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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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(This presumes you have got the app, logged in, registered your lead, etc.)

Open your charge port.

Make sure the Ohme lead is powered and has a signal.

Get the 'phone with the app programmed for the lead, and open the app.
It should be grey and say 'not plugged in'.

Plug in to your car with one hand, and hold the 'phone in your other hand.

As soon as the screen turns blue, hit 'Stop Charge' and then 'yes I am sure'.

It will go grey again and say 'DONE CHARGING'.

You can now put your 'phone on standby, lock the car up, whatever you do, go make tea or something.

When you are good and ready, open up the Octopus rates on the website or on the tariff app*, have a browse and decide on the maximum unit price you want to pay.

Go back on your 'phone and the Ohme app.

Hit the three lines top left, and then "Tariff; Agile Octopus".

Type in the maximum unit price you want to pay, the times that it can charge will be confirmed on the screen, it is not always correct, you can adjust once or twice, but the app seems to get its knickers in a twist if you do it too often (this is why * above; get the price you want to pay first so you have a good idea what you are going to put in).

Press the screen somewhere and it 'should' then say 'are you sure you want to change the tariff', if it doesn't then it hasn't gone 'in' and you'll go back to a grey screen.

After successfully inputting a new tariff max, the screen will turn blue again and say 'SMART CHARGING Interrupted by user'.

Now hit 'change target'.

You should now see two lines you have a slider to adjust, and under these a line that says 'Don't charge above X', where X should be what you entered, this line will have the radio button showing BLUE, make sure it is not grey.
Now slide both of the line sliders fully right, just push them both right over to the right, don't bother reading them, just do it!

Hit 'confirm'.

You will get the blue screen again and an advisory message "We adjusted the range to meet your max price", sometimes it seems to come up with a message you have to actively dismiss where you hit "GOT IT", other times it's just a white box comment at the bottom.

You will now see a plot of the programmed charging due, over the next 24 hours. The plot shows miles added, so it will ramp up during the night when you have chosen a rate for overnight charging, and flat during the day time.

You're done. You've done it!
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Discussion Starter #2
One additional point ... I have not connected my app to my car's SOC. I cannot say if this makes any difference to the above if you have connected the battery SOC. I don't think it should, only that it will know if you are likely to charge up to 100% during the charge period.

You do seem to have to put a car into it though, I mean just tell the app what model of car you have (doesn't really matter what you tell it, it uses that car information to give you the charge data in 'miles of charge' .. the Ohme people clearly think you prefer that to kWh ...). But I stopped short on setting up a direct 'app connection' to the car battery.
 

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I usually find that plugging the Ohme into my commando socket (or presumably switching the supply on to a wired unit ?) half an hour before plugging into the car restricts the initial surge to a few seconds. Plan B is to use the car's timer to prevent car accepting a charge until the price is what you want.
 

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I have not connected my app to my car's SOC.
Why not? Surely you are being forced into a lot of hassle (having to calculate how much charge you need, research the best price to pay, override the software) by doing so? To my mind the "added value" of the Ohme software is that it does all of that for you IF it can read your SoC figures and learn from them (particularly important if you have a LEAF with a degraded battery).
 

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Why not? Surely you are being forced into a lot of hassle (having to calculate how much charge you need, research the best price to pay, override the software) by doing so? To my mind the "added value" of the Ohme software is that it does all of that for you IF it can read your SoC figures and learn from them (particularly important if you have a LEAF with a degraded battery).
I wouldn't describe estimating how many kWh would be needed as "a lot of hassle"; nor indeed would I think Donald might.

I've tried it when allowing app to access Nissan's and without it and it's a lot less hassle without. It would be even less if Ohme reported in sensible units like kWh rather than in 'imaginary miles'.
 
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To me it should just be plug and play, with a one of setting of your desired SoC after charging by a certain time.
I wouldn't describe estimating how many kWh would be needed as "a lot of hassle"; nor indeed would I think Donald might.
That's only one part of the process.
I've tried it when allowing app to access Nissan's and without it and it's a lot less hassle without.
Which is more than I have done so will bow to your and @donald 's experience.
 

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EricM said:
I wouldn't describe estimating how many kWh would be needed as "a lot of hassle"; nor indeed would I think Donald might.
That's only one part of the process.
The "whole process" consists of looking at the car's dashboard to find out present %SOC, subtracting that from desired %SOC and multiplying that by battery capacity to give kWh required. Then decide how many half hour sessions of charging you need and set your price cap to allow charging in just enough half hours to supply your want.

