different.

Steps are:

1) Remove plastic rivets (pull the centre bit up before pulling the whole thing out) from these 2 covers, small one around charge port and large one front of engine bay. I found then quite tricky to separate from each other as are clipped together all along their join. Just gently "force them" apart. Possibly on later model may not need to remove the larger one but on mine can't remove the smaller without the large too. Don't remove the flap itself. It's probably a devil to align again if you loosen the wrong bolts.
140682




Then you have a filthy area needing cleaning. I used soap and water, avoiding too much around the electrics. Hopefully there is not actually any HV present if car is off and not charging.

140683


Then white lithium grease the pivot of the lever the cable pulls. Also do catch on the side with the spring. Check they are free to move after greasing. It is these failing to spring back properly that causes the locking problem.

I don't know where the solenoid that pulls the cable is and whether greasing this area is ever needed. Possibly not if it is well shielded from dirt.

A general light spray around the bare metal bits stops corrosion but there is the danger it picks up the dirt that blows in through the flap. I notice that garages tend to liberally spray white grease around door hinges and it picks up tons of dirt.

140684


I considered greasing this white plastic charge lead lock catch below too but decided not to as grease in the wrong place, like the solenoid that moves the catch, might do harm.

140685


But I did grease the bonnet catch and all other door and boot locks and hinges (don't need any dismantling for that),

I repeat don't use other than white lithium grease in spray or other form. The manual does not say what to use but web posters warn of non-suitable products like ordinary oil or grease. I guess silicone grease might work but I am not recommending it. The workshop manual is not helpful, sending you round and round the pages without telling you how to actually do the job. More aimed at changing the catch.
 

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Nissan LEAF30
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LEAF 30 Or 40?

Deff interested to see what I need to do as will pop a bit on mine to stop any problems.
Preventative maintenance. If only the NHS thought the same way .... ;)
 

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Minus 4 this morning so I though I'd charge and heat the car for an hour before driving off. Flap refused to open! I stood by the flap and pressed the remote key release whilst jiggling the flap and it opened. Due to leave at quarter to ten and I unplugged the charge lead and closed the flap - sprung up again! Rinse and repeat as they say ad nauseam...

Defrosted my X-Type and used that instead. When I got back an industrial hot air gun waved about for a few minutes recovered normal operation and (sin of sins) I sprayed ordinary WD40 around to try to prevent a repeat of the sticking. I have only once found WD40 failed to do whatever job I used it for and even then it did the job but did some damage at the same time. It was my sister in law's heating timer that was noisy. An old fashioned Venner mechanical mechanism with all brass movement that had simply dried up so WD40 was suitable. I didn't reckon with the fumes of the solvent attacking the circular moulded polycarbonate cover though. We stood and watched it cloud, craze, and disintegrate over a period of minutes! She never liked me anyway! :rolleyes: I'll probably remove the Leaf charge port covers as described and clean it all up and do a proper lubricating job, but not now, it's too damned cold! :eek:
 

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Minus 4 this morning so I though I'd charge and heat the car for an hour before driving off. Flap refused to open! I stood by the flap and pressed the remote key release whilst jiggling the flap and it opened. Due to leave at quarter to ten and I unplugged the charge lead and closed the flap - sprung up again! Rinse and repeat as they say ad nauseam...

Defrosted my X-Type and used that instead. When I got back an industrial hot air gun waved about for a few minutes recovered normal operation and (sin of sins) I sprayed ordinary WD40 around to try to prevent a repeat of the sticking. I have only once found WD40 failed to do whatever job I used it for and even then it did the job but did some damage at the same time. It was my sister in law's heating timer that was noisy. An old fashioned Venner mechanical mechanism with all brass movement that had simply dried up so WD40 was suitable. I didn't reckon with the fumes of the solvent attacking the circular moulded polycarbonate cover though. We stood and watched it cloud, craze, and disintegrate over a period of minutes! She never liked me anyway! :rolleyes: I'll probably remove the Leaf charge port covers as described and clean it all up and do a proper lubricating job, but not now, it's too damned cold! :eek:
Before the cold snap I spayed WD-40 Specialist High Performance Silicone Lubricant and wiped down on the rubber seals, suffered no refusing to open since. Same on boot and door seals. WD-40 Specialist High Performance Silicone Lubricant Smart Straw 400ml: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science
 

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I have some of that Jedispooner, but mine is not that brand. I also have some dry lubricant which is occasionally handy when oily transfers are undesirable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nothing wrong generally with WD40 in the short term but it is only a light mineral oil in a solvent and soon evaporates off leaving you with the same problem as before. Once worked in a Navy helicopter base and they sprayed gallons of the stuff inside the helicopters' fuselages. But that was to displace the sea water to stop corrosion.

I suspect that a quick fix of spraying white lithium through the gap in the plastic into the lock mechanism may work, but I'd recommend removing the plastic to do a proper job as then can clean out the dirt and really get to the pivots.
 

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2012 24kw upgraded to 40kw
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Mine is a Mk 2 Leaf 24 but I doubt the later ones are much different.

Steps are:

1) Remove plastic rivets (pull the centre bit up before pulling the whole thing out) from these 2 covers, small one around charge port and large one front of engine bay. I found then quite tricky to separate from each other as are clipped together all along their join. Just gently "force them" apart. Possibly on later model may not need to remove the larger one but on mine can't remove the smaller without the large too. Don't remove the flap itself. It's probably a devil to align again if you loosen the wrong bolts.
View attachment 140682



Then you have a filthy area needing cleaning. I used soap and water, avoiding too much around the electrics. Hopefully there is not actually any HV present if car is off and not charging.

View attachment 140683

Then white lithium grease the pivot of the lever the cable pulls. Also do catch on the side with the spring. Check they are free to move after greasing. It is these failing to spring back properly that causes the locking problem.

I don't know where the solenoid that pulls the cable is and whether greasing this area is ever needed. Possibly not if it is well shielded from dirt.

A general light spray around the bare metal bits stops corrosion but there is the danger it picks up the dirt that blows in through the flap. I notice that garages tend to liberally spray white grease around door hinges and it picks up tons of dirt.

View attachment 140684

I considered greasing this white plastic charge lead lock catch below too but decided not to as grease in the wrong place, like the solenoid that moves the catch, might do harm.

View attachment 140685

But I did grease the bonnet catch and all other door and boot locks and hinges (don't need any dismantling for that),

I repeat don't use other than white lithium grease in spray or other form. The manual does not say what to use but web posters warn of non-suitable products like ordinary oil or grease. I guess silicone grease might work but I am not recommending it. The workshop manual is not helpful, sending you round and round the pages without telling you how to actually do the job. More aimed at changing the catch.
Update for Gen1 (Japan built, 2012 and before). The plastic liner/interior is a one piece, with 4 plastic rivets holding it in place. To remove it, you need to remove the charging flap - 4x 10mm nuts. Before undoing these, trace around the brackets with a pen/pencil - so that you know where to re-attach it exactly. It's not entirely essential, but it'll help ensure the flap is lined up in it's original position upon re-assembly.
 

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Mine was refusing to open last year, had to click the button and pull the flap at the same time.

Hosed it with standard WD40 and worked it in with a few open/close cycles and its not given my any further issues.
 
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