Well there is timing! Yep, mine is doing this for a while now, and alarmingly so.In all respects the brakes are working perfectly but just recently when coming to a absolute stop they have grabbed/juddered just before stopping. This is only from say one mph to stop. Any previous experience.
@KenBIn all respects the brakes are working perfectly but just recently when coming to a absolute stop they have grabbed/juddered just before stopping. This is only from say one mph to stop. Any previous experience.
Yes that's what mine was doing - locking the rear left wheel. Once I couldn't even get moving forwards with full throttle as the rear left had jammed on completely, I had to reverse (at a traffic light no less) to un-jam it! It's definitely the rear brakes doing this, contrary to what I initially thought.Yes ! I jad this first a couple of years ago and asked on here. ...no one else had the problem and I thought I was alone. You've made me happy. Our also.did the brakes staying on when pedal. Related but it was the rear brakes. The car would sit down as it tried to move away.
My front discs and pads were shot as well - plenty of thickness left on both but the discs had serious rust lips and were slightly warped causing a bad vibration when braking at speed. The pads were also in poor condition.Ours had to have the front discs and pads changed as they'd seized from under use and the inner gave of both discs was like the surface of Mars. Utterly shot.
It's nothing to do with ABS, emergency brake assist or anything like that, its purely a problem with the rear drum brake assembly. The same locking and jamming occurs pulling the handbrake lever - and ABS cannot modulate the handbrake application.Since then it's been fine but recurs occasionally when wet. I thought it was a dodgy abs sensor getting wet as I gather this can cause similar symptoms, but I reckon it's now just wet or rusty brakes. I think the car thinks 'I'm not slowing as I should' and dumps the emergency brake assist. I find that when it occurs, it can be cured by getting up to speed, knocking the car into N to kill the regen brakes, amd give them a good hard press. You'll hear the usual grating noises as the cap is shifted amd the brakes get a work out.
I bet they'll. Work fine after that..
As I reported earlier there are deep grooves worn into the "shoe lands" on the backplate through the paint layer, this is causing the shoe edge to snag on the grooves and this can also cause the leading shoe to stick on. In fact I sometimes hear a "click" from the rear brakes when I release the brake pedal - I think it's a good bet that the snagging shoe is jumping across the groove on the lands when this happens.Shoe Lands or Bosses
The shoe lands or “bosses” are an often overlooked item when looking for the cause of a rear wheel lockup condition. The shoe lands keep the brake shoes square with the drum and provide a friction surface for the shoes to move against. Over time the bosses can become grooved and corroded as in Figure 61.6. This grooving can allow the brake shoe to hang on either the apply or release of the brakes which can cause lockup. The shoe lands should be checked during the inspection and if rear brake service is performed they should be cleaned and lubed.
If I drive conservatively for maximum regeneration I'm finding that it just doesn't keep the rust on the front discs under control, which leads to squealing and/or scraping (on the built up rust) even on discs that are only a month old.I think this is a real problem. With EVs. Standard car brakes might need a rethink with bigger clearances and better shielding to keep the components dry. Even fancy alloy wheels don't help.
A mate has an ampera and has had to get brakes replaced through lack of use gumming them up. Whilst we need it for range, it seems regen brakes might save brake wear but corrosion and stickiness cause us more problems
Squealing front brakes and grabbing front brakes are two different things... If you are sure the front brakes are also "grabbing" then you should check and replace the rubber bush on the lower slide pin and make sure that both slide pins are greased suitably with silicone brake grease - it made a world of difference for the smoothness of my front brakes.I'd disagree with the rear drum.in our case....it's definitely the front discs that grab with an ear piercing shriek. But when it has decided to to keep the brake applied it the rear drums that have been on.
It's nothing to do with computers, nor does the car "slam the brakes on" for you, you are pressing the brakes, ABS releases the brakes if a wheel locks, it doesn't apply them. (Traction and stability control can however apply brakes by themselves)So why doe it grab ? I'm can't think of a physical.reason in our case except that the cars brain panics and thinks it's not slowing as it should due to.wet discs....and then slams the brakes on with pressure that the components wouldn't normally see.
It did it last night in the heavy rain on my commute home but stopped.when I put it in N and used friction only. My next stop in drive and it was back to grabbing.
It think it gets confused.
The same thing happened to me today. It was wet but not cold. Had occurred intermittently but never locked up before. Glad I had read this thread previously as might not have the cop on to put it in reverse. The following car was very close.Yes that's what mine was doing - locking the rear left wheel. Once I couldn't even get moving forwards with full throttle as the rear left had jammed on completely, I had to reverse (at a traffic light no less) to un-jam it! It's definitely the rear brakes doing this, contrary to what I initially thought.
Clicked on your link and ordered the same for mine. ~£48 now Lower price than I found myself.A set of discs/pads for these on ebay is actually pretty decent at £52 all up including delivery, and although I have not fitted them yet I already have them in my possession, and they seem to be of good quality:
Front Apec Brake Disc (Pair) and Pads Set for PEUGEOT ION 0 ltr | eBay