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Afternoon
I got my pride and joy Ion in 2014 and have had almost bang on 6 years of absolutely hassle free driving with it since then. Although almost 18 months old when I bought it, it had been sat in a garage car lot so I was the first owner.
The last two weeks have been an eye opener though. It started with an amber warning signal - Car with a spanner through it. At thate point I more or less stopped driving it - apart from to take it to a local garage who have been doing the MOT's and were happy to do me a diagnostic. This threw up a few codes U1100, U1920, P1B18, U1100, U1922, P1AA7, U1113, P1A02 are the main codes.
The local garage advised they have not got the skill set needed to identify what these codes mean or to undertake repairs so I began to try to find a garage that would.

However since then another issue has arisen. When I start the car I am now seeing the Gear Position letter on the dashboard flashing as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator and if I go above 10 mph the dreaded tortoise symbol also appears. Part of my issue is that as I live on the East Coast of Scotland about 25 Miles from Edinburgh I am a bit stuck in terms of who is around to repair an EV. I bought the car on the west coast so cannot get it back to the original dealer who sold it to me although I am trying to get a franchise garage on this side to help me with it. They are a bit reluctant to support as they say they do not have EV trained staff although they are a Peugeot Dealership.

So my two questions to the Forum Members
1) Has anyone had this problem with their Ion or equivalent EV Car and are these codes telling me that my Battery Pack is now dying or could there be another explanation? I had the 12v Battery checked and that is ok .
2) Is anyone aware of a garage or preferably a mobile EV trained mechanic that operates in the East Lothian area that they could direct me too?
Thank you if you are able to offer any guidance.
 

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Sorry to hear the problems you're having with the car.

Most of the codes you've listed are communications errors between ECU's:

U1100 - EV-ECU Can bus timeout
U1920 - K-Line error EV-ECU
P1B18 - Loss of communication with the electric vehicle control computer
U1922 - K-Line receiving error
P1AA7 - communication error on the CAN network with the electric vehicle control computer
U1113 - EV remote CAN timeout/Not equipped
P1A02 - Shift position switch

BTW to look up the codes I just use google - for example "I-Miev P1A02". A good document for the i-Miev which is 95% accurate for the Ion is the following manual:


Onto the problem itself. A lot of the codes set are similar to those in this thread:


This car was eventually fixed.

You say the 12v battery has been "checked" - checked how ? Unless it has been capacity tested (discharge test) then it's likely to appear OK on a voltage test but fail under load.

Can you put a volt meter across the battery after the car has been turned off for an hour, then put it across the battery with the car turned on in READY mode (assuming it will still go into ready) and report both voltages ? One reason for this test is to ensure that the DC-DC converter is still able to charge the 12v battery. If not, that's a whole other can of worms...

If the 12V battery is the original I would still be inclined to replace it. I had to replace the 12v battery in my 2011 Ion more than a year ago and it was totally stuffed. It was a miracle the car was still working. 6-8 years seems to be the maximum the 12v battery will last before it is severely degraded in capacity. This can go un-noticed as there is no heavy drain load like a starter motor that the battery has to supply before the car turns on.

Most of those fault codes reporting comms errors could have been set when the 12v battery was very low and would still be memorised until cleared even if the original fault has since been fixed.

P1A02 is an error code for the gear position switch, so I'd strongly recommend you lubricate all the joints for the gear lever cable with spray grease, (with a directional nozzle) see the following thread:


Later cars like yours have a slightly simpler linkage mechanism with less joints but still seize up.

If the ECU can't figure out with confidence what position the gear lever is in, it won't let you charge or drive the car, depending on which position is faulty, and a flashing gear indication almost certainly means the switch isn't reading correctly. So far everyone with this problem has cured it by lubricating the pivots shown in the thread above.

You'll probably find the gear lever feels a bring springy at the moment when going into park or drive - after lubricating it should move positively into these positions without any springiness. If not try a bit more lubrication.

I'm located in Motherwell not too far from you and have a Diagbox diagnostic tool for the Ion/C-Zero. In normal conditions I would probably be willing to pay a quick visit to put the diagnostic tool on and see the problems first hand, however unfortunately in the current coronavirus conditions I'm not really able to do that, (extended family member still shielding) but I and others on here can hopefully talk you through diagnosing the problem remotely.

