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Discussion Starter #1
Are there official trolley jacking points on the MG? I looked in the manual but did not see any official points specified.
 

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Zoe Devotee
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Has to be, how else would you raise the car? This smacks of the misinformation surrounding the Zoe when it was claimed it had none. All cars must have jacking points, they just won't be mentioned in the manual if your car has no spare wheel. Why would you need to know? But a competent garage or tyre fitter will see them straight away, they are hard to miss.
 
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Has to be, how else would you raise the car? This smacks of the misinformation surrounding the Zoe when it was claimed it had none. All cars must have jacking points,
I do not think this applies to ALL cars. The e-Niro does not have jacking points because Kia consider the use of a scissor jack would be at risk of the car slipping and damaging the battery beyond repair. It does have four point lifting points.
However in the case of the MG I understand that a spare wheel and jacking set is available so I presume it must have jacking points.
 

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Zoe Devotee
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It does have four point lifting points.
These are jacking points. Just not for scissor jack. A regular trolly jack can be used, as used by tyre fitters up and down the country. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
These are jacking points. Just not for scissor jack. A regular trolly jack can be used, as used by tyre fitters up and down the country.
But there are official scissor jacking points - they list them in the manual.

I was specifically asking about offical trolley jacking points
 

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Discussion Starter #6
a competent garage or tyre fitter will see them straight away, they are hard to miss.
Of course there are many solid points that you can jack the car on. But I specifically asked for official points for use with a trolley jack. It surprises me the manufacturer does not specify any.
 

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Journeyman Human
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Of course there are many solid points that you can jack the car on. But I specifically asked for official points for use with a trolley jack. It surprises me the manufacturer does not specify any.
You will be completely safe to use the sill pinch weld jacking points, that are for the scissor jack, when using a trolley jack. Just be sure to use an appropriate rubber pad to ensure you don't damage the paint.
 

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You will be completely safe to use the sill pinch weld jacking points for the scissor jack when using a trolley jack. Just be sure to use an appropriate rubber pad to ensure to don't damage the paint.
Some thing like this !.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Today I jacked up the car to change the front wheel. For the front, I jacked on the section with my trolley jack just behind the official scissor jacking point where the cutout is on the sill. It seemed to work okay, but I am not sure if this is the recommended point, or if anyone has any better solutions?

I also had a think about where I would jack on the rear with a trolley jack, and think the easiest place would be on the chassis rail where I have drawn a red arrow. What do people think?

Aside from jacking points, there does not look many convenient places for suspending the car on axle stands etc when working on the car. I may sound a little thick with this, but I am used to working on older 4x4 vehicles where I have been spoilt for choice with options for jacking / suspending the vehicle to work on it. I would be interested to hear peoples views





Possible trolley jacking point for rear?
 

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Today I jacked up the car to change the front wheel. For the front, I jacked on the section with my trolley jack just behind the official scissor jacking point where the cutout is on the sill. It seemed to work okay, but I am not sure if this is the recommended point, or if anyone has any better solutions?

I also had a think about where I would jack on the rear with a trolley jack, and think the easiest place would be on the chassis rail where I have drawn a red arrow. What do people think?

Aside from jacking points, there does not look many convenient places for suspending the car on axle stands etc when working on the car. I may sound a little thick with this, but I am used to working on older 4x4 vehicles where I have been spoilt for choice with options for jacking / suspending the vehicle to work on it. I would be interested to hear peoples views





Possible trolley jacking point for rear?
It’s a little hard to tell from the photos, but it does look like you have found good suitable spots for lifting the car.
Is the official jacking point to place the scissor jack, anywhere along the cut out shown inner and outer sill, shown in your first & second photo ?.
I am just trying to visualise where the dealer would place both of the arms of lifting pads, on either side of a two poster lift at the dealership, to equally balance the weight of the car when raising it.
This will be the strongest points on the body shell.
I can understand your dilemma when it comes to placing your axle stands.
Normally you would have a lot more choice on the chassis rails, but the HV battery is prohibiting this possibility.
The location of your trolley jack is the same place as you want the stand to be !.
Maybe, jack the car under the inner and outer sill ( with suitable protection on the jacking plate ) then place your axle stand under structural chassis of the body shell ?.
You don’t appear to have many other options really, from what I can see from your photos.
Just be mindful of the location of that HV pack though.
Looks like you have found a good suitable lifting point for your trolley jack.
Take care.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is the official jacking point to place the scissor jack, anywhere along the cut out shown inner and outer sill, shown in your first & second photo ?.
Yes that's the official jacking point for the scissor jack. You can place it anywhere along the cut out shown in the sill. In the manual it says there are triangles depicting this, but these are missing from my car!