That may sound complex when you read it but it's much simper in practice ! I would have managed it easily at 8 years old but I suspect 'Mental Arithmetic' isn't rated quite as important on the primary schools' syllabus these days.

e.g. suppose my SOC is at 60% but I want it at 85% by next morning. I need 25% of battery capacity (62kWh for me) which would be 15.5kWh. Charging at 6.6kW (or 3.3 kWh per half hour) you'd need more than 4 but less than 5 sessions so set your price cap at a figure that will allow 5 sessions (Ohme app gives an instant indication of which sessions it will use).

For a slightly more refined approach, see just how expensive the 5th cheapest half hour would be compared to 4th and perhaps settle for only adding 13.2kWh this time so not quite reaching 85% - but if that's a problem you'd probably be aiming for 100% anyway.
 

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e.g. suppose my SOC is at 40% but I want it at 85% by next morning. I need 25% of battery capacity (62kWh for me) which would be 15.5kWh. Charging at 6.6kW (or 3.3 kWh per half hour) you'd need more than 4 but less than 5 sessions so set your price cap at a figure that will allow 5 sessions (Ohme app gives an instant indication of which sessions it will use).
85-40=25?

Back to school for you, Eric. :)
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Discussion Starter #11
Why not? Surely you are being forced into a lot of hassle (having to calculate how much charge you need, research the best price to pay, override the software) by doing so? To my mind the "added value" of the Ohme software is that it does all of that for you IF it can read your SoC figures and learn from them (particularly important if you have a LEAF with a degraded battery).
With a big battery it is more like a top up. The question is how much of a top-up you want at a cheap rate, not how much you 'have' to fill it up by.
 

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I'm wrongly assuming that, like me, people are using 60%+ of their battery capacity every day. :rolleyes:
Playing the game of charging only below a price is a different game. It must be hard to take a long term view over say three days if you can defer charging that long.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
60% of a 200 mile battery a day = 30k/year odd miles. Few are doing that.
 

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Which I'm not, but with "only" 25kW (120 ish miles) my 20,000 miles means charging every weekday and once over the weekend.
 

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Which I'm not, but with "only" 25kW (120 ish miles) my 20,000 miles means charging every weekday and once over the weekend.
Since your car is a Nissan LEAF30 and you need to charge almost every day, you really don't need 'Agile' or hence the Ohme app 'helping' you. You might be better off on Go where you have a guaranteed cheap rate at the same time every day when you can just use the car's built in
charge timer - in which case all the Ohme's (allegedly) 'smart' features can just be switched off.
 

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Mmmm, I have not read anything anywhere (including this thread) that convinces me it’s worth getting an Ohme cable.
 

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Mmmm, I have not read anything anywhere (including this thread) that convinces me it’s worth getting an Ohme cable.
It is if you are on Agile and don't need to charge the battery every day.

Reading this it sounds a little complicated and the Zappi solution is probably easier if you're not linking the Ohme to the car API.
 

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Mmmm, I have not read anything anywhere (including this thread) that convinces me it’s worth getting an Ohme cable.
My reasoning was :-
1. My car only has two periods that can be set; sometimes Agile offers three or more non-sequential very cheap periods.
2. My Rolec unit is now over 5 years old. Posts in this and other forums suggest that most have died long before that. Replacing it would cost a lot more than the £150 the Ohme cost.

Now that I've worked out how to make it charge at max rate for the full length of any price-selected periods (and that was NOT straightforward !) I'm fairly happy that it does what I wanted.
 

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I just set the Ohme to my OctopusEnergy tariff, job done 👍
 

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Since your car is a Nissan LEAF30 and you need to charge almost every day, you really don't need 'Agile' or hence the Ohme app 'helping' you. You might be better off on Go where you have a guaranteed cheap rate at the same time every day when you can just use the car's built in
charge timer - in which case all the Ohme's (allegedly) 'smart' features can just be switched off.
Which was exactly the conclusion that I came to aided by the statistics of 15 months history where in 76% of cases Go had been cheaper than the average of Agile's optimum 8 cheapest periods and averaging the rest of my use outside of the Agile penalty period. I concluded that Agile only works where you can defer consumption over a longer period or had self-generation to take into account.
 
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