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Discussion Starter #1
The other day I was parked in a car park which was on a slight incline. It was dark and cold and when I parked the main battery was on zero miles and the ICE had been running. My wife and I then went shopping and returned to the car around 1 hour later. We were on the way to visiting friends and were a little early so we decided to sit in the car for a few minutes before moving off. While sitting there I turned the car on/off around three times in the space of about 10-15 minutes to de-fog the windscreen.

When we decided it was time to go I turned the car on and thought no more of it until I released the parking brake manually for some reason and rolled down the incline (I normally let the car release it automatically). While this was happening I suddenly realised that there was no power steering and no brake servo so I quickly applied the parking brake again.

On inspection I had no petrol or battery gauge displayed on the main screen. I turned the car off and back on again but this time the screen was stuck at the "initialising" display when I pushed the blue button again it showed the usual display again with no gauges but this time with that pesky orange engine light on again. A second push turned the car off.

Turning the car off/on a further couple of times did not resolve the situation - same sequence as above. So now it was turn it off for the obligatory 10 or so minutes. Having done this normal service was resumed.

What is worrying about this is that without the servo it is quite difficult to stop/steer the car and had the slope been any greater there may have been a bigger problem.

It is not the first time I have noticed that turning the car off/on in a short time period causes problems. It has happened on 1 or 2 occasions when leaving home, when either I or my wife (or both of us) realise we have left something indoors that we meant to take with us.

Another software foible... I hope these get resolved with an update soon.
 

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Sounds scary and very annoying!

Something you might try if this ever happens again or to anyone else is to apply handbrake, turn off and get out of the car and lock it. Wait a few seconds and then unlock it and try again.

I have known that some issues with some EVs are only resolved if the car is shutdown and locked. I have no idea if this will work but when stuck it has to be worth a try :)
 

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Ray, I'm going to pipe in with something similar to what you are describing that happened in my third week of Volt ownership. I had pulled the car out of the way of my wife's vehicle pressed stop started to get out realized I hadn't moved the car enough pressed on, realized something else pressed off and then decided to move it after all. At this point the Volt wouldn't start and I couldn't move the gear selector. I can't remember if the brakes were working as it was only a gentle incline and I couldn't shift anyway. It was later determined by On Star that I had put the Volt into a maintenance mode of some sort meant for the service personal to use when working on the car. It disables most of features on the dash. About 20 minutes later On Star went over the sequence to get it back up and it has never happened again in more then a year. A similar experience happens for those of us trying to switch to Sport mode while driving pressing the wrong ON/OFF button twice in a row which turns off the Volt. Eventually you learn the car and avoid the situations.

Ross

EDIT This happened in Dec. 2011 with my then new 2012 Volt.
 

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Are people letting the car fully start up before turning off and then waiting a few seconds before turning on again?

It strikes me that this is not a car we are interfacing with but a computer, or more accurately, several computers. It is always advisable to leave a computer to finish starting up before shutting down and I wonder if turning on and off in this way could be confusing the computer?

I always let both my cars fully start up before I shut them down. It means I have to wait a few seconds extra sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Paul,

I agree in principal with what you say but how can we tell its completed it startup? there are no visual indications or clues that you can use.

Having said that I can boot/shutdown/boot/restart/... my Windows 7 64 bit system with no problems at all. I think the issue is that when you turn the car off as we have all (I think) found out it takes 10 minutes to shutdown. Now if the little blue button was disabled when the car was not able to respond correctly then things may be OK. Again, however, this strikes me as a bit more sloppy programming.

Oh for a cold start reboot button... (perhaps)
 

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Good point. I just make sure that all the graphics and noises have finished moving or playing on start up or I wait a good 20 second after shutting down. I admit that this might not be long enough and yes, wthere should be some kind of "ready" indicator... your idea of not lighting the blue button would be a good solution.
 

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I had an interesting one a couple of days ago. I started in the cold (-3 degrees) and set off quite quickly. I immediately noticed that the heated seat lights were flashing and making a clicking noise. As I pulled up at some traffic lights I thought I would take advantage of the pause and switched off, waited a few seconds and went to restart. However, the car would not start and as fate would have it a load of cars were descending on me from behind. After putting on the emergency flashers I waited about 30 seconds and it restarted OK, but still with the seat light issue. I got home fine from that point and at home switched off totally for a couple of minutes and all was OK. I think Paul's point about interfacing with software is spot on. I had an incident with a Nissan Primera where I was told that it was a software issue in terms of me moving off before it had fully initiated. In future I am just a little more patient after pressing the start button!
 