I can understand your dilemma when it comes to placing your axle stands.
Normally you would have a lot more choice on the chassis rails, but the HV battery is prohibiting this possibility.
Yes it's a real dilemma! I can't easily see where I would put axle stands. The HV battery / mounting points make it very difficult to support the car with conventional axle stands on the chassis rail. None of my axle stands have the clearance. Maybe you can get very slim profile designs? Even the back axle beam is a strange shape that won't sit well on axle stands. So the options for the rear are really limited - any suggestions?

As for the front (see photo below), I would have preferred to jack on the point that I have marked "other jacking point", however my trolley jack is not low profile / long enough to get to that area. That's a good strong point. I could reach that point easily with a bottle jack. Alternatively you could jack the car with a scissor jack from the official scissor jacking point where the cut out is on the sill. The car could then be supported with an axle stand from the point where I previously used a trolley jack. You would need an axle stand with a flat saddle.

Front Jacking points / axle stand options


Photo shows obstruction by HV battery / mounting points and the difficulty this presents for axle stands
 

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Journeyman Human
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Yes that's the official jacking point for the scissor jack. You can place it anywhere along the cut out shown in the sill. In the manual it says there are triangles depicting this, but these are missing from my car!


Yes it's a real dilemma! I can't easily see where I would put axle stands. The HV battery / mounting points make it very difficult to support the car with conventional axle stands on the chassis rail. None of my axle stands have the clearance. Maybe you can get very slim profile designs? Even the back axle beam is a strange shape that won't sit well on axle stands. So the options for the rear are really limited - any suggestions?

As for the front (see photo below), I would have preferred to jack on the point that I have marked "other jacking point", however my trolley jack is not low profile / long enough to get to that area. That's a good strong point. I could reach that point easily with a bottle jack. Alternatively you could jack the car with a scissor jack from the official scissor jacking point where the cut out is on the sill. The car could then be supported with an axle stand from the point where I previously used a trolley jack. You would need an axle stand with a flat saddle.

Front Jacking points / axle stand options


Photo shows obstruction by HV battery / mounting points and the difficulty this presents for axle stands
A bit off topic, but how old is your car and how many miles? The rust ring around the grommets in the pictures above and what appears to be a lot of corrosion on the back suspension beam (or is it mud?) is disturbing me :(
 

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Yes that's the official jacking point for the scissor jack. You can place it anywhere along the cut out shown in the sill. In the manual it says there are triangles depicting this, but these are missing from my car!


Yes it's a real dilemma! I can't easily see where I would put axle stands. The HV battery / mounting points make it very difficult to support the car with conventional axle stands on the chassis rail. None of my axle stands have the clearance. Maybe you can get very slim profile designs? Even the back axle beam is a strange shape that won't sit well on axle stands. So the options for the rear are really limited - any suggestions?

As for the front (see photo below), I would have preferred to jack on the point that I have marked "other jacking point", however my trolley jack is not low profile / long enough to get to that area. That's a good strong point. I could reach that point easily with a bottle jack. Alternatively you could jack the car with a scissor jack from the official scissor jacking point where the cut out is on the sill. The car could then be supported with an axle stand from the point where I previously used a trolley jack. You would need an axle stand with a flat saddle.

