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Bit of a discussion earlier on this very thread about this (see post #42 onward) - seems some doors will not latch or will open from inside even when handle disabled but @CheesyPuff had to unbolt the door to resolve this. I suspect (hope) there will be an easier way - but can't suggest anything specific to be honest (other than of course making sure the locks are 'unlocked' and trying the inside handle again!).

Good luck!
Bit of a discussion earlier on this very thread about this (see post #42 onward) - seems some doors will not latch or will open from inside even when handle disabled but @CheesyPuff had to unbolt the door to resolve this. I suspect (hope) there will be an easier way - but can't suggest anything specific to be honest (other than of course making sure the locks are 'unlocked' and trying the inside handle again!).

Good luck!
Thanks for the responses. I decided to test the modification before re-fitting the handle and screwing the Torx screw, which appears to be my mistake. Unfortunately access to the edges of the door card is not possible with the door closed, which started an unsuccessful search for any other means of releasing the catch.
Thanks therefore to @modo for ending my anguish and pointing to the measures a previous victim took to resolve the problem. In my case this means removing the rear door to access the Torx screw in the front passenger door - which I will attempt tomorrow.
Just for information, the car is a Volt my 2013.
Thanks again.
 

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Set about trying to enable the operation of the door handles this morning. As previously experienced the only solution seems to be the removal of the rear door to gain access to the Torx screw.
In practice, the bolts holding the door are long enough to loosen enough to gain access to the Torx screw, the retaining strap does need to be removed though.
The door retaining bolts are dowelled, so the door does not need re- aligning.
 

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Hello all. I just found this thread because i ordered @HandyAndy door button kit. I have a 2016 Volt. I read the kits included instructions and breezed through this thread for any bits of "this worked for me" advice. Anyway, I had discrepancies from the git go. I started on the drivers side rear door. The Torx behind the grommet seems to do nothing more than hold the dummy cylinder moulding in place. So backing the torx out a bit and removing the cylinder allows the door handle to slide rearward and disengage from the spring loaded lock actuator assembly. I had to narrow down the steel strip to allow it to fit into the handle. But the door handle black plastic insert only had two small tabs for the dismantler tool nut to apply outward pressure to. Anyway, one of the tabs gave way, so it looks like using multiple spudgers / small screwdrivers and prying the chrome cover off is my option right now. I've decided to reassemble everything and post my dilemma. So any other gen II volts have this issue.Tthanks
 

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Hmm, I'll have to look at this! Mine's a gen1, but doubt that makes any sense. My front foor covers certainly aren't chrome - it's the same paint as car, and everything's plastic except the tiny bit on the tip of the push-button is chrome. I'll take a look at the online Volt service manual & see what they say about removong the rear door handles, can't see why they'd be any different from from the front ones.

The Torx on the front locks seems to be mo important than just lockign the face cylinder in place; it has an action to do with releasing the entire locking thing, somehow. I admit I don't know exactly what or why; I've simply followed instructions in the service manual about turning it all the way in/out.

Thx for mention about the plate. Recent ones are 2mm thick as I can't find the type of strip I want in 1.5mm. Maybe that extra 0.5mm is enough to catch in the gap. My rears are ok, as hardly used, but clearly I'd better do one just to test & take some pics! Rather busy printing PPE at the mo, though!
 

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Set about trying to enable the operation of the door handles this morning. As previously experienced the only solution seems to be the removal of the rear door to gain access to the Torx screw.
In practice, the bolts holding the door are long enough to loosen enough to gain access to the Torx screw, the retaining strap does need to be removed though.
The door retaining bolts are dowelled, so the door does not need re- aligning.
The clear lesson here is that the Torx screw needs to be fully tightened and the door button and handle tested with the door still open.

This is how I did it:
  1. The mechanism or catch that secures the door in the closed position is easy enough to push in with a finger. Mine was covered in grease so this was a bit messy but nowhere near as dangerous as the mechanism on my old MG that was clearly designed to slice off tips of fingers!
  2. The door can then be locked by pushing down the pin (lock rod) on the inside of the door (the door will refuse to stay locked if the catch is in the open position) - with the door locked try the handle - it should not move.
  3. Press the button on the handle and try again - the door should unlock and the handle should pull out sufficiently to cause the catch to click back to the "door open" position.
  4. That test should prove the operation a success!
I have replaced all four door buttons three of them using original GM replacement door handles - Andy's replacements and methodology have proved to be, by far, the easiest, most efficient, and most cost effective!

On two occasions, when installing the GM replacement door handles, I managed to break the unexpectedly flimsy integral bracket that secures the control cable for the inner handle to the door trim - this is so easy to do when struggling to unplug the electrical connector with the trim suspended on this cable and the electrical harness.

The big plus with Andy's system is that the door trim does not need to be touched at all.
 
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Discussion Starter #87
Hello all. I just found this thread because i ordered @HandyAndy door button kit. I have a 2016 Volt. ...
Ah, penny has just dropped; you bought an item designed for Mk1, hoping it would fix your Mk2 problem!

...Anyway, one of the tabs gave way, so it looks like using multiple spudgers / small screwdrivers and prying the chrome cover off is my option right now. I've decided to reassemble everything and post my dilemma...
Ouch, sorry to here something broke. The Mk1 covers are almost impossible to disassemble using multiple spudgers/small screwdrivers, and it's damn dangerous as a result. But I worry that using my rechnique of forcing the 2 pieces apart in the middle might crack the chrome finish on your covers? Could be a risky process! Was it easy to split the 2 pieces apart, or did you struggle? Did my dismantler actually help you? Or have you decided to put it ll back in the car before actually separating it all?

