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Discussion Starter #1
Powered Solutions installed an Ohme charger for me (they were in too much of a hurry and the job far from the best I could have asked for). Look at the way the cable comes through the wall and the brickwork damage!!

The metal hanger thing they attached to the wall on which the type 2 cable hangs was cut and shaped from steel and the edges were very rough or sharp, so much so I was worried about them damaging the cable and causing fraying, or cutting open a finger!

All the metal edges were sharp, I drew a red ring just on some of them.
128598

The metal hanger really should be coated in some thick layer of plastic or rubbery stuff to prevent that. About ten minutes with a ba****d file rounded off the edges fairly well sufficient for me to be able to run my finger along the edge without risk of a deep jagged cut.

Just mine?
 

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Powered Solutions installed an Ohme charger for me (they were in too much of a hurry and the job far from the best I could have asked for). Look at the way the cable comes through the wall and the brickwork damage!!

The metal hanger thing they attached to the wall on which the type 2 cable hangs was cut and shaped from steel and the edges were very rough or sharp, so much so I was worried about them damaging the cable and causing fraying, or cutting open a finger!

All the metal edges were sharp, I drew a red ring just on some of them.
View attachment 128598
The metal hanger really should be coated in some thick layer of plastic or rubbery stuff to prevent that. About ten minutes with a ba****d file rounded off the edges fairly well sufficient for me to be able to run my finger along the edge without risk of a deep jagged cut.

Just mine?
Makes you wonder if these people take pride in their work. Not impressed with that install.
Be interesting to hear what others have to say.
 
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Not very sensible having the cable heading down towards the hole into the wall. Why have they not covered it or filled the hole with silicone?
In terms of the blowout where the hole comes out, what is the surface like on the inside as the alternative is to drill the other way?
I presume that you have read the reviews that say that water can pool on the top and work its way past the gland? Is it under cover or are you going to provide one?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
fortunately, the charger is a in a sort of front car port so is not open to the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am going to be moving the Ohme down to be central, and move the hanger down to below the Ohme and also central - the door partly visible on the right is a bike door and when you open it it bangs the cable heavily.

After a lot of searching I found that a listing on Wish for a variety pack of brick/cement permanent pigments, so I can make up some filler which matches the brick and fill the holes.
 

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Yeah - You appear to have been a little unlucky here Paul.
The hole for the cable is ALMOST in the centre of the mortar line of the brick work.
Most installers of cables ( Sky etc ) will always drill from the inside to the outside of the house.
They almost ALWAYS take this option, because drilling from the outside to the inside, they are unsure where the hole is likely to break through on the inside of the property, and will almost certainly blow a large chunk of the plaster off the internal wall !.
If customers check for mess and damage, they look behind the T.V.
They never go outside to check the damage to their brick work.
I have seen the entire face of bricks blown off in certain circumstances.
My guess here is the installer, drilled through from the outside to the inside with a smaller pilot drill, yes I am liking that.
But then came back with a larger drill that would carry the cable, and then followed his pilot hole and drilled from the inside to the outside.
When the larger drill broke through, it "nicked" the edge of the brick and burst the face maybe ?.
Had he have just drilled through from the inside to the outside with a larger drill and the hole came out in the centre of a face brick, the damage could have been much worse.
Would I be happy if this was on the front of my house, not at all !.
When I walked passed this mess, my eye's would be drawn to the damage and drive me absolutely crazy every single time.
Would he / she be happy with this quality of installation on their own house ?.
If so, they are in the wrong job sorry.
Okay, so if it was my problem how would I try and improve on this situation ?.
Remember if your are taking on this type of work, you would need the necessary tooling, knowledge and skills to attempt this task !.
Disclaimer :-
Honestly, I am ONLY speaking for myself here @Paul M .
If it was me, I would CONSIDER relocating the Ohme.
After carrying out a lot of measuring, I would try and go for pitching in another cable entry hole HIGHER up that brick column.
Why would I be considering this method of rectification ?.
Okay, so by raising and centralising the Ohme, you are aiming to cover the damage to the face of the brick work of your house, by using the body of the Ohme to hide the damage when in it is installed in the new location.
That would be my focus.
So, after doing all your measuring etc.
You could ( after isolating the power to the Ohme of course ) disconnect the incoming cable and pull it back through the wall.
Then with the Ohme in your hand, try and reposition the unit so it covers the damage to the brick work etc.
You may end up with the lower fixing hole for the unit still showing ?.
If you decided to continue then great, if not just refit the unit back to its original location and reconnect.
Okay, so you are happy to relocate the Ohme and you have checked you have enough cable to reach the C.U. after the move.
How would I continue ?.
Being very carefully, I would drill a SMALL pilot hole for the cable entry point, from the outside and in the widest mortar joint, too the right of the central "T" cross that is suitable.
( An example of my suggestion can be seen just RIGHT to where the original cable entry hole was made, but higher on the column of course )
Drilling here will give you the best chance of not causing any damage to the face of the brick work, stay away from the face brick !.
I would like the Ohme to be central on the brick work column, but the cable entry hole could be a little over the the right of central of the unit.
You already have a location where the cable enters into the room behind the wall box, so just make sure you are not likely to hit anything as you break through the inner wall with the new cable run hole.
Just remember, by lifting up the Ohme you need to have enough cable to reach the C.U. now of course !.
If your C.U. is located high in the room behind, you will be fine because your cable is now too long.
Should you need to extend the cable to reach back to the C.U.
You could use a junction box and correct rated cable inside the property, if you did need to extend the cable.
The external cable storing bracket, could then be relocated directly below the Ohme in the centre of the brick work column.