Edit: Re-reading your post and saw mention of the tortise icon when you try to go above 10mph. At the time this happens what charge percentage is indicated ?

Do you have an Android device of any sort that could run the apps Canion or Hobdrive ? Do you have a bluetooth OBD-II dongle ?
 

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Are you a little bit DIY capable.

A good starting point is to fit a NEW fully charged 12v battery.

Start by turning the car off, wait 10 minutes then disconnect 12v battery terminals.

Also, most of those codes don't relate to HV battery condition.😁😁😁
 

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Also, most of those codes don't relate to HV battery condition.😁😁😁
None of the listed codes are related to an HV traction battery problem, however the turtle icon appearing above 10mph is a little concerning as that could indicate a low cell voltage. (Unless it's the gear position sensor fault putting the car into limp mode, not sure if that can happen, and whether the turtle icon can indicate anything other than low charge/low voltage....)
 

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None of the listed codes are related to an HV traction battery problem, however the turtle icon appearing above 10mph is a little concerning as that could indicate a low cell voltage. (Unless it's the gear position sensor fault putting the car into limp mode, not sure if that can happen, and whether the turtle icon can indicate anything other than low charge/low voltage....)
Next step once 12v replaced,gear selector lubricated and fault codes cleared would interrogate cell voltages and balance with CanIon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry to hear the problems you're having with the car.

Most of the codes you've listed are communications errors between ECU's:

U1100 - EV-ECU Can bus timeout
U1920 - K-Line error EV-ECU
P1B18 - Loss of communication with the electric vehicle control computer
U1922 - K-Line receiving error
P1AA7 - communication error on the CAN network with the electric vehicle control computer
U1113 - EV remote CAN timeout/Not equipped
P1A02 - Shift position switch

BTW to look up the codes I just use google - for example "I-Miev P1A02". A good document for the i-Miev which is 95% accurate for the Ion is the following manual:


Onto the problem itself. A lot of the codes set are similar to those in this thread:


This car was eventually fixed.

You say the 12v battery has been "checked" - checked how ? Unless it has been capacity tested (discharge test) then it's likely to appear OK on a voltage test but fail under load.

Can you put a volt meter across the battery after the car has been turned off for an hour, then put it across the battery with the car turned on in READY mode (assuming it will still go into ready) and report both voltages ? One reason for this test is to ensure that the DC-DC converter is still able to charge the 12v battery. If not, that's a whole other can of worms...

If the 12V battery is the original I would still be inclined to replace it. I had to replace the 12v battery in my 2011 Ion more than a year ago and it was totally stuffed. It was a miracle the car was still working. 6-8 years seems to be the maximum the 12v battery will last before it is severely degraded in capacity. This can go un-noticed as there is no heavy drain load like a starter motor that the battery has to supply before the car turns on.

Most of those fault codes reporting comms errors could have been set when the 12v battery was very low and would still be memorised until cleared even if the original fault has since been fixed.

P1A02 is an error code for the gear position switch, so I'd strongly recommend you lubricate all the joints for the gear lever cable with spray grease, (with a directional nozzle) see the following thread:


Later cars like yours have a slightly simpler linkage mechanism with less joints but still seize up.

If the ECU can't figure out with confidence what position the gear lever is in, it won't let you charge or drive the car, depending on which position is faulty, and a flashing gear indication almost certainly means the switch isn't reading correctly. So far everyone with this problem has cured it by lubricating the pivots shown in the thread above.

You'll probably find the gear lever feels a bring springy at the moment when going into park or drive - after lubricating it should move positively into these positions without any springiness. If not try a bit more lubrication.

I'm located in Motherwell not too far from you and have a Diagbox diagnostic tool for the Ion/C-Zero. In normal conditions I would probably be willing to pay a quick visit to put the diagnostic tool on and see the problems first hand, however unfortunately in the current coronavirus conditions I'm not really able to do that, (extended family member still shielding) but I and others on here can hopefully talk you through diagnosing the problem remotely.

