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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi ! So I have a tethered type 1 3.6kw unit. I've decided I want to disconnect the tethered cable from the unit and fit a type 2 socket to the front. 2 questions.
1 Is there a resistor I need to remove/ disconnect from the PCB as it will no longer be tethered?
2 can I fit a dip/jumper to upgrade from 3.6 to 7kw ? ( I belive it's the green block at the very top of the photo ? )
20210307_170900.jpg


Thanks in advance.
141728
 

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The good news is the relays used as contactors are 30A rated (probably ok for 32), a standard item, so looks like the board's the same whether 16 or 32A. But try to get someone here with a 32A Podpoint to post a photo so you can compare board details, numbers etc. Theirs should show the jumper for 32A, with luck.

There should be a resistance between Proximity and Earth wires to tell the EVSE the cable rating. Resistance values are 1500 Ohm for 13A, 680 Ohm for 20A (what the 16A EVSEs use), and 220 Ohms for a 32A cable. So you're looking for a 680 Ohm resistor that's presumably easily removed, if the board is designed to be 16/32 capable.

Next thing is you need a socket, see evbitz.uk or ecoharmony.co.uk for possibles.
And you need the wiring supply upgraded probably, see a sparky. Any RCD/MCB/RCBO in CU needs to be 40A, not 32A rated. Reason is that drawing 32A continuously will warm these up, and they tend to de-rate the current as the temperature rises slowly in normal operation. I had a 32A RCD, and car charged for 20 mins, then it all cut out. Replaced with a 40A one and all's fine.

House fuse may need upratng, again as yur sparky to check that 32A isn't going to overload anything. Ask your supplier to upgrade yout fuse, might be done for free if you're lucky. Or may need major changes by DNO, who knows.

If your EVSE is in gge, and car is always in gge when chaged, the Earthing is fine. If car is charged outside, latest regs require either an Earth Rod to provide grounding, or a PEN-loss device that cuts L,N,E when there's fault with the upstream PME, so achieves the same result of totally isolating the car safely. I have no idea if Podpoint has this. If not, either get Earth Rod fitted, or get a PEN-loss device fitted. Viridian at ecoharmony do a rather nice mini-CU with this PEN-loss protection
EVSE Connection Centre with PEN Loss detection - IP30
and it can have, it seems, a configurable 6mA DC protection device that's also recommended. They do an outdoors version as well, but seems to be sold out. Other people may do the same item.
 

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con6 has 2 rows of 4 pins. Which of those pins need jumpering to which pin plz?
 

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. . Resistance values are 150 Ohm for 13A, 680 Ohm for 20A (what the 16A EVSEs use), and 220 Ohms for a 32A cable. . .
Think this is a typo, should be 1,500Ω for the PP to PE resistance for up to 13 A.

PodPoints (older units for sure) have no internal protection so need a Type B RCD on the supply, and if the installation is PME they also need some form of open PEN fault protection, either an earth electrode with the charge point wired as a TT island or one of the open PEN fault detection units. If going down the latter method, perhaps because an earth electrode is impractical, then I'd second the vote for the Viridian unit. Of all the open PEN fault detection units I've looked at, it has far and away the best technical approach to the problem. It's not foolproof, and not as good as fitting an earth electrode, but it's much better than some of the other options, at least one of which is, in my view, close to being useless.
 

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The one closest to con11.

Just bear in mind type 1 doesn't require 6ma DC, and none did when you got the install, but universal and type 2 do now.

And make sure youve got a double pole rcbo feeding it.
 

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What I would say is if it's a long run, over 5m, make sure it's 6mm. Back in the day podpoint used to fit on 4mm t&e and it gets hot, really hot.
 

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What I would say is if it's a long run, over 5m, make sure it's 6mm. Back in the day podpoint used to fit on 4mm t&e and it gets hot, really hot.

That suggests that something may not have been right, either with the cable or with the terminations. 4mm² T&E clipped direct (so in a relatively protected indoor location) is rated at 37 A continuous, and will not exceed it's 70°C max temperature rating at 37 A with an ambient temperature of 30°C (from Table 4D5 of BS7671:2018). However, the terminations in most charge points are only approved for use with 6mm² conductors, and 99.99% of the time overheating is a consequence of poor, or loose, terminations. Another possibility is rogue cable, as there has been dodgy cable with fake approval marks that's found it's way into the UK market.

The usual reasons that 6mm² cable is specified for a charge point operating at 30 A to 32 A is to keep within the maximum 5% voltage drop limit. 6mm² cable is overkill in terms of current carrying capacity in most cases ( 6mm² SWA will run all day at 49 A, reference method A, 30°C ambient, table 4D4A in BS7671:2018), but does have a significantly lower resistance, so for runs over about 31m it's needed just to stay within the 5% voltage drop limit, in addition to any minimum cable size given in the charge point MIs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I need a shopping list as you guys are throwing me off 😂
I've got the type 2 socket, I just need to hook it all up together.
141738
 

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@StevieB That looks to me like the utterly commonplace 0.2" centre-to-centre pins type block, I have a zillion of the jumpers. Message me yr address & I'll stick some in the post.
 

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If you have any old IDE hard drives lying around you could probably rob a jumper from one of those. The used the same size ones for selecting whether a drive was master or slave when more than one drive was installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've wired up a type 2 socket today to fit into the front of the pod point, as this use to be a tethered unit I'm a bit lost with where to wire up the PP wire, I've fitted the CT into the first terminal. I can't find any photos on here of where to add the PP, anyone got any ideas ?
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If this is now a non-tethered unit, then the charge point needs to be able to sense that the cable that's been plugged in is rated to take the selected charge current, and if not, reduce the current to a level that is safe for the cable. The cable has a resistor at both ends, between PP and PE, either 680Ω for a up to 20 A cable, or 220Ω for a 32 A cable. This needs to be connected to the right point on the board, so it can sense the cable rating OK.

Unfortunately, I've never stripped a PodPoint so don't know where the PP sense connection is. It's almost certainly one of the terminals in that block marked "CON 1", and most probably some of the other teminals in that block are used to operate the connector locking motor or solenoid. This pin lock needs fitting, so that the connector is safely locked in when charging, and cannot be removed until after the power has been shut off from the main power conductors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There's so many photos on here, but I can't find one showing where the PP white wire goes, I agree it's into the CON1 block, but where....
Yep, same where you took the type 1 out.
As the unit was tethered but now is untethered there was no PP wire, only the CT
 

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Ideally, you need a photo of the inside of a non-tethered version, showing where the PP connection goes, and how the locking pin motor/solenoid is wired. The latter may well have some sort of sensor, perhaps a switch, that works as an interlock with the charge point board, so it knows when a connector is both plugged in and securely latched. Presumably, the code in the unit already has the option to sense the PP and drive/sense the locking pin device.

I'll do some digging around and see if I find anything more out about Pod Points, if nothing else it may come in handy in future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ideally, you need a photo of the inside of a non-tethered version, showing where the PP connection goes, and how the locking pin motor/solenoid is wired. The latter may well have some sort of sensor, perhaps a switch, that works as an interlock with the charge point board, so it knows when a connector is both plugged in and securely latched. Presumably, the code in the unit already has the option to sense the PP and drive/sense the locking pin device.

I'll do some digging around and see if I find anything more out about Pod Points, if nothing else it may come in handy in future.
Thank you Jeremy, so many photos online, can't believe I can't find one.
Have you got the podpoint socket? Should be 5 singles for that block.
I've bought a non original Pod Point type2 socket ? Is that what you mean ?
141872
20210310_191731.jpg
 
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