Speak EV - Electric Car Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, am new around here.
I did post on another chat but thought it best to start a new one.

I have one of the older “dumb” chargemaster with tethered cable, and this weekend I installed the Shelly 1 to be able to set times to use with my cheap evening and weekend rates with EDF.
All seems to be working fine, but would just like somewhere here with more knowledge to confirm my install looks ok.
I’m just a bit concerned where I have taken the Live and neutral from to power Shelly.
I have taken direct from the mains coming in to the unit as seen in my photo.
I’m just worried that as the Shelly is a 16amp unit and the supply coming is 32amp, that it may overload and possibly cause a risk?
Or maybe I am wrong, not too sure.
But if someone could just confirm or not that my setup is ok, that would be great.

thank in advance
View attachment 141362
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,151 Posts
Hi all, am new around here.
I did post on another chat but thought it best to start a new one.

I have one of the older “dumb” chargemaster with tethered cable, and this weekend I installed the Shelly 1 to be able to set times to use with my cheap evening and weekend rates with EDF.
All seems to be working fine, but would just like somewhere here with more knowledge to confirm my install looks ok.
I’m just a bit concerned where I have taken the Live and neutral from to power Shelly.
I have taken direct from the mains coming in to the unit as seen in my photo.
I’m just worried that as the Shelly is a 16amp unit and the supply coming is 32amp, that it may overload and possibly cause a risk?
Or maybe I am wrong, not too sure.
But if someone could just confirm or not that my setup is ok, that would be great.

thank in advance
View attachment 141362
Best to use the Shelley to switch the 12v pilot, not the main supply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,253 Posts
I don't think the chargemaster has a fuse in it for the electronics at all, does it? Maybe get an inline fuseholder and a 1 amp fuse for your addition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Best to use the Shelley to switch the 12v pilot, not the main supply.
That’s what I’m doing I think, the red wire coming into the Shelly and the brown (all I had) going into the place of the red wire.
The Shelly need power to operate and connect to WiFi, so I’m just taking the power L and N from the main cable coming into the box.
Not else sure how I would get the L and N feed.
As it’s a direct feed from my main 32amp breaker, just want to be sure that the power supplied will not overload Shelly and cause any danger.
But looking at others, especially the guy who connected it to the junction box underneath, it seems their all connecting to the main cable to supply power to Shelly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
748 Posts
This has been answered on the other thread. The device will draw whatever power it needs...the power available from where it's connected is irrelevant. However, and this is meant with the greatest respect, the question shows a profound lack of understanding of how electrickery works. On that basis, for your own safety, please have someone qualified check over what you've done if you are at all unsure.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,478 Posts
This has been answered on the other thread. The device will draw whatever power it needs...the power available from where it's connected is irrelevant. However, and this is meant with the greatest respect, the question shows a profound lack of understanding of how electrickery works. On that basis, for your own safety, please have someone qualified check over what you've done if you are at all unsure.
Agreed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This has been answered on the other thread. The device will draw whatever power it needs...the power available from where it's connected is irrelevant. However, and this is meant with the greatest respect, the question shows a profound lack of understanding of how electrickery works. On that basis, for your own safety, please have someone qualified check over what you've done if you are at all unsure.
Thanks.
I started a new thread as didn’t want to impose on another.
I’m fairly confident with things, and just wanted to clarify that my wiring is correct, which Scrooge has kindly done.
Also with the kindest respect, if people had observed my photos, then they would know (as I do now) that I have only taken power to work Shelly, and not to relay through to supply charge to my EV, which it seems that a few of you “experienced guys” thought I was doing, but clearly shows in the photo I’m not.
I just wanted a straightforward answer based on my photos, all was ok.
Anyhow, all is good now, Scrooge has come to my aid.
After all ain’t that what forums are about?