Option 2.
You could consider LOWERING the Ohme and then fit the correct I.P. weather proof rated black plastic box on the OUTSIDE ?.
At least this would not look too much out of place above the black Ohme unit and it would cover the damage made to the brick work.
The supply cable could be brought in via rear entry through the back of the box and then routed down to the unit ?.
Maybe not as neat as option 1.
But a little easier to pull off I.M.H.O.
No new entry hole to drill through into the house at least.
You would need to isolate the supply to the wall box at the C.U. then disconnect the cable and re-route via the new back box you have fitted and reconnect the cable back to the supply.
If you are not even comfortable attempting option 2.
Then option 1 is likely to be a non starter with the greatest of respect Paul.
Speaking only on a personal basis, I would have no concerns on taking on either one of these two options.
BUT - everybody has a different level of knowledge / confidence / tooling and skills to be able to pull off a task of this size.
There is very little margin for error here, please only proceed with extreme caution if you are 100% totally happy and confident to do so.
Otherwise, please ask a local spark for some help and advice.
Long time dead !.
 

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Powered Solutions installed an Ohme charger for me (they were in too much of a hurry and the job far from the best I could have asked for). Look at the way the cable comes through the wall and the brickwork damage!!

The metal hanger thing they attached to the wall on which the type 2 cable hangs was cut and shaped from steel and the edges were very rough or sharp, so much so I was worried about them damaging the cable and causing fraying, or cutting open a finger!

All the metal edges were sharp, I drew a red ring just on some of them.
View attachment 128598
The metal hanger really should be coated in some thick layer of plastic or rubbery stuff to prevent that. About ten minutes with a ba****d file rounded off the edges fairly well sufficient for me to be able to run my finger along the edge without risk of a deep jagged cut.

Just mine?
It reinforces my belief that professionals are people who can BS well enough to get paid for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, so you are happy to relocate the Ohme and you have checked you have enough cable to reach the C.U. after the move.
the cable is coming from above, from inside the garage where it crosses the ceiling, so if the Ohme was moved UP and a new hole drilled, then there would be some slack to allow it to move.

I complained to Powered Solutions, sending them a picture, and they are going to send "an engineer" over to do something. Hopefully this time the person will ask questions and think before drilling.
 

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Once a firm have botched something, I never give them a chance to 'rectify' it. Usually it's too late, as they already damaged my property, and any repair will be a similar bodge.
 

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Is your charger wired directly to the Rcbo inside? I have got a commando version ad was going to wire it into my Pod-Point but it’s not got the signal wire out the other side. So I’ve cracked it open and there is a connection for the signal but if the yours is just wired directly in I may just do away with the pp for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is your charger wired directly to the Rcbo inside? I have got a commando version ad was going to wire it into my Pod-Point but it’s not got the signal wire out the other side. So I’ve cracked it open and there is a connection for the signal but if the yours is just wired directly in I may just do away with the pp for now.
Cable runs from outlet through garage into ceiling through floor void then back into internal meter cupboard and to the circuit breaker.
 

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"You could consider LOWERING the Ohme and then fit the correct I.P. weather proof rated black plastic box on the OUTSIDE ?"

That's exactly what I did to cover up a very messy similar situation. I cut the back out of a waterproof IP65? Box and screwed that to the wall, covering up the offending mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
/This is how it looks after a different guy came and worked on it. Unfortunately he didn't have any brick-coloured filler, so I will have to do that myself. I made absolutely sure he understood what I wanted and why, and either I or my wife supervised. I could have easily done this myself, but I wanted PwdSol to take responsibility for sloppy work; the chap who came only had to make a diversion on his way back to Bedford, but it would have been 45 minutes of his time including some travelling, with about 20 mins on site. Hopefully they will get their installers to be more careful in future and talk to the customer, and take a little more time to do the job properly.

He also agreed that that Ohme cable hangers have sharp unfinished edges and that it could lead to a frayed cable, I am not the only one.

Now all I need is the EV; I collect my MG on Tuesday morning.
128789
 

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Looks a lot better - well done for persisting and not being too British. :cool:

Have you considered something like this for the hole rather than just filler?

 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Looks a lot better - well done for persisting and not being too British. :cool:

Have you considered something like this for the hole rather than just filler?

hmm, that doesn't look bad. please tell me more.

I will still have to fill the other eight holes in the wall :(
 

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Available from lots of suppliers, normally used to hide holes for television cables.
Cable Entry Hole Cover (Black) Wall Plate
They"stick" on with grab adhesive - just make sure that you use a waterproof one.
 
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Available from lots of suppliers, normally used to hide holes for television cables.
Cable Entry Hole Cover (Black) Wall Plate
They"stick" on with grab adhesive - just make sure that you use a waterproof one.
That the type of thing “Sky” uses all the time when they blow out your brick work !.
They are as rough as a bears arse !,
It will look better when them bullet holes are filled Paul !.
 
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