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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Does anyone know if Pod Point will only install a mini CU in the meter cupboard? I'm going to have to split the tails as the main CU is in the middle of the house and the garage is detached. My garage is currently fed by a 13amp fused spur (new build s***e) so can't use that, i've already trenched from my Meter to the garage wall (about 12 meters). Ideally i'd like to drop in a 16mm SWA and have a CU in the garage that gives me options beyond a single 7KW EVSE. My brother in law is a sparky and he can do the necessary(not EVSE though), however i don't want to pay him to do stuff(or buy kit) that might be included in the Pod Point Standard Installation.

Cheers
 

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Leaf 30kWh, Outlander PHEV
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Most installers will either install from CU or split off the mains off the meter (I got charged 50 more).
Their standard install includes 5m of 40A cable I think. Everything is optional extra and you will pay for every little bit.

If you can get wiring to garage sorted, I would.
 

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Just get your bro to do the entire job and forget the PodPoint stuff.
we did discuss that, however he's a little reluctant as they don't do them his day job, i'm leaning toward the pod point, due to it not needing an earth rod (and the design as i want tethered), there are a number of services running though the section you'd logically put the rod, i managed to find one just doing the trenching, luckily i was taking it steady with the mattock! the ones at his wholesalers are Rolec, probably just the dumb type, the other option would be a commando and the Omne from Octopus, but still needs the earth rod. Omne looks a bit messy too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Most installers will either install from CU or split off the mains off the meter (I got charged 50 more).
Their standard install includes 5m of 40A cable I think. Everything is optional extra and you will pay for every little bit.

If you can get wiring to garage sorted, I would.
thats what i figured, however looking at the pod point standard installation it states it includes 15m cable and a 3way CU if you need one, i'm assuming Henley blocks would be included in that?

one spanner in the works is i'd like to get a 32amp feed for my hot tub thats currently on a 13amp plug, if a CU goes into the garage then i could use that to also run to the tub
 

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My meter cabinet is on the outside of the garage back wall; the CU is inside on the same wall. The Pod Point installer split the meter tails with a Henley block in the outside cabinet, then fed the new pair through the wall to the new mini-CU wall-mounted inside the garage, which he then ran via the garage loft space to the Pod Point on the outside front wall.

No extra charge, and he did a very good job.
 

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If I were you I'd get your BiL to fit the garage consumer unit.

I'm not teaching him to suck eggs but all this should involve is:-

Existing meter tails into a henley block. Split between house consumer unit and a new 80a fused main switch in the meter cabinet. This provides overload protection to the garage supply and won't cause issues with the evse RCD. Install a 16mm 3core SWA from the new main switch, direct buried in your trench. While you've got the trench open I'd also lay a twinwall duct (with draw wire) as a Podpoint needs a hard wired CT for load limiting. This also provides some futureproofing and is easier/cheaper now than when everything is relaid. Terminate the SWA into new garage consumer unit of choice.

A couple of hundred quid in materials and a mornings work. You've done the hard bit, the digging.

Your evse "standard installation" will then cover the mcb, type a rcd and direct clipped SWA.
 

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What TOJ says is spot on. Switchfuse at the meter cupboard, SWA to garage for a proper high capacity submain. Run EVSE from submain.

Your talking about earth rods, have you confirmed if its TN-C-S or TN-S supply?
 

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we did discuss that, however he's a little reluctant as they don't do them his day job, i'm leaning toward the pod point, due to it not needing an earth rod (and the design as i want tethered), there are a number of services running though the section you'd logically put the rod, i managed to find one just doing the trenching, luckily i was taking it steady with the mattock! the ones at his wholesalers are Rolec, probably just the dumb type, the other option would be a commando and the Omne from Octopus, but still needs the earth rod. Omne looks a bit messy too.
If you are trenching, ideal time to sort earthing. A real earth will always be more reliable and lower maintenance than any so called detection system. There are options other than Rolec.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks all for the advice, @TOJ that's pretty much the conversation we had to be fair, I was just being tight in that I didn't want to be buying things like the Henley blocks/80a switch and garage CU, if that was going to be covered by the pod point standard install charge, it seems well documented that these OLEV installs are a charging a premium ;)
 

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hmm, no your not fitting another switchfuse in there. The device bottom right is a switch fuse, you dont usually have one for your house, but at a guess theres a long run from there to the consumer unit, so they've had to fit one to protect the cable?
 

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the CU is in the centre of the house so depending on the route could be 8-12metres at a guess
Tails from the meter to CU are only allowed up to 2m long these days, so that's why you have the fuse.

Is that meter box surface mounted, flush or half-recessed? If either of the latter a surface box next to it with the extra switch-fuse and garage cable termination should be reasonably OK.
 

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Even squeezing the henley blocks into that cabinet will be fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tails from the meter to CU are only allowed up to 2m long these days, so that's why you have the fuse.

Is that meter box surface mounted, flush or half-recessed? If either of the latter a surface box next to it with the extra switch-fuse and garage cable termination should be reasonably OK.
i think it would be classed as half-recessed, it sticks out of the wall 80-100mm'ish I would say
 

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Even squeezing the henley blocks into that cabinet will be fun!
No need to use Henley Blocks. Use an isolator switch with two inputs and 4 outputs. Its then a switch and splitter blocks in the same footprint as just the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
so I had a sparky round today as my BiL isn't the most motivated of individuals, to be fair even he was scratching his head about about what to do in the meter box to get this to work! He'd going to take it away and see what he can find, so I'm waiting with baited breath for an update...
 
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