[Andy-Zoé-User]

Hi all, was just out in my 2013 Zoe ZE20 (22kw) today and done a HVAC check and engine off, compressor off, cabin fan off my AC refrigerant reads only 5 Bar - are we all thinking that's too low even though the compressor is not running?

Aircon seems to be all running as it should, nice freezing cold air blowing out on cold , hot air blowing out of vents on hot. Compressor is noisy, like a jet plane but then again it always has been.

If it does need filling up would I get away with going to my local Halfords and getting one of their refill kits? (I dont suppose it has the oil mixed in with it to lubricate the compressor) and I have never recharged an aircon system before, is it relatively easy?
Thanks,

which one to use?
R134a @ €66

AC Pro Auto Air Conditioning Recharge - Gas R134A | Halfords IE

Shop the latest Feeling the heat? Then you need this EZ Chill Auto Air Conditioning Recharge at Halfords IE

www.halfords.ie

OR

R1234yf @ €119.95

AC Pro R-1234yf Air-Con recharge | Halfords IE

Shop the latest STP R-1234yf Air-Con Recharge at Halfords IE

www.halfords.ie

if the system has r1234yf in it will the r134a mix ok with it or vice-versa ?

 

[Andy-Zoé-User]

Hi Andy, I've done it several times myself on my Q90. It's really easy and for a man with your skills it'll be a cool breeze. Halfords do AC/Pro, and used to do STP, both of these have the oil lubricants.
You attach the kit to the low pressure tap, which is on the drivers side (RHD) and can easily be identified by the valve being on the very thick metal pipe. The high pressure valve is on a thin metal pipe on the passenger side.
One thing I did do was get the valve sealant from Halfords which actually worked for me, and then did the Aircon top-up the next day.
My pressure reading went from 2.8 (compressor not kicking in at all for the heating) to 5.1..and then the heat pump worked fine (it was March I think).
Not had to top it up since. Compressor still sounds like a jet...albeit a Lear jet and not 747 now.

That is fantastic info - thank you for that . I reckon if i had to do it one day i would roll my sleeves up and give it a go. Never done it before, but you know I am willing. its dear enough stuff isnt it , but still must be cheaper getting the stuff and doing it myself.

I went out today and checked it with compressor on it reached 13 BAR and lovely ice cold air blowing out - so I may be OK for the moment but thank you ever so much for the info , that would be a great help

 

[Andy-Zoé-User]

First the coolant/refrigerant doesn't get consumed. So if the BAR reading is low its because refrigerant has leaked out. Refilling AC with a leak I believe is illegal. You must find and repair the leak before refilling.

"Refilling AC with a leak I believe is illegal" - if you are a garage / main dealer doing it for a customer?

 

[Andy-Zoé-User]

Hi Andy, give me a shout if you need any help. I actually did it at first as my heat pump wasn't coming on in winter as the pressure was too low. Below 5c and the PTC heater came on...but higher than that then heat pump refused to activate. The seals seem to wear a bit, or dry out, over age and it was recommended to me to put the sealer in first. It has worked very well. You'll see different people give bar pressures but it's all down to ambient temperature and humidity. I'm in Scotland and when it is 10c I get about 5 bar pressure before I activate the heating or AC...when running it gets up to 11 bar at ~7000 rpm.
Yes, the gas is expensive but better to pay for a full bottle than pay even more just for a "top-up"

brilliant thank you. I shall leave it for the while I think 5bar compressor off , 13bar with it on at 20c outside temp. Think it will be OK.
But appreciate the offer of help and advice thanks again

 

[Andy-Zoé-User]

13 bar when working hard is on the lowish side, I would expect 18-20. If I were you I would consider replacing the refrigerant indeed. And as indicated earlier, do absolutely use the R1234YF type.

While at it I would insist you / they also
1. add dye so if there is a small leak, you can detect it with a UV torch.
2. have the Schrader valves replaced. It's the most common leakage point and they cost next to nothing. If you hear a soft "psht" while unscrewing the blue plastic protection caps on the service ports you can be SURE there is a valve leak, but the reverse is not necessarily true.

thanks i shall investigate further

 

[Andy-Zoé-User]

Oops...good point about the Schrader valves. Mine had the minor leak noise but I just used my valve tool to tighten it and never had the leaky noise again.

As for the pressures, I just go with the guage...Scottish temperatures don't lend well to pressures over 12 bar when running full blast. Along as my heat pump works that all I care about.

have they got the same type of valve as a tyre / tube has in its valve ?