Edit: Re-reading your post and saw mention of the tortise icon when you try to go above 10mph. At the time this happens what charge percentage is indicated ?

Do you have an Android device of any sort that could run the apps Canion or Hobdrive ? Do you have a bluetooth OBD-II dongle ?
Simon
This has been incredibly helpful. Thank you. I need to run through a number of the points you and the others have suggested and will report back once I have done so. I think it will be a wise investment to change the 12v battery and grease the cables as suggested. I'll then see whether that makes a difference.
I'm not at all DIY Savvy but the McConachies here in Haddington are very supportive in trying to help - I've been up to them about three times and they ran a diagnostic (twice) and tested the Battery - Just the amp test though - and even though I've offered to pay for their time they just said no worries. I'll be glad to give them a bit of battery business and see if they can slap on some grease in the appropriate place!
Be back in touch to let you and the others know how I got on and thank you again
 

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Simon
This has been incredibly helpful. Thank you. I need to run through a number of the points you and the others have suggested and will report back once I have done so. I think it will be a wise investment to change the 12v battery and grease the cables as suggested. I'll then see whether that makes a difference.
I'm not at all DIY Savvy but the McConachies here in Haddington are very supportive in trying to help - I've been up to them about three times and they ran a diagnostic (twice) and tested the Battery - Just the amp test though - and even though I've offered to pay for their time they just said no worries. I'll be glad to give them a bit of battery business and see if they can slap on some grease in the appropriate place!
Be back in touch to let you and the others know how I got on and thank you again
Afternoon all
One new battery and a greasing of the Bowden cable later.. All warning lights and tortoise / turtles gone and car back running smoothly. Cost just over £80. I suspect it would have cost in the hundreds if I had gone to a Peugeot dealer to first analyse and then under take a sequence of repairs that may or may not have worked. I am possibly being unkind but such is my previous experience.
Thanks to the guidance and detailed descriptions given here I had a first from a garage. The mechanic congratulating me on the research!!
My thanks to each of you
 

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Afternoon all
One new battery and a greasing of the Bowden cable later.. All warning lights and tortoise / turtles gone and car back running smoothly. Cost just over £80. I suspect it would have cost in the hundreds if I had gone to a Peugeot dealer to first analyse and then under take a sequence of repairs that may or may not have worked. I am possibly being unkind but such is my previous experience.
Thanks to the guidance and detailed descriptions given here I had a first from a garage. The mechanic congratulating me on the research!!
My thanks to each of you
great outcome.

I would suggest downloading free CanIon Software with a suitable donation and purchasing a Bluetooth OBD2 interface. Then you can be an informed battery condition worrier😁😁😁😁😁
 

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Good news indeed. I wonder how many people check the water level in their batt. Mine started to play up a few yrs ago but filling the water fixed it. Mines a 2011 version seemingly going as good as new.
 

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Good news indeed. I wonder how many people check the water level in their batt. Mine started to play up a few yrs ago but filling the water fixed it. Mines a 2011 version seemingly going as good as new.
I have a quick other question - Before I got the battery replaced I checked to see that I had the Radio code and looking at the back of the owners manual found what I thought was what I needed. It says radio code and then has a long sequence ending with 4 numbers in bold. I took it to mean that the 4 numbers in bold where the input codes. However they did not work. Was I correct in thinking this should have been the code? Or should I be contacting Peugeot with this code to get the actual radio code? Or is it somewhere else?
Be grateful for any thoughts on this?
 

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I don't know where the code is usually recorded or what it looks like as the owners manual was missing from my car. My radio was also locked out when I got the car due to a previous flat 12v battery and the seller (an indy garage) wasn't able to fix it for me in time before I bought the car so they knocked a little bit off the price for the non working radio...

As soon as I got it home I used my Diagbox/Lexia 3 diagnostic tool to reset the lockout and retrieve the code for the radio. :) So anyone who has a recent PSA (Citroen/Peugeot) Diagbox diagnostic tool can unlock the radio and retrieve the radio code for future use.

Peugeot of course can do this too as Diagbox is their official dealer diagnostic tool. How much they might charge you to do this I have no idea.
 
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