All the best guys.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,478 Posts
Thanks.
I started a new thread as didn’t want to impose on another.
I’m fairly confident with things, and just wanted to clarify that my wiring is correct, which Scrooge has kindly done.
Also with the kindest respect, if people had observed my photos, then they would know (as I do now) that I have only taken power to work Shelly, and not to relay through to supply charge to my EV, which it seems that a few of you “experienced guys” thought I was doing, but clearly shows in the photo I’m not.
I just wanted a straightforward answer based on my photos, all was ok.
Anyhow, all is good now, Scrooge has come to my aid.
After all ain’t that what forums are about?

All the best guys.
It’s fair criticism, your post didn’t mention switching the pilot signal, and the fact you’re mentioning the relay is a 16 amp devices suggests you’re expecting a significant amperage to go through it. I spent several minutes looking at your picture thinking “this guys a moron, he hasn’t got a clue, has he stuffed 230v down one of the signal cables?”

Poor wiring in charge points can cause fires,that’s just a fact. I’d be very worried about how you’ve squeezed the additional 230v connection in alongside the original one. They should be set at a specific torque with as much surface area contact as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It’s fair criticism, your post didn’t mention switching the pilot signal, and the fact you’re mentioning the relay is a 16 amp devices suggests you’re expecting a significant amperage to go through it. I spent several minutes looking at your picture thinking “this guys a moron, he hasn’t got a clue, has he stuffed 230v down one of the signal cables?”

Poor wiring in charge points can cause fires,that’s just a fact. I’d be very worried about how you’ve squeezed the additional 230v connection in alongside the original one. They should be set at a specific torque with as much surface area contact as possible.
Moron? 😂
Spent several minutes studying?
Well if you was a confident and competent fella, you could see exactly what I was trying to do.
So Mr know it all smart ass, where would you have taken the extra 230v connection?
I only used 2.5 which slotted in pretty easy with space to move, and has a nice tight connection.

I don’t appreciate being called a moron, just take note for future reference.
If you can’t be helpful, don’t, comment at all.
👍🏻
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,478 Posts
Moron? 😂
Spent several minutes studying?
Well if you was a confident and competent fella, you could see exactly what I was trying to do.
So Mr know it all smart ass, where would you have taken the extra 230v connection?
I only used 2.5 which slotted in pretty easy with space to move, and has a nice tight connection.

I don’t appreciate being called a moron, just take note for future reference.
If you can’t be helpful, don’t, comment at all.
👍🏻
On the contrary, I am being helpful. Random advice from internet heroes about notifiable electrical works isn’t a good thing, especially if the person “having a bash at it” is not confident, competent, and able to articulate what they’re trying to achieve and what they have done, and should be discouraged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi OP, did you realise it should be possible to power the Shelley 1 with 12vdc. I don't know how good the isolation is between the input power and the output but 240v down the pilot line could cause some expensive damage. Have a read here for some additional useful info.
Shelly One WIFI Switch - Scargill's Tech Blog
Hi fella. Thankyou for the read up, was interesting.
There’s no need for 240v to go down the pilot as it won’t be connected to the power.
It’s only power to the Shelly 1, to operate the Shelly relay which in turn operates the open/closed circuit for the pilot to communicate between the EV car and when to supply the power.
Had a few confirms now, by some helpful guys to say my setup is the correct way.

Also not sure where you have pick up a 12v connection within the unit to which will feed a permanent live all the time.

The L and N on the Shelly is purely to power the little unit, and the I and O is what actually passes.
So yeah, I’m guessing if you had another 230v current go through the I and O and the relay is triggered, then it could cause damage, however it is only the 12v CP line passing through the I and O.

Please someone correct me if I’m wrong, as have learnt all this from some “helpful” people today.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
On the contrary, I am being helpful. Random advice from internet heroes about notifiable electrical works isn’t a good thing, especially if the person “having a bash at it” is not confident, competent, and able to articulate what they’re trying to achieve and what they have done, and should be discouraged.
Am more than confident and competent.
Just wanted clarification.

But thanks anyway Steady! 👍🏻
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top