Thanks - Have ordered the LX from Amazon.
Do the same calculation values apply to a 2015 vehicle where there are 80 cells over the original 88?
Yes, the same Ah figures apply, with 46Ah still being 100% SoH. However as freddy points out the voltage will be lower - full charge on an 88 cell pack is 360.8 volts, on an 80 cell pack its only 328 volts.
So each Ah is worth less energy (kWh) on the 80 cell pack, as power is voltage x current. In theory a new 88 cell pack was 16kWh and the 80 cell pack was 14.5kWh, however it doesn't take long for the older cell type to degrade below 90% SoH and if the newer type degrades more slowly as promised (I don't think anyone has any hard data on this) then after a few years the newer type pack will have more useable capacity and range left despite starting with less when new.
I've seen fairly substantial degradation on my 2011 model with old cells - it was at 39.9Ah at 6 years and 28k miles, its now at 32.5Ah at 9 years and 60k miles. However mine has been driven to near its maximum range on a daily basis every winter and this is hard on the cells. A car which has had an easier life and hasn't been deeply discharged regularly probably wouldn't degrade nearly as much and there are Ion's/C-Zero's similar age and mileage to mine with a lot less degradation - probably down to driving circumstances.
My takeaway from this is that it's false economy to buy an EV which doesn't have much range buffer for your regular journey. If you want the battery to last a long time, ideally get something that can do your daily commute with at least half the battery remaining at the end of the day, (in winter!) this is much easier on the cells, as well as avoiding range anxiety and allowing the car to still make the journey comfortably when there is eventually some degradation.
Of course in the current market climate where long range EV's are still expensive and/or hard to come by, it's not always possible to live by this advice, but it will get easier over the next few years.