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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I’ve had a POD Point Solo charger for 3.5 years and it’s now developed a charging fault.

The issue is it often won’t connect to my i3, and sometimes if it does connect the charge fails part way through. I’ve found turning it off for a while sometimes works to get it to connect again but then the issue will reoccur later. (It’s not the car as it works fine with many other chargers)…

I’ve contacted PP, firstly by phone and more recently by email but so far have not heard back regarding any possible repair.

I’m needing to solve issue as soon as possible and am considering just buying a new charger (not PP obviously 😀), but am a little reluctant to add it to landfill.

Has anyone had any similar experience and how did you get on with the fix, particularly interested if anyone knows a third party repair service…

Thanks
 

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Have you ruled out the car? At a 7kW public charger does the same fault occur?

I ask because I had a similar fault with my Golf GTE and the charging actuator lock was faulty. I know this is a common problem on BMWs, you can buy a new actuator for about £80.00
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you ruled out the car? At a 7kW public charger does the same fault occur?

I ask because I had a similar fault with my Golf GTE and the charging actuator lock was faulty. I know this is a common problem on BMWs, you can buy a new actuator for about £80.00
Hi,
It’s definitely not the car, we have 7.2kW chargers at work that I use every day with no issue..
 

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I'd suggest at least initially give the charging pins a good clean out with a q-tip and maybe some contact cleaner spray (but do this ideally with the AC power disconnected to the charger.) Do this on both the car's cable and the charge point. May also be worth getting a can of compressed air or using an air compressor to blow any dirt or contaminants out of the charging pins. Connector issues are the bane of electronics everywhere. It's not recommended to use a vacuum cleaner because of ESD risks.

If the issue still exists then it could be related to bad capacitors on the charging controller board, I've heard these mentioned as an issue, but you'd need to have some soldering experience to change them.
 

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If you've ruled out the car completely, then an intermittent fault may well be in the cable. Not that uncommon for the thin Control Pilot wire, that does the signalling from the charge point to the charger, to break, and make intermittent contact. One way to check this would be to plug the car in, let the charge start, then wiggle the cable a bit, near the the connector and where the cable leaves the charge point, to see if the charge stops. If it does, then either a replacement cable, or repair of the cable you have, may fix it. A new cable is more often than not the better solution if this is the problem.

Contrary to the advice above, I would very strongly suggest never putting contact cleaner anywhere near a car connector. I spent hours fixing the consequences of a car and connector where someone has used this stuff, thinking it was a good idea. These connectors are designed to dry mate, and self clean in use, and contact cleaner often leaves a protective residue that then collects dust and jams behind the very fine leaf spring contacts in the socket terminals, and makes them jam tight, as the sticky dirt hinders the fine leaves from springing outwards inside the terminal barrel.
 

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If the concern is over the cleaner leaving a lubricant behind (although I have not heard of this issue myself) then it may be preferable to use isopropyl alcohol aerosol spray instead. This will not leave any residue behind.

While I have not touched a Type 2 connector issue beforehand, I have fixed many connectors beforehand with contact cleaner. Admittedly, the larger, springier 32 amp connector pins may be an issue if the lubricant prevents the pins from correctly 'springing' to normal. Attacking just the CP, PP and PE pins may be better in this case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd suggest at least initially give the charging pins a good clean out with a q-tip and maybe some contact cleaner spray (but do this ideally with the AC power disconnected to the charger.) Do this on both the car's cable and the charge point. May also be worth getting a can of compressed air or using an air compressor to blow any dirt or contaminants out of the charging pins. Connector issues are the bane of electronics everywhere. It's not recommended to use a vacuum cleaner because of ESD risks.

If the issue still exists then it could be related to bad capacitors on the charging controller board, I've heard these mentioned as an issue, but you'd need to have some soldering experience to change them.
Thank you,
I have some contact cleaner so will give it a go.
I do suspect PP circuit board, we have an electronic dept at work who may do the repair for me, if you have the details of the capacitors then I could ask them to take a look if the cleaning doesn’t work.
I guess it’s the top two communication pins I should focus on?
 

