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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
:cry: I've only had the vehicle a few weeks now. Came with a full main dealer service history (apart from last service, independent). The car would not accept a charge this afternoon, engine management light is on, plus Service High Voltage System warning on the dash. When I plug in the granny charger the amber/orange light on the dash stays on, no green lights or horn beep. Is there anything that I can try, before having to take it to a dealer? I have tried using a different plug socket, opening closing the socket door several times using the remote or button in the vehicle. The socket in the car looks dry, no signs of any damp etc.

Since owning, I have managed to free off both the door mirrors which were seized. Fitted a new lower front bumper trim (smaller profile one), added mesh to the lower bumper & spent numerous hours cleaning & polishing it.

I am truly gutted & feel sick. The car is excellent, lovely to drive & incredibly economical. I purchased it private sale, so there's nothing I can do about that side of things.


Update

Cars in the dealer. They have diagnosed a faulty battery system coolant sensor, plus 2 system updates. Only problem is that there are no coolant sensors in the country. So going to have to wait a week. I'm looking on the positive side, it's a simple fix & not too pricey. They did a health check on the rest of the car & all good apart from the fluid in the puncture repair kit needs replacing. So far the dealer has been great, I'm just looking forward to getting the car back 馃槑

Further Update

:)
Happy to say that the car is back from the dealer. It got a clean bill of health, new sensor fitted & 2 software updates.Charging & driving lovely.

Thanks for all the messages & suggestions
 

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it's most likley a problem with the Granny charger rather than the Ampera, the two hve to communicate to start the charging process.look up the J1772 protocol for how that works. practically there are two things you can do.
1/ clean the socket connections with contact cleaner or alcohol to see if it's just dirty
2/ go to a public charger that supports J1772 ( see zap map for locations) if the Ampera charges there then the granny is faulty.
 

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Codes. We need codes. It is very common issue otherwise. Usually it is flaky level sensor for battery coolant reservoir. If it triggers, you must reflash the HPCM2 module to release it (which is usually done at the dealer, but can be done at home if you have correct tools).

Pop the hood, check if level in battery coolant reservoir is OK. If yes, get a good error reader and take out error codes. They will most likely be P1E00, P1FFF and P0AA6. If yes, you need a software update,
 

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Codes. We need codes. It is very common issue otherwise. Usually it is flaky level sensor for battery coolant reservoir. If it triggers, you must reflash the HPCM2 module to release it (which is usually done at the dealer, but can be done at home if you have correct tools).

Pop the hood, check if level in battery coolant reservoir is OK. If yes, get a good error reader and take out error codes. They will most likely be P1E00, P1FFF and P0AA6. If yes, you need a software update,
Just to note that I had the SHVCS warning come up and changed the coolant sensor for a resistor instead, but still keep getting the error from time-to-time, BUT ... I can clear the faults (P0AA6, P1F0E, P1FFF etc.) using Torque Pro on Android with a cheap ELM bluetooth OBD dongle. So, it's clearly not always the dodgy sensor that triggers this problem, and it is possible (at least in my case - and several times) to clear the faults and charge as normal, without needing a dealer visit. Hope that helps.
 

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If fault reappears again after fitting resistor, it is probably dodgy connection. Sensor cable is grafted to cable couple dm lower down. The bodge is under insulation tape. If this corrodes, you will still experience bad connection despite fitting resistor further up. In that case, you have to unwind the splice and solder resistor lower down.
 

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If fault reappears again after fitting resistor, it is probably dodgy connection. Sensor cable is grafted to cable couple dm lower down. The bodge is under insulation tape. If this corrodes, you will still experience bad connection despite fitting resistor further up. In that case, you have to unwind the splice and solder resistor lower down.
Thanks for the advice, but the sensor cable bodge is (I believe) specific to the early 2011/2012 models, and I have a 2013 model Ampera which I think had a new wiring loom to include the battery coolant level sensor. I'll take another look, but at the moment I just keep the ELM bluetooth OBD in the car 馃槄
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Codes. We need codes. It is very common issue otherwise. Usually it is flaky level sensor for battery coolant reservoir. If it triggers, you must reflash the HPCM2 module to release it (which is usually done at the dealer, but can be done at home if you have correct tools).

