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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just had a Pod Point Solo 7.2kW charger installed, and I have had a few problems with the install.. They installed the unit on it's side. Literally, as in 90 degrees out. The stripe is horizontal. They didn't clip the load balancing sensor on properly - it dropped off, and they also forgot to commission the unit. Simple stuff? Dunno. Sign-off and building regs aside, I could have done a better job!

The trouble is, the issues with what I can see make me suspicious about what I can't see.

A quick inspection shows the high amperage cables are terminated reasonably well with no copper exposed etc.

However, I'm not fully convinced with the cable/fuse/promised charging wattage - can I ask other users what setups they have? And if it gives a reliable 7.2kw charge when there are no other heavy loads in the house? My EV doesn't arrive until next week at the earliest, so I can't test anything properly until then.

My incoming supply has a 100a fuse.
I have a dedicated EV Consumer Unit plumbed straight into my meter with 16mm tails.
The dedicated EV CU includes a 63A Type A RCD.
OK so far.
But, I have a type B 32A breaker supplying the Pod Point.
I then have ~35m 6mm SWA running mostly buried underground to my garage
Where I have a 32A double pole isolating switch
Just before the Pod Point unit

Load balancing is enabled and wired up.

I need the full 7.2kW, and I was quoted for a 7.2kW charger.

My calcs leave very little headroom - 7.2kw @ 230v is pretty much 32A, depending on the voltage supplied by the grid. Under voltage may push above the 32A of the breaker.

The Pod Point installation guide suggests a 40A breaker for a 7.2kw charge. A 40A breaker on a 35m long 6mm SWA seems a bit fine cut depending on the source used.

It might be OK, but I feel a need to double check their calculations tally with other EV charger installs! Whilst it's a bit dramatic... My CU and incoming supply is under the stairs, so if the worst was to happen, not only will any fire impact my house, it will also stop me escaping without jumping out of a window...
 

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I had some problems with my PodPoint install last year, since rectified. It was discussEd here: Underground cable - futureproof

However, I would have thought a 40A breaker would be the norm for anything up to the full 7.2kW.

After normal losses the app shows I am getting around 6.2kW max.
 

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After normal losses the app shows I am getting around 6.2kW max.
Isn't that controlled by the car rather than the charge point, or do you think that the charge point is advertising a current limit lower than 32A?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Report it. That's a duff install.
I want to give them chance to rectify it first. It's a local installer, so they should be in the mood to sort it out. Failing that, I specified 7.2kw multiple times, in writing.

However, I would have thought a 40A breaker would be the norm for anything up to the full 7.2kW.
That seems un-negotiable to me. If the installation instructions specify 40A, the CU should be 40A. I can't see any wiggle room. At least I would want an explanation why they believe the 32A is safe for my specified 7.2kw requirement.
 

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It's all sorts of wrong. Why is it using a Type B breaker (should be A or C)? Why is it not 40A? Why is it 90deg out?

Photos would be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Why is it using a Type B breaker (should be A or C)?
According to the instructions, recent units are OK with a type A RCBO.

Why is it not 40A?
I have the same question. I wonder if they made a mistake? Realised the 35m of buried 6mm SWA isn't sufficient for 40A/7.2kW/230v? Perhaps it's 'what they normally do'?

Either way, I'm querying it with them. They should have done the calcs - we agreed that it was not a standard install, and they knew that. Any pre-calculated limits they apply to standard jobs should have been thrown out the window. Incidentally, I had two quotes, both did suggest 6mm cable.

I contracted them to not make these mistakes, so they will sort it! Or I won't pay and get the other guy's company to come and make it safe at their expense. And report it to PP and the NICEIC.

Why is it 90deg out?
Hell knows!!!! They must have seen the text and thought it should go the 'right way round'. Obviously they didn't refer to the mounting guide, or the pictures in the box...

IMG_1305.jpg IMG_1337.jpg IMG_1338.jpg
 

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Isn't that controlled by the car rather than the charge point, or do you think that the charge point is advertising a current limit lower than 32A?
The car will take up to 7kW and the PodPoint will regulate against total load but with electrical losses, I'm satisfied that 6.2kW is good. Also, the voltage at my property is at the lowest end of allowable under the regs, barely 220v, together with a 75m run from the meter. For me 1kW/h makes as little as no difference.

Looks like your installer didn't refer to the installation guide:


143964
 

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They did a great job installing mine. Very neat install exactly as I requested. It was around 16m of cable as well longer than the 15m they allow for but he was happy to do it

I have been told subsequently the setup doesn't meet code as I have a triple phase supply. If this the case no idea it seems to be very well installed to me it's down to the pen protection on triple phase apparently.

