Have you had a look inside at the RCBO?
Rolec charger problem
Picked up my new #TeamRed ZS EV today and now home trying unsuccessfully to charge on a Rolec 7.2kw tethered home charger (4 year old model - see pic below). The unit was professionally installed and I’ve no power line or other adapters on my wiring.
Charger is ready (blue continuous light) however car says "connected but not charging" 😭. Car charges fine on the from granny charger as well as CCS so looks like it might be the Rolec charger (older model) at fault.
Before I call out an engineer, any words of wisdom from the group?
![138386]()
Charger is ready (blue continuous light) however car says "connected but not charging" 😭. Car charges fine on the from granny charger as well as CCS so looks like it might be the Rolec charger (older model) at fault.
Before I call out an engineer, any words of wisdom from the group?
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
It was dark and raining when I got home so no 😁. I’m not very electrically competent, however if the cover is easily removed I can isolate at fuse box and have a look.Have you had a look inside at the RCBO?
Presume your thinking the RCBO may have burnt out/fused (saw this one my searches for possible causes)
Yep - Could will be another RCBO burn out.Have you had a look inside at the RCBO?
What was the unit charging prior and when was it used last, was it working okay before you went to charge the ZS EV ?.
With the wall box being a few years old, what colour is the RCBO breaker unit in the wall box ?.
Lift up the cover on the wall box and the trip switch will either be blue or green.
Both are susceptible to failure, but the blue RCBO's are the original ones used by Rolec and are a massive failure point.
Regardless of the colour, try the trip switch.
Is it working correctly when you hit the test button and does it reset ?.
This is the first sign that the RCBO is starting to fail when the trip switch is not working correctly.
My box is about 5 years old now and is on it's third RCBO already.
The first blue unit lasted 10 days, the second blue one last about 3 years I think and it was only charging my previous PHEV at 3.6kw for a max of about 2 hours at a time.
As soon as I started charging the ZS EV for longer periods, it did not take long to finish of the breaker ( about 6 to 8 weeks ).
I replaced it with the newer green design RCBO unit in Feb this year and I am monitoring its progress every couple of months now.
I do have a Garo replacement RCBO waiting in the wings.
ONLY IF - You feel comfortable to remove the front cover and check the condition of the RCBO, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ensure you have correctly proven the supply dead to the unit first, or you could end up being in the same condition !.
If you are in ANYWAY unsure at all, please do NOT proceed.
The front cover is held in place by six number 2 pozi screws that retain the front to the rear cover.
The six screws have a habit of falling out and getting lost on the floor when you tip down the front to inspect the inside of the wall box.
You can not completely remove the front cover away from the rear cover, unless you disconnect the bullet connectors from the multifunction warning light on the front.
The wires are colour coded, so you can't get them wrong.
If you just want to carry out a visual check of the RCBO, you can do this okay, but you will have to support the front cover while you are checking.
There is plenty of images on the forum that will make identifying the problem very easy to spot.
But you will smell the problem even before you actually see it !.
The negative conductor is the most likely cause of over heating.
When you refit the front cover, do not over tighten the six screws or it will result in breaking the plastic fixing towers from the rear casing of the unit.
If you are unsure, ask a friendly spark to check the RCBO for you.
Will check the trip switch and then decide.Yep - Could will be another RCBO burn out.
What was the unit charging prior and when was it used last, was it working okay before you went to charge the ZS EV ?.
With the wall box being a few years old, what colour is the RCBO breaker unit in the wall box ?.
Lift up the cover on the wall box and the trip switch will either be blue or green.
Both are susceptible to failure, but the blue RCBO's are the original ones used by Rolec and are a massive failure point.
Regardless of the colour, try the trip switch.
Is it working correctly when you hit the test button and does it reset ?.
This is the first sign that the RCBO is starting to fail when the trip switch is not working correctly.
My box is about 5 years old now and is on it's third RCBO already.
The first blue unit lasted 10 days, the second blue one last about 3 years I think and it was only charging my previous PHEV at 3.6kw for a max of about 2 hours at a time.
As soon as I started charging the ZS EV for longer periods, it did not take long to finish of the breaker ( about 6 to 8 weeks ).
I replaced it with the newer green design RCBO unit in Feb this year and I am monitoring its progress every couple of months now.
I do have a Garo replacement RCBO waiting in the wings.
ONLY IF - You feel comfortable to remove the front cover and check the condition of the RCBO, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ensure you have correctly proven the supply dead to the unit first, or you could end up being in the same condition !.
If you are in ANYWAY unsure at all, please do NOT proceed.
The front cover is held in place by six number 2 pozi screws that retain the front to the rear cover.
The six screws have a habit of falling out and getting lost on the floor when you tip down the front to inspect the inside of the wall box.
