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2020 Vauxall Corsa E
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just traded my LEAF for a Corsa E. That means, at least, a change from the type 1 connector to Menekkes II. Current installation pod point with tethered connector.

Podpoint want nearly £500 just to change the connector, so I thought it was a good time to get a smarter charger to go with my Agile tariff and solar installation. So I took a look round and have been talking the chargedev.

Now they don't want to send anyone around until they are confident they can complete an installation, so I've sent them a bunch of pictures and diagrams of my current electrics. One fatal problem. There's no earth strap by my stop-cock. The mains water feed is in my bathroom boxed in behind the toilet. There's about 4' of copper pipe around the stop cock which is coupled to the rest of the water system through a plastic joint. You can't normally even touch that pipe. But it doesn't matter. Latest regulations say it must be earthed. And if I can't show it's earthed they can't do the work. Never mind that I have quarry tiles down in the bathroom and getting under floor access would involve pretty much wrecking my bathroom.

Now I can think of two solutions.

  • Drill a hole in the bathroom wall and run an earth wire round the outside of the building to another hole and thence to the meter cupboard.
  • Personally disconnect the PodPoint unit and replace it with a Commando socket, plug in an OHME cable. It's on a typical piece of armoured cable.
The electrician I've used before has let me down. The firm I talked to this afternoon wanted £300 to make a report on the state of my electrics. I don't need a report, I certainly don't need a list of expensive improvements. I need a wire.

I'll probably phone round a few more electricians tomorrow, be great if I could talk to an actual electrician.

Opinions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Or just change the feathered cable?
Where would I get one? But in terms of electrical work that's slightly more hairy than replacing the unit. I presume there are more wires to get right.
 

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2014 Model S
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Adapters aren't a good idea. This is why I chose a socketed charger as type 1 and 2 were common so it was impossible to decide which would win then.

Get someone to change the tethered lead to a type 2 socket? They might not need to poke around as much. But I'd make sure you have extra earthing at the charger end so the non earthed stop cock won't be an issue.

It's coming up to Christmas so I'd think you'd struggle to get anyone to do anything at the moment.
 

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Or just change the feathered cable?
A type 2 tethered cable is less than £80 and five minutes to install. Surely the way to go?

PodPoint are reportedly working on improving their product so maybe it's premature to move now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A type 2 tethered cable is less than £80 and five minutes to install. Surely the way to go?

PodPoint are reportedly working on improving their product so maybe it's premature to move now?
How many conductors are in use in a charging connector, how equivalent are those on type 1 vs. type 2? Live, neutral and Earth I'm confident with. If I get that wrong I'll just blow the circuit breaker. If I get the connector wrongly connected who knows?
 

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Anyone tried This single unit adapter

Might serve until I can get a more complete solution
Yes, I went from Leaf to eNiro and am using this. It works. Slightly more faff as you need to remove it before stowing the cable back in the EVSE, and then put it somewhere, but it fits in the arm rest ok. I only need to use it about once a week, or even less in summer as I’ll used the portable EVSE to peak shave from my solar panels during the day and rarely need a 6kw charge rate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, I went from Leaf to eNiro and am using this. It works. Slightly more faff as you need to remove it before stowing the cable back in the EVSE, and then put it somewhere, but it fits in the arm rest ok. I only need to use it about once a week, or even less in summer as I’ll used the portable EVSE to peak shave from my solar panels during the day and rarely need a 6kw charge rate.
OK, I'll get one of those for an instant fix. May arrange something neater at leisure.
 

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Where would I get one? But in terms of electrical work that's slightly more hairy than replacing the unit. I presume there are more wires to get right.
No, much easier to change. If you can change a plug, you could change the tethered lead. EvBitz can sell you what you need.
 

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[QUOTE="Soupdragon, post: 2928525, member: fatal problem. There's no earth strap by my stop-cock. The mains water feed is in my bathroom boxed in behind the toilet. There's about 4' of copper pipe around the stop cock which is coupled to the rest of the water system through a plastic joint. You can't normally even touch that pipe. But it doesn't matter. Latest regulations say it must be earthed. And if I can't show it's earthed they can't do the work. Never mind that I have quarry tiles down in the bathroom and getting under floor access would involve pretty much wrecking my bathroom.