Front Jacking points / axle stand options


Photo shows obstruction by HV battery / mounting points and the difficulty this presents for axle stands
It looks pretty muddy under there, have you been doing a little "Off - Roading".
If I had to choose an area in these photos to lift the car, personal I would favour the point that your have marked as :- "Other Lifting Point".
As best as I can tell, this is the rear FRONT sub frame mount.
The large lifting "Cup" of my 2 Ton trolley jack would fit over this point brilliantly, as long as there is enough room to get the body of the jack that far under the car and still be able to pump the hydraulic handle of the jack of course.
The front portion of the car will be a lot lighter that the ICE version of the car of obvious reasons.
Question, are the large blanking grommets in the floor pan, are they made of pressed steel or rubber ?. ( My guess is rubber )
These are the four lifting points used in the factory, the points are for the body cradle jig that is used to transport the empty body shell around the factory.
The cradle is released when the body shell is married to the complete running gear and traction battery etc.
You can clearly see that the lifting points have been "Masked Off" prior to the under seal being applied to the underside of the car.
This would have been done prior to the "Marriage".
These area's SHOULD have received an under seal "Touch Up" process at a latter stage in the build process.
Because they have not been done, there is evidence of surface rust forming around them blanking grommet.
This is something that should have been picked up and corrected on the PDI by the dealers.
So although these four points are strong, they may not be structurally strong enough to take the single point of contact weight of the car NOW it has all it's components installed !.
Most box sections of the under body should be fine.
With regards to the rear of the car, the beam axle HAS to the best and strongest place to site your axle stands really.
I would invest in a pair of a strong professional trade quality stands that have a suitable top "Yoke" that can pick up on the beam axle contours.
I am lucky enough to have a pair of professional stands that came from a garage over 35 years ago.
Safety first here, there is a LOT more weight in an EV than a standard ICE car.
Take care when lifting and supporting the weight of your car, please !.
P.S. - Everybody will be checking the body lifting points on their car's right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
A bit off topic, but how old is your car and how many miles? The rust ring around the grommets in the pictures above and what appears to be a lot of corrosion on the back suspension beam (or is it mud?) is disturbing me
The rust ring around the grommets is only surface rust, but nevertheless it's concerning. As Carty says this was obviously masked at the factory and not touched up with underseal. Is yours the same as well? I may prep the area and apply some underseal. As for the other corrosion - don't worry it's just mud! It's very bad round here on the country lanes.

It looks pretty muddy under there, have you been doing a little "Off - Roading".
I live in the country and it is pretty bad on the lanes round here! As for the factory lifting points showing some surface rust, I agree that this should have been done. I think I may prep the area and apply some underseal. Or maybe I should complain?

If I had to choose an area in these photos to lift the car, personal I would favour the point that your have marked as :- "Other Lifting Point".
Yes that would be my preferred lifting point as well, but my trolley jack will not slide that far and it is not low profile enough. It's a good trolley jack made by snap-on, but it's designed for beefy trucks! One thing with the area I have have marked "other lifting point" is that there is a bolt in there with an 18mm head. So any jack would need to slip over this. A rubber hockey puck on top of the jack would be perfect for this. One crazy idea I have is that I have a lot of old bottle jacks lying around the place - what do you think about welding an 18mm socket to the cradle of one of these? It would then slip over the 18mm bolt head and make quite a solid jacking point - or is this totally crazy!

I would invest in a pair of a strong professional trade quality stands that have a suitable top "Yoke" that can pick up on the beam axle contours.
Out of interest do you have a picture of your stands? The contour is rather strange on the rear beam (see photo below). Also what about the front? If you jack from the front sub frame mount, where would you put stands on the front? The only place I can think of is where I jacked with my trolley jack (points for the body cradle jig in the factory), using a stand with a flat cradle. But then you say these may not be strong enough?

On another matter, I did some more poking about under the car and have labelled on the photo below "possible rear axle stand point" I have some ultra high 4x4 stands that would fit in here. One thing to watch would be releasing the tension on the coil spring when doing this, but if only jacking a little way it should not be a problem - what do you think?

Possible Rear Axle Stand Point?


Beam Has Unique Contours
 

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Is yours the same as well?
Sorry, I can't check mine at the moment, I have hurt my back 😢.
Arh ...... I do see your point over the rear axle.
I guess you could use your long reach stands to reach the structure, that would be fine I think.
As you have said, the rear axle will hang low, but this no different when putting the car on a two poster garage lift.
You could go for the bottle jack idea, but I would be worried about welding the socket onto it though.
This is one of them times when a smaller trolley jack would be a better option.
The smaller cup of the jack would fit the rear rear sub frame mounting great !.
I really wish I could take a good look under the car and offer some alternatives, but that is out of the question at the moment, sorry.
I will take a look when I can, it's something I really need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I really wish I could take a good look under the car and offer some alternatives, but that is out of the question at the moment, sorry.
I will take a look when I can, it's something I really need to do.
I hope you fix your back soon. Take it easy and rest :)

In the meantime, here is a close up of the sub frame mount:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, the lifting cup of a small trolley jack would fit over that 18mm nut just nice I think !.
Once your back is fixed, it would be great if you could upload a couple of photos. Think I will have to invest in a smaller jack, as everything I have is for tanks!
 
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