You can not completely remove the front cover away from the rear cover, unless you disconnect the bullet connectors from the multifunction warning light on the front.
The wires are colour coded, so you can't get them wrong.
If you just want to carry out a visual check of the RCBO, you can do this okay, but you will have to support the front cover while you are checking.
There is plenty of images on the forum that will make identifying the problem very easy to spot.
But you will smell the problem even before you actually see it !.
The negative conductor is the most likely cause of over heating.
When you refit the front cover, do not over tighten the six screws or it will result in breaking the plastic fixing towers from the rear casing of the unit.
If you are unsure, ask a friendly spark to check the RCBO for you.
Hasn't been used to charge anything for over 2 years
Well it's an easy one to check. Just remove the front cover and check for any burn marks/signs of melting.Presume your thinking the RCBO may have burnt out/fused (saw this one my searches for possible causes)
The OP says the blue light is on so power is passing through the RCBO.
Does the contractor operate (Loud clunk after plugging in)? If not then either the car is not calling for charge or the unit is not responding. If the contactor is faulty, you would hear a very quiet click when the car trys to call for charge. It’s a tiny relay inside the controller so you’d probably have to take the front off to hear it.
If you can hear that then the contactor is not picking up in response to the controller. If you can’t then the controller isn’t trying to charge. In that case it could either be the car, which is unlikely if it works with a other charger.
You could try to check the connections to the controller, particularly the CP and PX ones. Have a look at the resistor connected between PX and PE. That tells the controller the rating of the cable. If it’s loose, the controller may refuse to charge.
Does the contractor operate (Loud clunk after plugging in)? If not then either the car is not calling for charge or the unit is not responding. If the contactor is faulty, you would hear a very quiet click when the car trys to call for charge. It’s a tiny relay inside the controller so you’d probably have to take the front off to hear it.
If you can hear that then the contactor is not picking up in response to the controller. If you can’t then the controller isn’t trying to charge. In that case it could either be the car, which is unlikely if it works with a other charger.
You could try to check the connections to the controller, particularly the CP and PX ones. Have a look at the resistor connected between PX and PE. That tells the controller the rating of the cable. If it’s loose, the controller may refuse to charge.
Great helpful post👍👍👍👍Yep - Could will be another RCBO burn out.
What was the unit charging prior and when was it used last, was it working okay before you went to charge the ZS EV ?.
With the wall box being a few years old, what colour is the RCBO breaker unit in the wall box ?.
Lift up the cover on the wall box and the trip switch will either be blue or green.
Both are susceptible to failure, but the blue RCBO's are the original ones used by Rolec and are a massive failure point.
Regardless of the colour, try the trip switch.
Is it working correctly when you hit the test button and does it reset ?.
This is the first sign that the RCBO is starting to fail when the trip switch is not working correctly.
My box is about 5 years old now and is on it's third RCBO already.
The first blue unit lasted 10 days, the second blue one last about 3 years I think and it was only charging my previous PHEV at 3.6kw for a max of about 2 hours at a time.
As soon as I started charging the ZS EV for longer periods, it did not take long to finish of the breaker ( about 6 to 8 weeks ).
I replaced it with the newer green design RCBO unit in Feb this year and I am monitoring its progress every couple of months now.
I do have a Garo replacement RCBO waiting in the wings.
ONLY IF - You feel comfortable to remove the front cover and check the condition of the RCBO, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE ensure you have correctly proven the supply dead to the unit first, or you could end up being in the same condition !.
If you are in ANYWAY unsure at all, please do NOT proceed.
The front cover is held in place by six number 2 pozi screws that retain the front to the rear cover.
The six screws have a habit of falling out and getting lost on the floor when you tip down the front to inspect the inside of the wall box.
You can not completely remove the front cover away from the rear cover, unless you disconnect the bullet connectors from the multifunction warning light on the front.
The wires are colour coded, so you can't get them wrong.
If you just want to carry out a visual check of the RCBO, you can do this okay, but you will have to support the front cover while you are checking.
There is plenty of images on the forum that will make identifying the problem very easy to spot.
But you will smell the problem even before you actually see it !.
The negative conductor is the most likely cause of over heating.
When you refit the front cover, do not over tighten the six screws or it will result in breaking the plastic fixing towers from the rear casing of the unit.
If you are unsure, ask a friendly spark to check the RCBO for you.
Great advice, just to say that when my RCBO was on the point of complete failure and the trip switch had already failed, the wall box was still showing the blue / green status lights on the front and was pulling in the contacThe OP says the blue light is on so power is passing through the RCBO.
Does the contractor operate (Loud clunk after plugging in)? If not then either the car is not calling for charge or the unit is not responding. If the contactor is faulty, you would hear a very quiet click when the car trys to call for charge. It’s a tiny relay inside the controller so you’d probably have to take the front off to hear it.
