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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I’ve read on here that the remaining battery percentage is not linear (think it was Donald that mentioned it).

In what way is it not so? Does it flatter the efficiency at higher percentages and then fall away quicker lower down, or is it the other way around, losing percentage more quickly at the top and slowing down further down?

GOM is still way out compared to my efficiency so relying on the trip of miles travelled and remaining percentage to work out my efficiency. So far this has been in the top half of the capacity range, so wonder if this is affecting the data if it’s not linear.

Averaging 6.1 miles per kWh, suggesting about 180 miles possible range.

thanks
 

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Hi all, I’ve read on here that the remaining battery percentage is not linear (think it was Donald that mentioned it).

In what way is it not so? Does it flatter the efficiency at higher percentages and then fall away quicker lower down, or is it the other way around, losing percentage more quickly at the top and slowing down further down?

GOM is still way out compared to my efficiency so relying on the trip of miles travelled and remaining percentage to work out my efficiency. So far this has been in the top half of the capacity range, so wonder if this is affecting the data if it’s not linear.

Averaging 6.1 miles per kWh, suggesting about 180 miles possible range.

thanks
Mine (27kw) is the same, below 25% battery the miles per % definitely drops away
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No idea, I’m getting between 7.5-8.3 going to work and between 4.5-5.5 returning home. Just did a rural run mostly flat terrain between our village and a town where the kids go swimming. Was at 7.2 turning into the pool but it has a long steep run up to the car park so finished on 6.7.

My technique is to set the LCD screen to the miles per kWh bar, then try to keep it on the 8 as much as possible! I find you can be on the flat at 30-40 miles an hour on 2 or 3 power bars and be using 4ish miles per kWh. If you give the accelerator a little lift and back to where you were you can get it it jump to a higher efficiency, often 7 or 8. Literally a tiny wiggle of the toes on the pedal
FD982AA2-B3E5-46B3-A49C-20408BE7A7F9.jpeg
 

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Don't get me started on this, one of my main issues. If it's not linear,..... don't call it percentage KIA!

For my previous commute I would consistently get the same miles/kwh figure going both to and from work. On the way I'd always use 15 - 16%, on the way home I'd use 20+%. So either the % is off or the m/kwh. Distance the same.

That said, great car and this is probably my only gripe!

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk
 

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Don't get me started on this, one of my main issues. If it's not linear,..... don't call it percentage KIA!

For my previous commute I would consistently get the same miles/kwh figure going both to and from work. On the way I'd always use 15 - 16%, on the way home I'd use 20+%. So either the % is off or the m/kwh. Distance the same.
What about the elevation? If those numbers are consistent that could be the reason.
 

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You’re averaging 6.1? Have you fitted a sail?
No idea, I’m getting between 7.5-8.3 going to work and between 4.5-5.5 returning home. Just did a rural run mostly flat terrain between our village and a town where the kids go swimming. Was at 7.2 turning into the pool but it has a long steep run up to the car park so finished on 6.7.

My technique is to set the LCD screen to the miles per kWh bar, then try to keep it on the 8 as much as possible! I find you can be on the flat at 30-40 miles an hour on 2 or 3 power bars and be using 4ish miles per kWh. If you give the accelerator a little lift and back to where you were you can get it it jump to a higher efficiency, often 7 or 8. Literally a tiny wiggle of the toes on the pedal View attachment 124290
That is a little difficult to understand. If the car continues to travel at the same speed, under the same conditions (temperature, wind, gradient, etc) how can it suddenly become more efficient? There is no such thing as a free lunch. I would assume this is false data arising from a computational glitch, not the electrical propulsion system "finding a more efficient gear".
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure IanL - good point though. I'm driving the Soul in the same mindset I drove my old Prius, but that did have a CVT and so this "wiggle" of the toes would make the CVT pick a different gear speed. I'm not sure how the Soul picks its motor speed and whether this toe wiggle really does improve the economy or not. Hopefully someone will come along to explain. I'm still driving the same way and although efficiency has dipped being colder now, I'm still happy with the efficiency I'm getting. Did a 100% charge at the end of last week (do this once a month as per the handbook). Driving home last night I hit 50% battery remaining from that charge. Checked the trip and I had covered just over 75 miles on the first 50%.
 

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Well, you must be doing something right, James:)

I had a look at that display while I drove this morning, and it appeared to me that it is not an instantaneous representation of what the car is doing, but is perhaps a summary over a short period (maybe 5 minutes). I particularly noted that the reading was about 4 when descending a steep hill in B, with the accelerator released, and that it stayed at 4 as I climbed an equally steep hill. After some minutes on the flat, it improved to 5, so I think it shows an integration over time.

