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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up my new MG ZS EV today and now home trying unsuccessfully to charge on a Rolec 7.2kw tethered home charger (4 year old model - see pic below). The unit was professionally installed and I鈥檝e no power line or other adapters on my wiring.

Charger is ready (blue continuous light) however car says "connected but not charging" 馃槶. Car charges fine on the granny charger as well as CCS so looks like it might be the Rolec charger (older model) at fault.

Before I call out an engineer, any words of wisdom from the group?

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Have you re-set the Rolec breaker? Don't forget that the rocker has to be pushed down firmly before being pushed upwards to latch.
 

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Worth a try - next is to try your car on someone else's tethered home charger and for them to try their car on yours. But we don't know your location to find a volunteer.
 

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Hi - Pete.
Just one other thing to check now, do you have access to another 7kw wall box, either at a friends / families house ?.
If not, do you have a 7kw public charger close buy, maybe a super market etc etc.
Oh ......... How far away is your local dealer ?.
They will have a wall box surely.
Then this is the final check before you call the EV wall box installer.
If the car charges fine on another 7kw post, then you have proven that the problem is NOT with car and is therefore a problem with the wall box at your home address.
If it DOES fail to charge on another 7kw post, then it could well be a software issue on the car, but I very much doubt that.
I strongly suspect your wall box or the even the type 2 cable, because it is likely that dealer used a 7kw wall box to charge your car before collection.
Daft question - Why has the wall box gone unused for over 3 years, was it installed prior to you moving into the house or something ?.
Is it a tethered or an untethered unit Pete.
If untethered, where did the charging cable come from, is it a new cable or the original one that came with the wall box.
If the cable is suspect, then trying to charge on another post will only produce the same effect.
Process of elimination I am afraid Pete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi - Pete.
Just one other thing to check now, do you have access to another 7kw wall box, either at a friends / families house ?.
If not, do you have a 7kw public charger close buy, maybe a super market etc etc.
Oh ......... How far away is your local dealer ?.
They will have a wall box surely.
Then this is the final check before you call the EV wall box installer.
If the car charges fine on another 7kw post, then you have proven that the problem is NOT with car and is therefore a problem with the wall box at your home address.
If it DOES fail to charge on another 7kw post, then it could well be a software issue on the car, but I very much doubt that.
I strongly suspect your wall box or the even the type 2 cable, because it is likely that dealer used a 7kw wall box to charge your car before collection.
Daft question - Why has the wall box gone unused for over 3 years, was it installed prior to you moving into the house or something ?.
Is it a tethered or an untethered unit Pete.
If untethered, where did the charging cable come from, is it a new cable or the original one that came with the wall box.
If the cable is suspect, then trying to charge on another post will only produce the same effect.
Process of elimination I am afraid Pete.
Carty,

I鈥檒l see if I can try a neighbours or supermarket 7.2kw. Mine was installed 5 years ago as I had an Audi Etron (PHEV). It was a company car and went back when I left. It is tethered.

I鈥檓 pretty sure it will be the wall box, but a few more tests to try before I bite the bullet and get that spark 馃
 

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Carty,

I鈥檒l see if I can try a neighbours or supermarket 7.2kw. Mine was installed 5 years ago as I had an Audi Etron (PHEV). It was a company car and went back when I left. It is tethered.

I鈥檓 pretty sure it will be the wall box, but a few more tests to try before I bite the bullet and get that spark 馃
Aarhhh - Right !.
Another question sorry Pete.
But my previous car was a VW Golf GTE which in most sense of the word, is very similar to the A3 e.tron.
When I was choosing my Rolec box about five years ago, I decided to go for the larger 32 Amp unit to help future proof myself.
Just in case I followed down the natural path going for a full BEV.
So, do you have a 16 Amp or a 32 Amp unit ?.
Both will charge the e.tron okay because the car will regulate down the larger unit fine.
But if you are running on the smaller 16 Amp unit, than this is going to be slow charging the ZS EV.
I think it is only providing the same juice as your MG supplied 鈥淕ranny鈥 unit if that is the case.
If this is the case, you may want to upgrade your wall box before you spend any money on the old unit.
If you are not sure, look on the side of the black and white type 2 plug that you use to charge the car.
On the side of the charging plug, it will have either 16 or 32 Amp stamped on the side.
 