... So any other gen II volts have this issue.
Did you mean "so many other gen II volts have this issue." ? I'm not sure I have the capacity to mfr for that car as well. Also, we don't have the Mk2 here in UK for me to test it on! But if it uses the same switch as Mk1, then I think GM have made a bad mistake. Mk1 switch must have cost them a lot of money in warranty repairs - I had one switch replaced that way, and the entire handle assembly was replaced - must have included the radio transmitter thing as well!
 

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Ah, penny has just dropped; you bought an item designed for Mk1, hoping it would fix your Mk2 problem!


Ouch, sorry to here something broke. The Mk1 covers are almost impossible to disassemble using multiple spudgers/small screwdrivers, and it's damn dangerous as a result. But I worry that using my rechnique of forcing the 2 pieces apart in the middle might crack the chrome finish on your covers? Could be a risky process! Was it easy to split the 2 pieces apart, or did you struggle? Did my dismantler actually help you? Or have you decided to put it ll back in the car before actually separating it all?


Did you mean "so many other gen II volts have this issue." ? I'm not sure I have the capacity to mfr for that car as well. Also, we don't have the Mk2 here in UK for me to test it on! But if it uses the same switch as Mk1, then I think GM have made a bad mistake. Mk1 switch must have cost them a lot of money in warranty repairs - I had one switch replaced that way, and the entire handle assembly was replaced - must have included the radio transmitter thing as well!

Ok, So the switches are meant for a Volt Gen 1 handle replacement. I haven't tried to pry the two handle pieces apart, seems sketchy and would most likely result in a broken piece. I was waiting to hear back from you and your service manual searching before attempting the handle surgery. No, unfortunately the dismantler tool didn't work. There wasn't enough surface area for the square nut to exert outward pressure to.
I'm in a discussion group here (GM-Volt.com) and I believe that's where someone referenced buying your switch kit. I assumed there are more Gen II Volts out there that have this handle issue.
Once I locate a GM part #, I'll search for a entire handle assembly and pull the interior door panel to access the connector. (and to retrieve my torx socket as well ..LoL).
If you hear of any Gen I Volt in the states needing the switches,send them my way, I just happen to have 4.
If you want, once I replace mine, I can send you the Gen II handle for you to do some R&D on in your spare time.

Gary
 

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Seems like I have a big problem now; I tried to replace the buttons on both of the doors of the drivers side. I was working on it, had both handles removed with the torx bolt still in open position. The parking lot is not in front of my house, and I had to leave the car for a moment. I closed both doors, thinking I could open them from inside and entering the car from the other side.
Unfortunately both doors do not respond to both the outside- and inside handles. I'm kinda desperate now, I need the car for the family.
 

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Seems like I have a big problem now; I tried to replace the buttons on both of the doors of the drivers side. I was working on it, had both handles removed with the torx bolt still in open position. The parking lot is not in front of my house, and I had to leave the car for a moment. I closed both doors, thinking I could open them from inside and entering the car from the other side.
Unfortunately both doors do not respond to both the outside- and inside handles. I'm kinda desperate now, I need the car for the family.
Is your Volt a gen I or gen II?
I have a 2016, so I only have experience with the Gen II handles. Image 1 shows the rear door mechanism with the door in the closed position. an arrow points toward the pivot point the door handle actuates when you open it. The door handle pulls this point towards you.
Image 2 shows that door mechanism pivoted to the open position by using a screwdriver. You could try and manually actuate this with some wire or string.

Good luck,
Gary
 

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Is your Volt a gen I or gen II?
I have a 2016, so I only have experience with the Gen II handles. Image 1 shows the rear door mechanism with the door in the closed position. an arrow points toward the pivot point the door handle actuates when you open it. The door handle pulls this point towards you.
Image 2 shows that door mechanism pivoted to the open position by using a screwdriver. You could try and manually actuate this with some wire or string.

Good luck,
Gary
If this works - this could (have) help(ed) @emf and the others who had the issue of doors locking shut during repair.
 

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I managed to open both doors. @OregonVolt: Thanks a lot for your suggestion and pictures, unfortunately the locking mechanism of a 1st gen is different.

I opened the front door by lowering the window and use a long rod to insert between the window and the outer metal of the door. That way I could push the mechanism to release the lock.

That did't work for the passenger door because of the frame for the small fixed window; there was no way to insert the rod high enough for leverage. I broke of the two small plastic nodges that hold the locking mechanism in place on the outside, thereby making it possible to move the locking mechanism just enough inside the door (by rotating it a little from the outside) to move the internal lever just enough to open the lock. Insertion of the handle and handle-end will keep the mechanism in place.

Hope this might help someone else facing the same problem, but as a fair warning: Do not close the door when servicing the door handles :).
 

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I managed to open both doors. @OregonVolt: Thanks a lot for your suggestion and pictures, unfortunately the locking mechanism of a 1st gen is different.

I opened the front door by lowering the window and use a long rod to insert between the window and the outer metal of the door. That way I could push the mechanism to release the lock.

That did't work for the passenger door because of the frame for the small fixed window; there was no way to insert the rod high enough for leverage. I broke of the two small plastic nodges that hold the locking mechanism in place on the outside, thereby making it possible to move the locking mechanism just enough inside the door (by rotating it a little from the outside) to move the internal lever just enough to open the lock. Insertion of the handle and handle-end will keep the mechanism in place.

Hope this might help someone else facing the same problem, but as a fair warning: Do not close the door when servicing the door handles :).
raldnor.... Glad to help even thou it wasn't applicable to your Gen I.
 
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