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Thank you,
I have some contact cleaner so will give it a go.
I do suspect PP circuit board, we have an electronic dept at work who may do the repair for me, if you have the details of the capacitors then I could ask them to take a look if the cleaning doesn’t work.
I guess it’s the top two communication pins I should focus on?

Please do not put contact cleaner anywhere near the connector!

I spent hours stripping both the plug out of a Nissan Leaf, and the sockets out of a tethered connector to try and clean out all the muck that had stuck to the lubricating/corrosion proofing film that contact cleaners leave behind. Also do not use solvents on these connectors, as they use rubber O ring seals to keep water out, and whether or not those seals are compatible with any solvent is unknown.

Compressed air is fine for blowing dust out, and if there really is a need to clean packed dirt out, say if the connector has been dropped in mud, then isolate the supply, dead test and then perhaps use some deionised water and compressed air to blow it out.

I can't begin to describe how difficult it is to get the slightly oily, packed dust residue out from behind the thin leaves in the socket terminals. It literally took hours, with the connector taken apart, to get all the muck out, used a whole box of cotton buds and I concluded in the end that it would have been far quicker to just cut the connector off and crimp on a new one. All because an owner thought it a good idea to spray some contact cleaner in there.

There should be absolutely no need to clean the connector anyway, as they are designed to dry mate and be self-cleaning, and they are very well proven to work just fine for years if they are left dry, and not interfered with.
 

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I've had a PP solo since November 2016. Within the first 6-12 months it developed a fault, and would stop charging and I had to turn it off at the consumer unit, leave it for 5 minutes, then turn it back on and it would be fine for a little while.

Went on like this for a couple of weeks and it got progressively worse, PP sent out an engineer to replace the pcb, and it's been fine ever since.

Is it WiFi connected, so that PP could try to get some information from it and tell you what's wrong?

If you can't get a response from them, maybe try tweeting them or posting on Facebook, the more public the bad news message is, the more likely they'll be to want to look like doing something about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've had a PP solo since November 2016. Within the first 6-12 months it developed a fault, and would stop charging and I had to turn it off at the consumer unit, leave it for 5 minutes, then turn it back on and it would be fine for a little while.

Went on like this for a couple of weeks and it got progressively worse, PP sent out an engineer to replace the pcb, and it's been fine ever since.

Is it WiFi connected, so that PP could try to get some information from it and tell you what's wrong?

If you can't get a response from them, maybe try tweeting them or posting on Facebook, the more public the bad news message is, the more likely they'll be to want to look like doing something about it.


That’s interesting it sounds just like my issue as it’s got progressively worse. And reading above I doubt it’s the connection as I’ve quite a nice set up that’s protected from the weather and I’m careful with the cable management. about the pcb replacement, how much did it cost?

I guess it was free inside warranty,
I've had a PP solo since November 2016. Within the first 6-12 months it developed a fault, and would stop charging and I had to turn it off at the consumer unit, leave it for 5 minutes, then turn it back on and it would be fine for a little while.

Went on like this for a couple of weeks and it got progressively worse, PP sent out an engineer to replace the pcb, and it's been fine ever since.

Is it WiFi connected, so that PP could try to get some information from it and tell you what's wrong?

If you can't get a response from them, maybe try tweeting them or posting on Facebook, the more public the bad news message is, the more likely they'll be to want to look like doing something about it.
Thanks for all the input everyone it’s much appreciated, I’ll have a look at the connections before I do anything cleaning wise. I’ve already tried the cable wiggle so I’m doubting it’s a wire breakage.
That’s interesting about pcb replacement, it sounds just like my issue as it’s got progressively worse. And reading above I doubt it’s the connection as I’ve quite a nice set up that’s protected from the weather and I’m careful with the cable management. About the pcb replacement, how much did it cost?

Was it was free inside warranty?

My guess is this is going to be similar to many appliances where the pcb replacement is the fix, but for the cost you might as well buy a new one. If so it’s ridiculous…

I noticed the Rolec charger has 3 modules, rather than the PP single circuit board, I’m guessing when it comes to repair it will prove to be cheaper and easier with that hardware…
 
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