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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,
I've just had premium se model.
I have to say that I'm so happy with the car 😁 it's been amazing till this weekend, I was shocked to see my brand new car dead in the driveway!
I also noticed that microphone stopped working around 4 days prior, but I ignored. Apparently this is related event 🤔
Called roadside assistance, they've sent AA guy, who only jump started the 12v for 5 seconds, and like magic, the car came back to life.

How on earth is this possible? How come that car doesn't sense that battery is running low and tops it up regularly? How come that I don't receive a warning?

No running equipments and all the electronics were shut properly.

I've handed the car to the dealer for checkup and the usual thing, the chief commander engineer is not in today to assess!

I'll update you with any news

Gutted without my Kona.
 

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Ioniq 38kWh
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My Ioniq had a similar problem. Turned out in my case that at least some of the 5 times it happened, it was down to water getting into the doors, this was shorting out across electrical pin connections on the locking mechanism which had non existent insulation, thus keeping the car awake. Was your incident after rain?
I'm still keeping an open mind on mine as they only sorted the passenger doors. Waiting for the drivers side to fail now 😃
 

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How come that car doesn't sense that battery is running low and tops it up regularly? How come that I don't receive a warning?
...
No running equipments and all the electronics were shut properly.
It's a catch-22. In order to assess the aux battery state of charge the majority of the car's systems have to wake up. That in itself causes a significant drain to the 12V battery and so it only happens periodically, 4 hours after driving on a 2020 for the first 24 hrs being parked. It can't respond in realtime to unexpected drains but instead relies on waking up frequently enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My Ioniq had a similar problem. Turned out in my case that at least some of the 5 times it happened, it was down to water getting into the doors, this was shorting out across electrical pin connections on the locking mechanism which had non existent insulation, thus keeping the car awake. Was your incident after rain?
I'm still keeping an open mind on mine as they only sorted the passenger doors. Waiting for the drivers side to fail now 😃
It was rainy indeed, thanks for sharing.
I'll have a closer look once I receive the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's a catch-22. In order to assess the aux battery state of charge the majority of the car's systems have to wake up. That in itself causes a significant drain to the 12V battery and so it only happens periodically, 4 hours after driving on a 2020 for the first 24 hrs being parked. It can't respond in realtime to unexpected drains but instead relies on waking up frequently enough.
May be then the car needs to offer charging more regularly regardless, and a simple current draw measurement would decide how long for each time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can't help but feel the car is less reliable than ICE cars which I have never had problem with,let a side brand new.

i don't know how mitigate this. It's easy to buy Li charger, but I'm not always at home and my wife won't jump start it if the battery is dead!

what's up with the microphone breaking beforehand?

How check that the car charging the battery and it's healthy?
 

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Kona 64
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I'll see what the dealer opinion is
Nice car, shame about the dealers is the general view. My 12v battery failed last December at 15 months and 20,000 miles. This is not unique to the Kona there are many existing threads on here for different makes. There is more and more 12v stuff on a modern car and in my view the 12v batteries fitted are a straight carry over from ICE which need the grunt to cold crank a lump of an engine. Then the alternator recharges it rapidly. As you have seen with the AA a tiny jump pack will start the car. You only need 12v to trigger the relays, its volts not amps. My replacement battery has the cold cranking rating on it but that is irrelevant on an EV.

Buy the smallest conditioning charger you can find, mine is suitable for motorbikes, and charge the battery every month. Your battery was probably not properly charged when you had the car.
 

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Can't help but feel the car is less reliable than ICE cars which I have never had problem with,let a side brand new.

i don't know how mitigate this. It's easy to buy Li charger, but I'm not always at home and my wife won't jump start it if the battery is dead!

.....

How check that the car charging the battery and it's healthy?

With my Kona, I use an OBD2 adapter and the Torque Pro app, with several PIDs to check the values of the Aux battery SOC, also the Aux Battery current and also charging coulombs. These give a good indication of Aux Battery health and that the charging system is working.
There are several other apps available such as Soul EV Spy and Car Scanner that will also show some of these parameters, but probably not the charging coulombs - this measurement is using my own custom PID, which probably only works with Torque Pro.
 

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@Electra Glide in Blue , I think Amps are as important as Volts. And probably lots of them :)

My battery died 3 weeks ago and I connected it to smart charger (NOCO @5 Amps). It started charging the battery and I immediately tried to power on the car. No luck! I tried several times. Nada.

But when I disconnected the charger and plugged Li-Ion jump starter instead it started the car immediately.
I know I probably shouldn't try to jump-start the car from mains charger but I simply got curious - many people here said that all that is important is Volts. It seems it needs amps to do something with relays. I could only hear very muffled repeated clicking when using 5 amp charger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, I've received the car back today.

There is nothing to be fixed 🤔

This probably resonates to what's been said by you guys.

I probably need to buy an obd and jump starter for a new car 😤
Well, she's worth it

I wonder if starting heating remotely would start the charging?
Cheers
 

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@Electra Glide in Blue , I think Amps are as important as Volts. And probably lots of them :)
Complete agreement - and I'd go further and say its the product of amps and time. Or in other words, Amp.hours.
That is why I mentioned coulombs above - one amp for one second is one coulomb of charge, consequentially one Amp.hour is 3600 coulombs.
When people refer to charging / discharging a battery they are actually referring to the flowing in / flowing out of coulombs.

All observations of Aux battery current that I have seen initially show a number of amps, falling with time. So trying to assess the amount of coulombs or Amp.seconds (or Amp.hours) over a period of time needs a measurement scheme that gives the cumulative summation of this falling amps value at every second, over the whole measurement time.
It can certainly be done with an OBD2 adapter and a custom PID for the Torque Pro app, maybe with other other apps also.
 

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Yeah, be absolutely certain that the hatch is properly closed and that anyone using the car has been made aware of that. The rubber bumpers on each side of the cover - turn them all the way clockwise to minimise the risk. Same with doors of course but it's more obvious when they are ajar.
Some of us use a device called a BM2 to monitor the battery; find by Googling. Via a smartphone app you can check voltage profiles over each 24 hour period and you can get a feel for what's going on.
 

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Kona64
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Can you force the car to charge up the 12v, without driving it?

ie if last thing at night I check the Bluelink app and at the bottom of the status screen it does not say Normal in green

Does plugging it in sort it?

Utility mode for 10mins?
 
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