Now I can think of two solutions.

  • Drill a hole in the bathroom wall and run an earth wire round the outside of the building to another hole and thence to the meter cupboard.
  • Personally disconnect the PodPoint unit and replace it with a Commando socket, plug in an OHME cable. It's on a typical piece of armoured cable.
The electrician I've used before has let me down. The firm I talked to this afternoon wanted £300 to make a report on the state of my electrics. I don't need a report, I certainly don't need a list of expensive improvements. I need a wire.
[/QUOTE]
Assuming you can disconnect outside you could replace the stop cock with a plastic one with plastic pipes.
 

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evbitz.uk supply components like cables & plugs etc.
Whoops, missed fact that this has been suggested above. I've heard about Earth Rods being fitted to earth externally-installed EVSEs. Maybe ask your sparky if that's possible here? There seem to be several ways the earthing etc can be done, not my area tho'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Assuming you can disconnect outside you could replace the stop cock with a plastic one with plastic pipes.
Apparently that won't cut it. The earthing requirement only goes away if the water companies pipe is plastic.
 

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How many conductors are in use in a charging connector, how equivalent are those on type 1 vs. type 2? Live, neutral and Earth I'm confident with. If I get that wrong I'll just blow the circuit breaker. If I get the connector wrongly connected who knows?
There are up to two others in a tethered type 2 cable - a control pilot and a sometimes a proximity pilot. If you buy a decent lead they will be labelled, and the worse that will happen if you transpose them is the EVSE will not recognise the car. This is by far the simplest solution although it does not instantly give you support for Agile or complete compliance with the latest regulations.
 

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Wiring on Type 1 & Type 2 is essentially the same as far as I can see. Big difference is Type 1 is restricted to 16A max. But you can chop off a Type 1 plug & put a Type 2 on, and vice-versa, making sure you have the correct cable resistance current-checker still in there!
 

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@HandyAndy and I are looking at the opposite end of the cable - I was suggesting changing the lead and plug so that you only wire the new lead in. If you take @HandyAndy 's advice it'll be cheaper but you really need a crimping tool to crimp the terminals of the new plug on.

What I hadn't considered was whether your current charge point is 3.6kW or 7kw. If it is only 3.6kW it maybe able to output 7kW but you'd need advice on whether the current wiring is capable of providing the current. This may be why you want to upgrade the whole arrangement.
 

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Hmm, if existing is 3.6Kw unit, I personally wouldn't risk even trying to up it to 7 without a very careful look-see! Even if there's a simple switch inside to select 7Kw, all the CU wiring stuff to EVSE needs to be thick enough, all the RCBOs etc that may be inside the EVSE itself as well. And if there are relays on a PCB inside it, they may or may not be 30A capable. If the high power rails run along circuit board tracks, again these may not be up to 32A thickness of copper in the tracks, so I'd want to beef-up all the wiring paths. Safest to stick with 3.6 if that's what it is now. And I think it's unlikely to be a 7 Kw one, I thought Type 1 specs only caters for up to 16A.
 

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Hmm, if existing is 3.6Kw unit, I personally wouldn't risk even trying to up it to 7 without a very careful look-see! Even if there's a simple switch inside to select 7Kw, all the CU wiring stuff to EVSE needs to be thick enough, all the RCBOs etc that may be inside the EVSE itself as well. And if there are relays on a PCB inside it, they may or may not be 30A capable. If the high power rails run along circuit board tracks, again these may not be up to 32A thickness of copper in the tracks, so I'd want to beef-up all the wiring paths. Safest to stick with 3.6 if that's what it is now. And I think it's unlikely to be a 7 Kw one, I thought Type 1 specs only caters for up to 16A.
Nope, my type 1 tethered is 30amp, and I use that via the KOHNS adapter into my Niro at 6.6kw (y)
 
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