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i have a Peugeot 3008 Hybrid4 PHEV.
i get about 35 miles range on battery before the engine needs to kick in.
When the engine does kicks in, I could force it to charge the traction battery (using Esave function) as opposed to drive the wheels, but I have no idea which option is most efficient.
Does anyone have any objective evidence to shed light on this question?
 

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Drive the wheels - then at least power is going from the engine to the wheels, by charging the battery you lose energy in the charging circuits and lose again discharging.
 
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2020 Zoe ZE50 135 GT Line
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I would use regen to charge the battery and plug in wherever possible Don’t use the engine otherwise you’re defeating the object of having a battery and reducing costs.
 

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On a long run, try to use electricity in built-up areas and petrol out in th eopen. That 's a lot healthier for those around you. And if your built-up areas exceed the electric range then it's a good idea to recharge the battery before entering the built up places, as the difference in fuel costs will be small.

I don't know the details of your Phev, but it may well have a "Hold" mode where the ICE cycles on/off for a couple of miles at a time, driving the wheels on petrol and charging up a tiny bit at the same time, then petrol off and discharge that tiny buffer. Said buffer is 0.4 kWh im Ampera, good for around 1.5 to 2 miles before petrol cuts in again. So you total trip will have X miles on petrol, and Y on electricity alone, with X & Y distributed into many tiny portions. You can instead elect to drive up hills (in open air regions of course!) in Petrol/Hold mode, which will not do much charging, then at top of hill select Electric mode (Normal, EV, ECO, whatever it's called) and do a lot of regen going down. Then at the bottom of the hill, select Hold mode again to maintain the battery level, and this way you're now holding it at a higher level than it was at the top, so you've maybe added a mile or so. So Petrol up, Regen down is one way to adjust the distribution of the X & Y portions of your trip, and on paper should be slightly more efficient than simply electing to charge up a bit along the flat. The ICE will be at its most efficient around 75% of max power taking you up the hills, and the Hold mode stuff along the flat will probably run the ICE at lower loads than that, and fractionally less efficiently.
 

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You can instead elect to drive up hills (in open air regions of course!) in Petrol/Hold mode, which will not do much charging, then at top of hill select Electric mode (Normal, EV, ECO, whatever it's called) and do a lot of regen going down. Then at the bottom of the hill, select Hold mode again to maintain the battery level, and this way you're now holding it at a higher level than it was at the top, so you've maybe added a mile or so. So Petrol up, Regen down is one way to adjust the distribution of the X & Y portions of your trip, and on paper should be slightly more efficient than simply electing to charge up a bit along the flat. The ICE will be at its most efficient around 75% of max power taking you up the hills, and the Hold mode stuff along the flat will probably run the ICE at lower loads than that, and fractionally less efficiently.
I tend to do the opposite of this but it involves you knowing the route ahead very well, on my commute I have a lot of motorway this is up - down - up - down in steep sections. I'll run up in EV mode and just before I crest the hill switch to hold, the ICE fires up as I crest and runs all the way down the hill, because the load going down the hill is very low (on a set cruise control it's just coasting really) the ICE hasn't got to drive the wheels so it charges instead for about a mile and then switches off until there is demand at the wheels again. Results in less EV range because you're using the battery for the hard work going up the hill but results in a much higher overall MPG. On my 52 mile round trip 3 days a week doing it this way I'll average 160mpg with about 37miles on battery or I can do it the other way and run the ICE hard going uphill and then coast down the hills, this nets an additional 5 miles or so EV range but MPG is more like 120 for the overall journey because you're forcing the ICE to work hard when you could be using the much cheaper battery energy to propel you
 

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Another benefit using EV uphill & petrol down is it tends to be quieter! Just learn what your car does best, & do that!
 

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I had a golf GTE PHEV and did several experiments on longer trips - using the ICE to charge the HV battery kills mpg, and reusing those electrons later in the same trip does not give higher total trip mpg. Better on a longer trip to put the car into hybrid mode where it decides which source to use, and then when you're EV Range from your end point, force it in to EV only to end the trip with zero EV range left (assuming there's a charge point there).
Got 55-58mpg on 100mile + trips .

If your car has an instant mpg readout on the trip computer, then find a steady flat ish motorway, sit say at 62mpg with the Eddie Stobarts and watch(*) the trip computer readout on hybrid with the ICE powering the car.
Then put it into battery charge mode and watch the mpg value plummet
I was seeing it drop from high 40s to low 20s

(* helps to have a nerdy teenager to watch the display whilst you drive if you're not able to easily see it)
 
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Leaf 30kWh, HS PHEV
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Having driven Phev for 12 months here’s what I do
• drive in EV mode in urban areas
• motorway / A road, switch to Auto (engine kicks in / save option in Outlander minimised user of battery)
• switch to EV mode when exiting motorway / A roads

When returning home I know much I need from motorway / A road to home so I tend to keep it in EV mode to use battery rather than petrol.

Charging from Petrol engine is not worth the effort. Just let the engine drive the wheels


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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