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Discussion Starter #1
In case anyone needs to know, the long bolt that's used to hold the spare wheel in needs a 7mm spanner/socket.

This surprised me, and it took a while of digging through my toolbox to find a 7mm socket!
 

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In case anyone needs to know, the long bolt that's used to hold the spare wheel in needs a 7mm spanner/socket.

This surprised me, and it took a while of digging through my toolbox to find a 7mm socket!
Thanks @Paul M .
If your tool box is of a certain age, like mine.
Then a 9/32” AF ( imperial ) spanner will also do the same job.
I have also applied a light film of copper grease to the small threaded section of the stud before installing it into the boot floor.
Any oil based product will do.
A bit of a an over the top belt and braces approach really.
But there you go !.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
top tip for bodgers: if you have a socket or nut of the wrong type (imperial vs metric) for your tool and it's a bit loose, then wrapping the nut with aluminium foil will often work if you're desperate. Also, if a screw driver doesn't fit the screw head perfectly, stuffing aluminium foil in and then pressing hard with the screwdriver can work, also if you're desperate. These are bodges I invented, and I take no pride in them nor take responsibility for any damaged tools or bolts or nuts or screws!
 

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It's an awfully small screwhead. What is the threadsize?
Can you replace the screw with one that has a bigger head.
 

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Doesn't the car come with a suitable tool? Does it have a wheelbrace?
Do you mean to fit the stud ?.
If so - NO.
Because the car does not come with a space saver as std equipment.
As std the car does not come with a wheel brace or jack.
They only give you the inflation kit as std.
 

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I am not sure why you would want to do this @freddym .
Can you please expand.
I am not sure why you would want to do this @freddym .
Can you please expand.
A 8mm Across Flats (AF) or better still 10mm AF is a much more common spanner size and also far less likely to round off if one is forced to use an open ended spanner. Then again a hex socket screw would normally be a better choice than a 7mm AF. Again it depends on the torque required for the screw to do its job. Pictures please. Whats is the thread size?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I didn't take the bolt out of the car. Do we need to be concerned about anti-rust treatment for the threaded hole, does it go through the bottom of the car and thus expose the area to a corrosion risk? If so, I will take my bolt out, clean the area and do some anti-rust treatment.

Does anyone know if there's some thread lock stuff like this 221 | Loctite Loctite 221 Purple Threadlocking, 50 ml, 24 h Cure Time | RS Components which has anti-corrosion properties?
 

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I didn't take the bolt out of the car. Do we need to be concerned about anti-rust treatment for the threaded hole, does it go through the bottom of the car and thus expose the area to a corrosion risk? If so, I will take my bolt out, clean the area and do some anti-rust treatment.

Does anyone know if there's some thread lock stuff like this 221 | Loctite Loctite 221 Purple Threadlocking, 50 ml, 24 h Cure Time | RS Components which has anti-corrosion properties?
I would not be overly concerned about corrosion forming between the stud and the treads in the captive nut in the boot floor Paul.
The captive nut is in a central location in the boot floor that is not subjected to a lot of water.
I only applied copper grease to the threads of the lower section of the stud as a belt and braces measure really.
Loctite products tend to be of a “stud lock” type.
Great if you never want to remove the stud again !.
I want the facility to be able to remove my stud, should I need to for what ever reason.
Loctite on the stud would make it almost impossible to remove with a 7mm spanner from the top.
I don’t really see the need to install the stud THAT tight.
It just needs “nipping” with spanner.
That’s why I think they have made the nut so small.
If they made the nut larger, which would be easy.
People would be tempted to apply more torque to the stud that is really necessary.
The stud is only there to allow the large plastic hold down nut to pinch the foam case that holds the jack and wheel brace etc.
I think we are over thinking it’s important’s really ?.
I used my car for a day without the hold down nut because the dealer had misplaced it !.
There was no rattling from the items in the kit.
The space saver sits on a rubber like mat in the wheel well.
 

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I have coiled my Type 2 cable around the space saver.
I don’t carry out a lot of public charging.
I have a tethered wall box at home.
The warning triangle etc from the original kit fits at the back of the space saver.
You can see that John has done the same.
Looks like John is carrying his MG bottle of tyre sealant as well.
I already had a tin of "Holts Tyre Weld" from my previous car, so I have put that in there as well.
Not sure why I would need it now I have a spare wheel of course, just more over kill !.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was going to wrap the things to be placed in the wheel well in a bag, just in case, because some people have found it's got water in it.
 
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