Pop the hood, check if level in battery coolant reservoir is OK. If yes, get a good error reader and take out error codes. They will most likely be P1E00, P1FFF and P0AA6. If yes, you need a software update,
Coolant level is OK.
The following codes have come up P1E00, U0100, P1FFF, P0AA6. The 12v battery has been checked too & has passed. The battery coolant sensor wiring was repaired last year by the dealer too. Have run the main battery down & used the ICE to run. Attempted to clear the codes, but the same SHVCS warning is displayed :(
 

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Coolant level is OK.
The following codes have come up P1E00, U0100, P1FFF, P0AA6. The 12v battery has been checked too & has passed. The battery coolant sensor wiring was repaired last year by the dealer too. Have run the main battery down & used the ICE to run. Attempted to clear the codes, but the same SHVCS warning is displayed :(
That other random error code (U0100) is shown as "Lost Communication With ECM/PCM 鈥淎鈥 U0100 Detects that CAN serial data communication has been lost with the ECM" according to Volt/Ampera fault codes pages of the service manual. Not that I can be of much help with it, other than to try read the codes again in case it was a glitch, sorry. Other than that, the codes are basically what I had/have too - and seem to indicate a HV battery to ground resistance issue - that may be fixable by a firmware upgrade to increase the trigger threshold, but which may also lower the car's range :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That other random error code (U0100) is shown as "Lost Communication With ECM/PCM 鈥淎鈥 U0100 Detects that CAN serial data communication has been lost with the ECM" according to Volt/Ampera fault codes pages of the service manual. Not that I can be of much help with it, other than to try read the codes again in case it was a glitch, sorry. Other than that, the codes are basically what I had/have too - and seem to indicate a HV battery to ground resistance issue - that may be fixable by a firmware upgrade to increase the trigger threshold, but which may also lower the car's range :(
Thank you. I will need to contact the dealer to get it booked in.
 

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Coolant level is OK.
The following codes have come up P1E00, U0100, P1FFF, P0AA6. The 12v battery has been checked too & has passed. The battery coolant sensor wiring was repaired last year by the dealer too. Have run the main battery down & used the ICE to run. Attempted to clear the codes, but the same SHVCS warning is displayed :(
As expected. You have two options:

1. update HPCM2 only, which will "unlock" the charging. It will not raise isolation threshold but it works in most of cases
2. update both BECM and HPCM2. Range will be reduced 10% but it will take care of isolation readings.

Dealer usually just follow the script and update both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As expected. You have two options:

1. update HPCM2 only, which will "unlock" the charging. It will not raise isolation threshold but it works in most of cases
2. update both BECM and HPCM2. Range will be reduced 10% but it will take care of isolation readings.

Dealer usually just follow the script and update both.
I have booked my car into the dealer. Hopefully I won't get a huge bill or any nasty surprises. Thank you for your ideas.
 

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Nah, they will:
  • Check coolant level, find it OK
  • Read out error codes, find same codes as you did
  • Lift the car, remove battery leak plug. Find out that nothing is leaking
  • Try to fit the plug back, if it is broken, backorder new one (might take a week or two)
  • Reflash HPCM2 and BECM, erase codes
  • Bill you between 300 and 700 EUR in GBP.
  • (Optional) try to sell you some other stuff like filters, replacing belts etc.
 

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Nah, they will:
  • Check coolant level, find it OK
  • Read out error codes, find same codes as you did
  • Lift the car, remove battery leak plug. Find out that nothing is leaking
  • Try to fit the plug back, if it is broken, backorder new one (might take a week or two)
  • Reflash HPCM2 and BECM, erase codes
  • Bill you between 300 and 700 EUR in GBP.
  • (Optional) try to sell you some other stuff like filters, replacing belts etc.
So i need to sell my GM VCX Nano on here or Ebay as i was unable to ever get the AC Delco TDS portal to accept payment via cards from the UK, and no help from ACD. So i gave up.

My Chevy Volt went into UK "Bellingers" dealer (Vauxhall and ex-Chevy UK dealer) yesterday, collected it today. Despite them selling me a new coolant level sensor last August, and fitting it 1st October 2020 (less than 12 months) they refused to "honour" clearing the returned latched SHVS error under claim of this repair. They "insisted" of doing a system investigation, found zero hardware faults and just error codes P1E00 and P0AA6. They "fixed" it by reflashing the HPCM2 and BECM software (as they did in the 2020 repair) , charged and discharged the battery twice, and charged me 拢103.60 for the pleasure. On the drive home i used all the charge and have 9.4kw of the 2014-2019 10.1kw capacity useable, but this was also the case after the repair in 2020.

WOTS type defeat plug was ordered from USA last week!

So annoyed i couldn't buy the 鈧35 2 hour SPS programming slot off AC Delco from the UK and do it myself. Will fit the defeat plug as soon as it arrives from the USA, and from next Tuesday the Volt is being relegated to 2nd car with the arrival of a Peugeot E-208 GT until November (ONTO) and then a Tesla Model 3 LR from November.

Full retirement in 2022 when I can take delivery of a Tesla Model Y LR in the UK RHD. Then the Volt is going into storage as a future classic after some cosmetic touch ups, and only used as a "backup" car if Either Tesla is off the road without replacement provided.
 

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Sorry to hear that it did not work. Maybe you could try PSA site and just enter your VIN? I had no issues with Service Box (but I have an Ampera, not Volt). Reflashing was done in 10 minutes. At least Bellingers charged reasonable amount of money ... here in Sweden they would just tick the list and bill at least 500拢 for that.
 
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