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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Discussion Starter #1
We've done this before but the regs change quicker than the Cabinet these days.

Just to check....

If I want to swap out 3 pin sockets in a garage, wired on a 20A spur, with a shuttered 16A commando socket, I presume that is [technically] OK for fitment in a garage, and for anyone moderately competent to wire up and is not reportable under BS 7671?

Once this non-re-portable change is made, it's OK to plug in a 16A EVSE with the relevant plug?
 

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Techincally fine, and very sensible compared to using a 13A socket long-term. Whether you bother with worrying about the part P nonsense is up to you.
Wiring regs only cover fixed wiring, so anything that plugs into a 16A socket is outside their scope.
There aren't shuttered commandos - you need an interlocked one, which prevents an empty socket being turned on.
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Discussion Starter #3
Techincally fine, and very sensible compared to using a 13A socket long-term. Whether you bother with worrying about the part P nonsense is up to you.
Wiring regs only cover fixed wiring, so anything that plugs into a 16A socket is outside their scope.
There aren't shuttered commandos - you need an interlocked one, which prevents an empty socket being turned on.
Thanks for the reply and input.

The situation is that I am renting a house for work reasons and it's not the time and place to have a charge point 'installed'. I've asked the agents and they say OK but get 'an electrician'. Yeah, pfff, I have seen the work of 'electricians', fluffy tail ends and stripped over-tightened screws and stripped threads that no longer hold the core in place properly.

I would like to say that I am not currently Part P certified but competent and the work is not reportable. Just checking that's still the case.

Sorry, yes, I meant interlocked. IIRC interlocked ceeform is OK for 7671 installation outside the main house?

I was also debating the possible consequences of putting a 32A socket on this 20A-rated spur. I don't see any reason not to unless regs say not to, it currently has 2 13A plugs, i.e. 26A, so the principle can't be that the socket itself has to be 'under-rated' to the spur. Of course, just don't plug anything in over 20A.

Any thoughts to any of that?
 

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The important thing is that the breaker rating does not exceed the cable rating. What is OK technically and what the regs say are 2 different things, but as long as the breaker rating is appropriate, it is safe, as teh worst thing that will happen is the breaker trips. You probably don't want to pull 20A long-term from a 20A MCB, so the 16A option is probably the best approach.
The 2x13A sockets on a 20A circuit is assuming diversity, i.e. you will never run both at full load.
 

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Presumably you are going to reinstate the original wiring when you leave, so a 32 A type socket will be fine as long as you keep the load below the continuous rating of the MCB.
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Discussion Starter #7
The important thing is that the breaker rating does not exceed the cable rating. What is OK technically and what the regs say are 2 different things, but as long as the breaker rating is appropriate, it is safe, as teh worst thing that will happen is the breaker trips. You probably don't want to pull 20A long-term from a 20A MCB, so the 16A option is probably the best approach.
The 2x13A sockets on a 20A circuit is assuming diversity, i.e. you will never run both at full load.
Presumably you are going to reinstate the original wiring when you leave, so a 32 A type socket will be fine as long as you keep the load below the continuous rating of the MCB.
Oh, yeah, of course, I would run 16A. The thing being I already have a 32A plug/socket (logical to use it!) and it's clearly going to be even better at handling 16A continuously than a 16A plug.

I have a 16A charge point in a box somewhere in the back of the garage (as we do these days! I think I have a couple of them) so will just put a wire and plug on it.

If I understand correctly, if I were to hard wire one up directly then I'd be in conflict with various regs, but if I put a socket on the spur and plug something in then it's OK. Seems a bit illogical but since when has logic been a pre-requisite for a regulation?

So that's actually the case isn't it, and it's all unreportable under Part P/BS7671?
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Discussion Starter #9
Well, they might, the landlord does inspections.
 

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2011 Leaf with Muxsan 17.6kWh battery, curt tow hitch fitted for bikes or buzz rack P10
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interesting. I was looking at putting in a smart EU socket to turn on my 16a tethered pod-point charger. Thing that mostly stopped me was my house wifi being 5.8ghz which seems not to work with lots of these smart home devices. If it did though I could do time of day charging and ifttt for £12. Having 2 first gen leafs means I never have to worry myself about 32amps.
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Discussion Starter #13
My management company agent did an electrical inspection where I live, that included my BMW charger installation in my garage.
Of course that is fine.

I am talking about installing a ceeform socket, I don't think that is explicitly allowed in BS7671, but perhaps allowed implicitly.

IIRC the regs are slightly vague on that point. I think it says sockets should be 'shuttered' but goes on to say this is to prevent exposed live pins, so an interlocked socket addresses the purpose of BS7671 but not necessarily the precise wording.

Is that [still?] correct?

The next ambiguity is whether the BS7671 requirement for shuttered sockets is relevant to an isolated garage, rather than within the home?

I don't have a current copy of BS7671. It is this I am asking about. In my own house I would take my own counsel, but this is someone else's house so I am just being a bit more cautious.
 

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Fwiw the NIC who installed my ceeform socket in my detached garage didn't fit an interlocked one, presumably his assessment is that my garage is not domestic.
 
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