Anyway I am very happy with it. They sorted out the grant for me Installed within a week of signing up. I thought £499 was a bargain for a tethered charger install we have had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jeez, it gets worse! I assumed the AC was alternating current. It looks like the RCD is an obsolete, discontinued model. CDC263U | Hager UK

Difficult to ascertain exactly which model it is - there seems to be different variants of the CD 263U Some are the "A" type.
 

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Funnily enough I've only just realised our Chargemaster is on a 32A breaker. According to our smart readings it pulls 7.2kW an hour. Installed by them and its been fine (touchwood) for over two years.

Our previous 3.6kW Podpoint was on a 20 though. Again, installed by them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
According to our smart readings it pulls 7.2kW an hour. Installed by them and its been fine (touchwood) for over two years.
Thanks for this

It might all be OK. But it's one hell of a draw for a sustained duration. I'm no sparky, but I would like to understand why an electrician has signed a piece of work as safe that deviates from installation instructions. It may be that they can explain and justify..
 

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Unfortunaly there are many not great -to poor EV charger installations out there. Including my own, which I havent had the paperwork for, and they mixed MCBs in my CU which is a minor grumble, but still should really not be done. I paid to have mine installed as at the time I couldnt buy the charger as cheap as I could get it installed, and I have not done the EV install course, and currently no intention of doing so.

Wrong type of RCD is possibly the worst offender on your list. The "B32 breaker" is a normal MCB. "B" types are standard in domestic premises Homes, if you have a MCB consumer unit you will probably find they are all B-type. (B6, B20, B32 etc) If you dont have an MCB consumer unit, I strongly recomend an upgrade! Its about time.

7.2KW on a 32A MCB sounds normal to me, thats what my charger is on, and I would expect that 32A MCB to be happy at that all year round assuming a good install. It could be there are other reasons POD Point have recomended a 40A, but it might not be compulsory.


If you have doubts about the standard of your charger install your first port of call should be to the company that installed it to give them a chance to rectify any mistakes/ conserns. Change the RCD, re-orientatre the unit etc. If they refuse to help, or you are still not satisfied, try their Installer scheme provider, that may be Napit, Elecsa, Stroma, NICIEC, or other. They will by default want to give the installer chance to correct any mistakes anyway.

Hope that helps a little.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you have doubts about the standard of your charger install your first port of call should be to the company that installed it to give them a chance to rectify any mistakes/ conserns.
This is where I am at now. Like I said at the start, I fully aim to give them chance to rectify it. They are a local firm and not a national monster. All is amicable, and I aim to keep it that way. But I must feel safe with my installation.

I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and I don't have an EV to test it with yet - so the installation guidelines are all I have to go on. I wouldn't have dug down if the unit wasn't on its side!

I have raised the following points - politely, and in the spirit that I'm only questioning for peace of mind - and if they can explain why they have deviated, and why it's safe - that's OK. Otherwise, I expect it to be fixed. The 32A MCB seems reasonable - it's the limit for the rest. But the 32A switch, the RCD, the sideways install and an error in the certificate need some justification in my opinion.

1. Unit wrong way round & location of unit (not where we agreed)
2. Ability to get as near to 7.2KW as the car will permit
3. MCB/RCDs
4. Jumpers (they look wrong, and it's not my job to fix them!)
5. They need to actually commission it!
6. The installation certificate errors
7. Are they confident on the 6mm SWA? Did they guess 6mm, or do they know 6mm.
 

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I had a 32A breaker on my Rolec 7kW, which was fine for a few years at 14A max for my Ampera. The very first charge with new Ioniq 38 drawing 31.4A lasted 10 mins before the RCD warmed up a bit, derated 1/2 an amp to 31.5A, and tripped. Fitting a B40 fixed it.
 

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I wouldn’t have an issue with the 32a
The fact it’s a 63amp AC rcd is a problem in my opinion, AC rcds are prone to ignoring DC issues and shouldn’t be used with chargers.
Also if your main fuse is 100a your tails should not be 16mm2 but upgraded to 25mm2
 

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Looking at the jumpers, I think they have it set to 0010 1 - 7.2kw for three-phase. I'm on single phase.
Have you looked at the physical settings in the unit? If they are indeed set to 0010-1 I think you‘ll find the unit is set to limit the draw to 2.4kWh if there is only one phase connected, it’ll need three phases connected to allow 7.2kWh with the switches in 0010 The individual switches do not correspond to anything in the table next to it, they are a four digit code to set the upper limit, with an additional tethered(1)/non tethered(0) switch. The table is just telling you what it’s upper limit is and as such what is the minimum install requirements for that setting.
 
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