If you can hear that then the contactor is not picking up in response to the controller. If you can’t then the controller isn’t trying to charge. In that case it could either be the car, which is unlikely if it works with a other charger.
You could try to check the connections to the controller, particularly the CP and PX ones. Have a look at the resistor connected between PX and PE. That tells the controller the rating of the cable. If it’s loose, the controller may refuse to charge.
But the line connector on the negative terminal was completely fried !.
I will try and include a picture.
Yep, it can still light up even when the RCBO is faulty.The OP says the blue light is on so power is passing through the RCBO.
Also it will behave weirdly.
Thank youGreat helpful post👍👍👍👍
.Oh .... Just to say before anybody asks.
ALL of the connections on the RCBO was fully torqued to the correct spec by the installer on the the day the new breaker was first installed.
I was present when the original installer removed the front cover to find the fault, the first thing he did was check the termination screws, all was absolutely solid.
The conclusion was it was indeed a fault within the RCBO itself.
If you study the image, you can see that the RCBO is showing signs of the casing starting to “spread / part” at the line / live terminal also.
Another good early sign that the unit is about to fail when the out casing starts to separate due to the excess heat developing inside of the unit.
ALL of the connections on the RCBO was fully torqued to the correct spec by the installer on the the day the new breaker was first installed.
I was present when the original installer removed the front cover to find the fault, the first thing he did was check the termination screws, all was absolutely solid.
The conclusion was it was indeed a fault within the RCBO itself.
If you study the image, you can see that the RCBO is showing signs of the casing starting to “spread / part” at the line / live terminal also.
Another good early sign that the unit is about to fail when the out casing starts to separate due to the excess heat developing inside of the unit.
Car does try and connect (motorised clunk), and cable is locked in place but no charge. I've cleaned the connectors with WD 40 Contact Cleaner without any luck.The OP says the blue light is on so power is passing through the RCBO.
Does the contractor operate (Loud clunk after plugging in)? If not then either the car is not calling for charge or the unit is not responding. If the contactor is faulty, you would hear a very quiet click when the car trys to call for charge. It’s a tiny relay inside the controller so you’d probably have to take the front off to hear it.
If you can hear that then the contactor is not picking up in response to the controller. If you can’t then the controller isn’t trying to charge. In that case it could either be the car, which is unlikely if it works with a other charger.
You could try to check the connections to the controller, particularly the CP and PX ones. Have a look at the resistor connected between PX and PE. That tells the controller the rating of the cable. If it’s loose, the controller may refuse to charge.
Given it works on both CCS and granny chargers it must be my Rolec unit.
Spark required methinks
So. How does it look inside the box?
I haven’t looked yet, raining again today. Need a dry day to open the box.So. How does it look inside the box?
Wear your wellies and use an umbrella, you’ll be fine.I haven’t looked yet, raining again today. Need a dry day to open the box.
And turn it off at the CU first.
Useful to know. I still have a blue RCBO and it’s still fine after 5 years. You wouldn’t expect one that looks like the picture to be powering anything!Great advice, just to say that when my RCBO was on the point of complete failure and the trip switch had already failed, the wall box was still showing the blue / green status lights on the front and was pulling in the contac
But the line connector on the negative terminal was completely fried !.
Are you using a 32 Amp 7kw unit or the reduced 3.5kw unit and how long are your charging sessions for ?.Useful to know. I still have a blue RCBO and it’s still fine after 5 years. You wouldn’t expect one that looks like the picture to be powering anything!
The amount of power / load pulled and the length of time it is charging for is the big factor here.
My previous car was a PHEV so only pulling 3.5 kw for a maximum of 2 hours 45 mins to charge the small battery from empty to full.
The larger packs in a BEV are pulling the max 7.5 kw for upwards of 6 hours to fill the battery.
A larger load over a much larger time scale is very likely to produce more heat.
You may find this a little hard to believe, but the wall box had charged the car on the previous evening and the issue was only found when the front cover was removed with the intension of installing a Wi-Fi switch to control the delayed charging facility.Useful to know. I still have a blue RCBO and it’s still fine after 5 years. You wouldn’t expect one that looks like the picture to be powering anything!
I now have little faith in these Rolec branded RCBO's.
At first I though I was just unlucky to have a faulty unit, however now I am on third unit in five years, so therefore I think it is safe to discount luck from the equation.
The present Rolec RCBO was installed in Feb 20.
I have a feeling somehow it will be lucky to make it to it's 1st Birthday !.
I will not remove it, until it displays any sign's of either failing / burning.
At this point I will be totally comfortable to declare this RCBO's as not for purpose.
It may prove me wrong, but I don't think so.
Proving a good valid point is a bit of a "Faff" because for safety reason's, I am removing the front from the wall box about every 6 to 8 weeks.
But it is a necessary evil !.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
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