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We had been driving for about 30 miles, on ICE, and at an uphill roundabout when the parking brake released the car cut out and started rolling backwards down the hill. While this was happening I realised that there was no power steering and no brake servo so I applied the parking brake again – luckily nothing was behind me!!!!

On inspection I had no petrol or battery gauge displayed on the main screen. I turned the car off and back on again but this time the screen was stuck at the "initialising" display when I pushed the blue button again it showed the usual display again with no gauges but this time with that pesky orange engine light on again. A second push turned the car off.

Turning the car off/on a further couple of times did not resolve the situation - same sequence as above. So now it was turn it off for the obligatory couple of minutes really what you want on a busy bank holiday weekend! Having done this normal service was resumed for a few miles until we reached the next roundabout when it died again – exactly the same. Wait three hours for the AA to send “specialist” who then followed me home with the car losing all drive every few miles or so – the very last one the AA man did a complete reset of the system by removing the 12v battery – which got me going again for the last few miles!!

Without power it's difficult to stop/steer the car and had the slope been steeper or a car behind me this could have been a much bigger problem.

Managed to get the car to the dealer but the car died when trying to reverse into parking bay.

Part was ordered from USA via Germany to UK but this didn’t fix the problem. Engine Control Module.

Car then taken to Luton for them to fix. Apparently could be problem with the battery system.

Still waiting – next update Tuesday or Thursday but that may be just to say more parts required!!

Another week passed and they are replacing more bits further update next week!
 

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Scary - good luck! :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
One other thing to note when trying to reset the car is that you do have to open the drivers door to get everything to switch off. So i would recommend turning the car off, getting out of the drivers door, locking the car, and then get back in and turn it on. This has worked for me on one or two occasions in the last 3.5 years. Hope that tip helps.
 

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One other thing to note when trying to reset the car is that you do have to open the drivers door to get everything to switch off. So i would recommend turning the car off, getting out of the drivers door, locking the car, and then get back in and turn it on. This has worked for me on one or two occasions in the last 3.5 years. Hope that tip helps.
Yep but doing that on a busy Friday afternoon on the A43 with the car broken down blocking the dual carriage way is not a nice experience!! :)

Even doing that and getting lorry and other drivers looking at me quite strange! It still keep giving "initialising" in the display - if i remember right it was about the third or forth time that the system (sorry car) had been re-booted (sorry started up or tried) :).

Well no update from Vauxhall today so far so I can only assume that the part fitted last week has also not sorted the problem. My car now in week 9 of its extended holiday in Luton!
 

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Well two more weeks on and still no car!

The bulkhead has been fitted this week and is waiting road testing etc. so the part that was to be fitted over two weeks ago had to come from Germany it appears! Monday is 12 weeks! Lets hope that that fixes the problem!!!!

I am in contact with the directors and the customer services people however does anyone have any idea at what stage I can reject the car, demand money back or better still replace the car. At 48 weeks and 9000 miles the car died and its taking 12 weeks+ to fix!!
 

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Ampera has returned from Vauxhall and they found a "trapped" wire between the "Power Inverter Module" and the "Manual Service Disconnect" (interlock fuse) - hence why the car would just die, no drive!
Happy to be driving the car again - surprised how quickly you become used to driving an Electric and when you return to a none Electric car - you feel like one of the Flintstones!!
 

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Bet they were glad when they found that! Great to hear you're back up and running again and that it's not a fault that's likely to occur elsewhere (hopefully)...
 

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I'm glad they found that too. Nothing like an intermittent fault to destroy your faith in a car.

A good solid 'fix' to a problem is what you need. Cars go wrong, that in itself is very rarely a big issue for owners, it's about handling the service/repair properly and getting a clean result which shows what happened, and that it isn't going to happen again.

Sometimes dealers seem to completely forget this ... if they every knew it in the first place.
 

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Just though I would post an update 6000+ miles later and the cars still running like a dream.

Just completed a trip to Dorset managed to get 60 MPG from the generator including sitting in queues on the A303, A30 & A35 and running on Electric got some strange looks from people as i was moving and not making any sounds - assume they haven't seen an EV before. Arrived with the same charge as I left home with.

Now that's impressive.

Still have one or two problems with the Information System - but hay just live with them now!!

Faith almost fully restored
 

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Excellent work :) The 60mpg probably comes from going slowly in queues, rather than doing 60-70mph...
 
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70mph on M40, A34 some of A303, A30 and A35 plus lots of queues and at times stationary/ 2 MPH especially at Stonehenge for almost 40 minutes just so others could look at it and take pictures :-( but at least I was on Electric :).

Come home across country not much driving at 70 mostly under 60 and through Swindon still manage 56MPG.
 
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