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If it's been unused for three years it's likely that the internal contacts - both in the box and in the plug head - are tarnished and not making good contact. It's only frequent plugging and unplugging that keeps them clean. Perhaps isolate at the mains and poke sandpaper wrapped around a stick in the plug holes to clean them might work. The main one is the signal wire as that 'authorises' the main contactor to switch on. Only a five-minute check and who knows....................
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Aarhhh - Right !.
Another question sorry Pete.
But my previous car was a VW Golf GTE which in most sense of the word, is very similar to the A3 e.tron.
When I was choosing my Rolec box about five years ago, I decided to go for the larger 32 Amp unit to help future proof myself.
Just in case I followed down the natural path going for a full BEV.
So, do you have a 16 Amp or a 32 Amp unit ?.
Both will charge the e.tron okay because the car will regulate down the larger unit fine.
But if you are running on the smaller 16 Amp unit, than this is going to be slow charging the ZS EV.
I think it is only providing the same juice as your MG supplied 鈥淕ranny鈥 unit if that is the case.
If this is the case, you may want to upgrade your wall box before you spend any money on the old unit.
If you are not sure, look on the side of the black and white type 2 plug that you use to charge the car.
On the side of the charging plug, it will have either 16 or 32 Amp stamped on the side.
I鈥檓 pretty sure it鈥檚 the 32 amp version as the fuse installed was a 32 amp. However will check tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If it's been unused for three years it's likely that the internal contacts - both in the box and in the plug head - are tarnished and not making good contact. It's only frequent plugging and unplugging that keeps them clean. Perhaps isolate at the mains and poke sandpaper wrapped around a stick in the plug holes to clean them might work. The main one is the signal wire as that 'authorises' the main contactor to switch on. Only a five-minute check and who knows....................
Ok, I avoided the sandpaper trick - I鈥檝e done something like that before for poor connections. I thought I鈥檇 use the WD 40 Contact Cleaner would do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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You should hear a really loud CLUNK when the Rolec closes the contactor to begin the charge. Do you?
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You should hear a really loud CLUNK when the Rolec closes the contactor to begin the charge. Do you?
No, the car locks the cable with a motorised whir. It then clunks and 10 or so seconds later tries again.
 

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No, the car locks the cable with a motorised whir. It then clunks and 10 or so seconds later tries again.
Where is the clunk car end or charger end. The contactors are in the Rolec box and that is where the loud clunk should be evident. If it clunks then there should be a connection for the juice to reach the car. I鈥檓 not an electrical engineer but from what I鈥檝e read about evse the handshake has taken place and the box and the car are happy when the clunk happens. So at that point it might just be the contactor that needs swapping. 拢17 from EVbitz. From what I can see chargers are the preserve of electricians only because there are some idiots about. (I fitted gas boilers as a hobby in the 1970s just don鈥檛 use a candle to look for gas leaks, water leaks it鈥檚 ok!)
Contactors do all the hard work throwing the switch to carry the heavy current, though I believe that the MG may have a soft start facility going by my smart meter readings. (Yes the meter is delayed in its display, but I often think it is charging at 2-3kwh and then it ramps up and on cold nights not to 7kwh). It could be that dirt and carbon built up by previous arcing has now caused it to fail. I鈥檇 take a punt and swap it before paying a call out charge.

 

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but from what I鈥檝e read about evse the handshake has taken place and the box and the car are happy when the clunk happens
First clunk comes at the wall box followed by a double clunk at the car end. Charging starts straight away after.
 
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Have you tried the car on another 7W?
Where do you live (roughly)? I'm sure someone would be happy to come round to check their car at your house?
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Have you tried the car on another 7W?
Where do you live (roughly)? I'm sure someone would be happy to come round to check their car at your house?
I鈥檓 up in central Scotland (Lanark). I鈥檓 as convinced as I can be it鈥檚 the charger as all others work. I鈥檒l see if I can find a local who鈥檇 be willing to let me test
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Where is the clunk car end or charger end. The contactors are in the Rolec box and that is where the loud clunk should be evident. If it clunks then there should be a connection for the juice to reach the car. I鈥檓 not an electrical engineer but from what I鈥檝e read about evse the handshake has taken place and the box and the car are happy when the clunk happens. So at that point it might just be the contactor that needs swapping. 拢17 from EVbitz. From what I can see chargers are the preserve of electricians only because there are some idiots about. (I fitted gas boilers as a hobby in the 1970s just don鈥檛 use a candle to look for gas leaks, water leaks it鈥檚 ok!)
Contactors do all the hard work throwing the switch to carry the heavy current, though I believe that the MG may have a soft start facility going by my smart meter readings. (Yes the meter is delayed in its display, but I often think it is charging at 2-3kwh and then it ramps up and on cold nights not to 7kwh). It could be that dirt and carbon built up by previous arcing has now caused it to fail. I鈥檇 take a punt and swap it before paying a call out charge.

No sound from the rolec unit so I am pretty convinced it鈥檚 faulty. I鈥檓 ok wiring up a socket so will have a look at the box and the part you鈥檝e referenced. I will err on the side of caution though as whilst I can ensure I don鈥檛 get fried by isolating the unit, I can鈥檛 say the same to my brand new ZS if I wire up wrongly.
 
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