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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been researching for about 2 weeks now, but can't find any info relating specifically to my problem. I see tons of posts about the 'shift to park' error, and people who can fully move the gearstick, but the car doesn't do anything.

However, i've got what may be a red herring.

When out, my car would not come out of Park. I shut the car off, started it, unlocked it, locked it, walked away from the car, came back etc... I eventually got it out of park, but the handbrake kept coming on. As soon as I was stationary, in Drive, the handbrake would come on. I sneakily managed to get the car home by not stopping at all. Once home, as soon as I put it into Park, it would not come out of Park.

At the same time, (by coincidence or not), the car would not accept a charge from my granny cable. The granny cable ( a Nissan Leaf Type 1 cable, as my original Ampera cable died) shows one green light solid, and the orange fault light flashes. When I connect the charger, the Car Dashboard light glows orange as it normally would for about 5 seconds, but then just goes out (no green light). Also, 'sometimes' the dash says 'charger connected' (even when it isn't), which means I can't shift out of park - other times it doesn't.

So my car won't accept a charge (therefore I ordered a replacement charge port for the car, which will arrive in a few days), and also it won't drive on engine only, because 'when I can ' get it out of park, the handbrake keeps coming on. Also, importantly, when I turn on the car, the gearbox 'clicks/knocks', a little like a relay or solenoid is being triggered on/off/on/off a few times before it stops. This leads me to think that perhaps the shifter sensor is playing up, therefore the car doesn't know if the car is in gear/neutral/park correctly (which may therefore be preventing a charge??)

Any ideas woul dbe greatfully taken on board. It's a 2012 so well out of warranty, and I don't fancy paying £300 to get the car to an Ampera Dealer, and then another £500-£1,000 for diagnostics/replacement parts on a car that's only worth a few thousand.

If it's any help, i've noted error codes for the last couple of weeks, which lead me to the charge port replacement being required:
P0AC4
P0D58
P1E00
P1E27
U1838
P06E7

Worth noting that I assumed it was the 12v battery at first, so replaced that and fully charged that low voltage battery with a smart trickle charger, so I am ruling out the 12v system.
 

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Ampera aka IGOR
Tesla Model 3 P
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I can't help at all with any of the issues, I've only had the car not charge but no warnings at all or dashtop light. It turned out to be a hairline crack in the chargeport and you've got that in hand already. If you haven' looked already it might be with a rake through the Volt Forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I've already been through multiple volt forums, no luck. Most issues are different, and I can't find anything about handbrake going on and off whenever it likes!
 

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Twin Amperas
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The clicking solenoid noise sounds like the gearshift interlock operating - this should be released when the car is powered on and the footbrake is depressed - you should hear it clicking when you press and release the footbrake with the car in park...

Maybe worth checking the switch/circuit on the footbrake - not sure if it simply uses the brake-light switch...

The other things which probably keeps it locked is having a charge cable plugged in...so the faulty charge port could be the cause...

Good luck and I hope you manage to get it sorted...the charge port might be all that's needed...
 

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P1E00 = some error. Nothing ever identifiable with this message.
P0AC4 seems emmissions-related, and rather vague, and not very critical.
P0D58 Proximity pin shorted to Earth sounds just like the failed socket you're swapping out.
U code is supposed to delete itself after a few error-free car-starts, some comms error. Sounds minor.

P06E7 says "Sensor Supply Positive Voltage Circuit 3 Low Voltage" and after this the manual says
"The motor control modules share an internal 15 V reference power supply in order to operate the drive motor sensors processors. This fault is handled inside the power inverter module, often referred to as the drive motor generator power inverter module, and no external circuits are involved. The control modules listed below are part of the power inverter module and are not serviced separately:
• Auxiliary transmission fluid pump control module
• Drive motor control module 1
• Drive motor control module 2
• Hybrid powertrain control module 1 "

So a fault in the Power Inverter Module could be affecting the Aux transmission fluid pump control module mentioned in the bullets?

P1E27 = "Auxiliary Transmission Fluid Pump Control Module Hybrid/EV Battery System Voltage High Voltage"
Hmm, the same ATF pump mentioned in P06E7 details? If so, maybe the automatic hydraulics aren't working, hence the gearbox clicking/knocking you report? It does rather sound like a dealer job to be, tbh.

I assume you cleared all the errors after putting in new 12V battery, and these aren't old codes hanging around? I got a zillion garbage codes when my 12V died.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brilliant, thanks for that diagnosis! I tried searching those.codes online, and came up.with a variety of different 'reasons' for the codes, so that's excellent that you've found that. It does indeed sound very much like a transmission issue, darn it! Fingers crossed the ATF fluid needs changing, only??? Haha.

I'll see what the charge port does, it anything. Then, suck it up and have a dealer look at it :(.

Thanks for the thoughts and help!
 

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think ive seen somewhere on the manual a way to "manually" disengage P , you need to take off the cover on the shifter though
 

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Yest here is a way to unlock a g'box stuck in P, but I think it's meant for when your car is totally dead, and needs towing onto a flatbed. Probably not the right thing to do here, when the g'box is clicking away tryng to do stuff.
 

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Ampera aka IGOR
Tesla Model 3 P
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My Ampera needed to have the ATF changed due to an error code being present (this was before I know about Bluetooth dongles - ignorance is bliss) no EML was displayed and the car behaved normally. The dealership said they had experienced this code before and were recommended, assume by Vauxhall/GM, to change the ATF to cure it. After this, I never had any issues with unknown codes. Hopefully, yours is the same.
 

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Hmm, just how does ATF get faulty & cause an error code? My Ampy is in Bellinger's at the mo, 84k miles, and I've supplied them with 8L of Gulf Dexron VI ATF & asked them to change it for me. The service Manager was a bit surprised, as they've (apparently) never done this to any Ampera, and he's seen some with 150k miles on the clock. Doesn't seem to feature on the regular service schedule apparently.
 

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Ampera aka IGOR
Tesla Model 3 P
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3,612 Posts
Hmm, just how does ATF get faulty & cause an error code? My Ampy is in Bellinger's at the mo, 84k miles, and I've supplied them with 8L of Gulf Dexron VI ATF & asked them to change it for me. The service Manager was a bit surprised, as they've (apparently) never done this to any Ampera, and he's seen some with 150k miles on the clock. Doesn't seem to feature on the regular service schedule apparently.
That I don't know, although something rings a bell about a possible clutch slipping/not working within spec and this was their attempt to fix it and being able to charge me for it as it was then a service item as opposed to if it failed it would have been a warranty item. At the time I did not know any better and trusted them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Great replies guys, thank you. I think ATF sounds like something I'll do as I've had a similar issue with a standard auto car where it wouldn't shift properly because of low ATF. I'll update this thread once I have a solution.
 
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