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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I currently have my Roadster 2.0 Sport in at Tesla for a service and asked them to check my suspension due to a knocking noise at the front when going over bumps.

Tesla have confirmed the Bilstein adjustable shock absorbers need replacing and have quoted me a replacement cost of £3500 inclusive and fitted for the pair. If I give the go-ahead, these will be ordered from Tiburg and fitted next week.

However, I can't help but think there could be some alternative options that I might be able to source myself (and do for cheaper!). @dpeilow and Mark Perrin noted there could be compatibility elsewhere and have pointed me here: Elise Parts - Steering & Suspension - Suspension - New S3 Elise Quantum Zero Dampers

However, has anyone done this or know which lotus model is compatible? Is the VX220 suspension the same? If I were to buy these standard Roadster shocks of eBay and fit them (leaving the rear suspension as adjustable) would that be a terrible idea? I don't plan on track driving but I would like to ensure the fronts are in good shape.

This link from TMC seems to suggest the same issue happened from @Mark Sanders but Tesla replaced under warranty.

Be interested in any thoughts, ideas.

Many Thanks
Rick
 

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Hi Rick,
Yes Tesla kindly renewed my front adjustable shox, under warranty and the rattle went away .. for a bit ... BUT (and I feel a bit bad), it came back after a few months. So then I investigated further and found the rattle to be the 'anti-rattle' plates were not doing their job, and were allowing the pads to rattle in the calipers. This is 100% cured by either: renewing the anti-rattle plates or bending them back so that they do their job, bias the pads up against the caliper in the direction of normal braking..... below is the post about this.
Brake Pads
From sept 2016, and still the (very annoying) rattle over small ruts, paving etc has not come back. And if it does - this is the fix.

The only thing to note is: DO NOT brake much in reverse, if you can help it, because this pushes the pads in down, against the bias from the anti-rattle plates, and stretches them, over time so they don't work properly.

If the Shox ARE shot (probably not !), Bilstein do a rebuild service (in UK). And, if it helps, I have a spare set of standard front spring/shocks while the adjustable ones are done - it probably depends on whether you are a 'spanner worrier' or not :).
 

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I'd call Bilstein UK for some advice and quotes - I suspect they could refurbish/rebuild the current shocks for a third of what Tesla have quoted you to replace. You may need to find a friendly garage/competent mechanic to remove them and refit them but that won't add massively to the final bill.
 

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Yep I've had the brake pad rattle issue after I put in 3rd party stuff. I used some gunk to dampen them which helps but isn't perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Very interesting, thanks for the info @Mark Sanders - although now I'm in a bit of a pickle.... the car is still with Tesla so I'll ask them to reconfirm the shocks are gone and that they've checked the brake anti-rattle plates are in good shape.

The brakes were changed in my car before I bought it but by Tesla so I'd hope all that was ok.

Still quite tempted to go for the Quantums and then refurb the Bilsteins (if they are needed). If not, will stick them on eBay. It's the parts cost that is driving the price up, this is the breakdown from Tesla:

Parts –

1161.67 x 2 – Dampers

20.00 ancillaries


Labor

1.1 hrs - 159.50 to replace pair

1.2 2.75 – 398.75 – four wheel alignment (Although they've said this is probably not needed on the Roadster)

So if I refurb or find that the Bilsteins were not "shot" then I've got a set of spare adjustable parts that might be useful to someone somewhere.....
 

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The way to confirm Shox are shot is to compress the springs to be able to feel the damping of the shox .. there should not be any play and the 1-10 adjuster should be effective.

I guess it depends if tesla have a suitable spring compressor.

FWIW I have gradually dialed my shock settings down to 1 for typical UK roads (higher for track days) and keep the rears at 2-3 notches higher than the fronts (to minimise understeer).
 
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