Re how the Soul picks its motor speed, I understand that the motor is connected to the driveshafts through the single speed gearbox, so motor speed is always proportional to road speed. It is reasonable that the motor efficiency will vary somewhat with speed, but I expect resistance to motion (gradient, wind, aerodynamic drag, etc) and battery temperature are more influential. So electric cars do not have a range of gears for forward motion, just the one. As a matter of interest, some (e.g. Tesla) don't have a gearbox as such - the motor is always coupled to the wheels, and the current is reversed for rearward travel.
 

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I had a look at that display while I drove this morning, and it appeared to me that it is not an instantaneous representation of what the car is doing, but is perhaps a summary over a short period (maybe 5 minutes). I particularly noted that the reading was about 4 when descending a steep hill in B, with the accelerator released, and that it stayed at 4 as I climbed an equally steep hill. After some minutes on the flat, it improved to 5, so I think it shows an integration over time.
Just to expand on that, I did the downhill again this afternoon, and the display got to 99 (I imagine it can go no further), but when I got to the flat, I was cruising at 29 mph, and the figure successively altered in steps, down through 66, 45, 31....till it stabilised at about 4. It is definitely integrating over time, with updates over perhaps 8 seconds or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Interesting, I find that gauge is almost instant in the feedback when I lift off or put my foot down, a lag of no more than a second if that. It seems to jump around in the same way a real time mpg read out would on an ICE. If I am going down hill, I will be seeing 8 and be trying to maintain 0, 1 or 2 power bars in D mode. I only let it go into charge when I need to stop. I lift off early and coast up to the red lights as best as I can. Up hill with my foot down it will be reading about 2 on that 1-8 bar.

What model year is yours, maybe this is something that has changed over time?

My GOM is still either learning my style after 3 months, or is always programmed to under read (no bad thing). The GOM at 100% was high 120’s when I got it in October, even though my efficiency was better than now. Now it reads 135 and is still slowly climbing.
126501
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just realised we may be talking about different read outs. I think you are talking about the miles per kWh trip reading? The 4.7 on my trip below. I am talking about the little bar below the 4.7 that says “0-4-8.” That is real time whereas the large number updates every few seconds. I’ve not reset that trip since the start of December so it always sits at 4.7 now and never changes.


126503
 

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Mine is a 2018 model, I assume with the slightly higher capacity battery, though I'm not sure how to confirm that.

The display I've referred to is the one you get when selecting ECO driving, then ECO level.. If that's the same as the one you are referring to, the bars and ECO level alter in real time as you describe, but the miles/kWh certainly behaves differently! I've only had the car for a week, so still much to learn. I started by recharging to 100%, and the miles remaining and % remaining have kept more or less level-pegging down to 37%. That suggests my range is of the order of 100 miles. What is GOM ( I'm guessing maximum range?) and where do you see it?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mine is also a 2018 model year. The 10th character of the VIN plate relates to the model year. For 2018 this is J. If the car is on its original tyres they will be Michelin’s if it’s a 2018 with the larger battery and Nexens if an earlier model with the smaller battery.

Yes, the eco level, that’s the read out I was talking about that I use.

Yes, the GOM is the predicted range, GOM being short for guessometer. In my picture further up it’s the 135 in the middle of the left circle on the dash display
 

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Thanks for the info. The GOM I never would have guessed. Mine read 102 with 100% charge, so is the guesstimate poor, or is the battery somewhat tired? The car has done 31,000 in 24 months.

My VIN does have the J at the tenth, and the rear tyres are Michelin. The fronts are some unknown brand, hard to read but ends in ….mm.

I paid closer attention to the ECO display this afternoon, and it looks like my readout integrates over about 30 sec, but updates roughly every 10 sec. If that's right, I always see 30 sec of history, but the earlier data may have less weight than the more recent in the bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It’s probably just a reflection of how it has been driven prior to you getting it and while it has been “between owners”. From my experience getting mine I’d expect it to take a month or so for the GOM to get more accurate to your useage. Mine is now only about 10 miles out (under read). The GOM on the Soul is very good. My wife’s Leaf jumps up and down all over the place, you cannot rely on it. The Soul GOM just slowly ticks down. If you are more efficient it just holds the range longer before dropping another mile. Much better.

You’ve got the bigger battery, so 100 should be the worst case range in winter.
 
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