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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thought it might be helpful to share my experience, in case others want to do a speaker upgrade in future. Although I notice a 7+1 speakers plus subwoofer' seems to be an option for 2022 ID3s.

@loggamatt's quest was about whether he could get rear speakers (my Tour already had them), but it got me wondering about whether I should get mine upgraded. Then @ElliotViola getting the JL C3 components fitted to his 1st Edition and his comments on them had me looking at those.

I started off going to a place local to me that had fitted a new radio to a previous car. They were determined to get me to keep the woofers (as they said the mid frequencies were OK), change the tweeters and fit a subwoofer in the passenger footwell- complete with controller on a dangling cable to turn the subwoofer up and down. This really wasn't what I was interested in, I wanted clarity of sound, not banging bass causing the car to vibrate.

So I contacted the installer @ElliotViola had used - Whitton Car Audio - who were great. I ended up going for the JL C3 components in the front, and the JL C2s in the rear. (I don't have many passengers in the rear, they're just there for sound reinforcement.) The total bill was just over £800. To be fair over £550 of that was the speakers, and some adaptors were needed for the rears to give the best fit. It was a 6+ hour job to get it all done.

One warning - to feed the new wiring through to the woofers in the front door, the installer had to to undo a cable linked to the airbags. Even though it was put back correctly it triggered a sensor that caused the airbag warning light to come on. Fixing that meant a trip to my local dealership who quizzed me about what had happened - I was honest, and they then told me that because the work was not carried out by VW it might have voided the warranty and and a repair might be chargeable. In the end it was all good, they just reset the sensor and it's been fine since. I should point out that the dealer @ElliotViola went to just did the reset without any of those warnings.

So with that risk and the cost has it been worth it? Absoloutley. The speakers are fantastic. If you want loads of bass you would need a separate sub, but there's a decent amount there if you turn up the EQ, and its got a real 'kick' to it. Where as before everything sounded a bit 'meh', there is now real clarity to higher and mid frequency sounds. So much detail and impact to music. I'm still playing around with the EQ a bit to get the best out of them, and the installer did say they'd take a while to bed in.

The output of the VW audio system is, from the best information I can find, 20W per speaker. The spec of the C3s says they should be run from 25 - 150W, so that's a bit less than they're probably getting. The C2s say 20W, so all good there. I'm not finding I need to turn the system much louder than before (if at all) to get a good level out of them.

Comments online seem to be that to really get the best from them you need a separate amp fitted, but that would have pretty much doubled the cost, and these are enough of a jump in quality to satisfy me. Of course for the ultimate installation you would need a sub too, but for me I'd just end up running it pretty low!
 

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Oh no, you’re going to trigger @loggamatt again! 😂

Sounds good anyway, and pleased you’re happy with it.

Actually, and whisper this so he doesn’t hear, but I’m thinking of an audio upgrade as well. The only thing stopping me is that I’m thinking I might be changing the ID.3 in the next 6 months, @Jono63 and his Polestar order have got me thinking…

But anyway, if I don’t, I think I’ll be giving them a call myself, or going my own way with a more ‘ghetto’ install.
 

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I might be changing the ID.3 in the next 6 months, @Jono63 and his Polestar order have got me thinking…
If you can live with sub 200 mile range then the Polestar 2 is a REALLY nice bit of kit!
The range was the only thing that stopped us getting one, yes it's £10K dearer... but it's much nicer than our Tour.
 

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Well now, what’s going on over in this thread I wonder….. 😁

I’ve actually been in more of a “maybe I’ll just live with it” phase about the whole thing recently. I just think, if I’m going to bother to spend money on it I’ll want to go all out and get a sub as well as rear speakers, so I’d need to find somewhere to hide an amp, and a sub. Plus, I can’t see my local dealer doing me any favours now after I pushed them pretty close to rejection if I needed warning lights reset and suchlike. And it’ll cost at least a grand I’m sure.

I expect the more you all talk about it, the more I’ll feel tempted and start thinking about it again though! 😜
 

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If you can live with sub 200 mile range then the Polestar 2 is a REALLY nice bit of kit!
The range was the only thing that stopped us getting one, yes it's £10K dearer... but it's much nicer than our Tour.
The range thing concerned me - I did a lot of digging around, chatted to numerous forum members etc.

It’s certainly not got the range of the Tour, but many owners are now getting into the mid 200’s. Most admit they can’t help playing and don’t think that’s helping much with the economy 😂
 

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The range thing concerned me - I did a lot of digging around, chatted to numerous forum members etc.

It’s certainly not got the range of the Tour, but many owners are now getting into the mid 200’s. Most admit they can’t help playing and don’t think that’s helping much with the economy 😂
Don’t tell the wife, but I would get nowhere near the advertised range of her M3 either the way I drive it! 😂
 

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Don’t tell the wife, but I would get nowhere near the advertised range of her M3 either the way I drive it! 😂
Why doesn’t that surprise me 😂

I think you’ve hinted a few times, you drive like you want and are more careful with range when required

95% of the time, I’ll need less than 100, when I do, I’ll just have to be careful, or stop a few times to charge (whilst changing my underwear)
 

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Not that you’ve all got me thinking about this again (damn you @jeffUK !! ;) ), but if I did go for something like this and the same thing happened to me with the airbag warning light coming on, what would my options be if my local dealer were arseholes about it? Like, if they said “uh oh… shouldn’t have messed around with it! Nothing we can do, sorry. Oh, and don’t even think about talking to us about rejection anymore now you’ve done this. Have a nice day buddy, enjoy your airbag warning!” Could I just take it to literally any other VW dealer and ask them to help me or would I be totally screwed?
 

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Not that you’ve all got me thinking about this again (damn you @jeffUK !! ;) ), but if I did go for something like this and the same thing happened to me with the airbag warning light coming on, what would my options be if my local dealer were arseholes about it? Like, if they said “uh oh… shouldn’t have messed around with it! Nothing we can do, sorry. Oh, and don’t even think about talking to us about rejection anymore now you’ve done this. Have a nice day buddy, enjoy your airbag warning!” Could I just take it to literally any other VW dealer and ask them to help me or would I be totally screwed?
You and your rear speakers 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not that you’ve all got me thinking about this again (damn you @jeffUK !! ;) ), but if I did go for something like this and the same thing happened to me with the airbag warning light coming on, what would my options be if my local dealer were arseholes about it? Like, if they said “uh oh… shouldn’t have messed around with it! Nothing we can do, sorry. Oh, and don’t even think about talking to us about rejection anymore now you’ve done this. Have a nice day buddy, enjoy your airbag warning!” Could I just take it to literally any other VW dealer and ask them to help me or would I be totally screwed?
Oh dear @loggamatt I am sorry! ;)

I don't think any dealer would be able to refuse to fix it, especially because (even though you know there's nothing wrong) it's a safety warning. I think the worst they could do is charge you for any 'repair', just as mine threaded to do if they found anything wrong. If they really did refuse to touch then I think you'd be able to take it another dealer and ask them to do it.

Or you could have an experience like @ElliotViola did and they'd be perfectly fine about sorting it out. The system / sensor should just need a reset, that was what happened with mine.

I guess the alternative is just not to say anything. My concern was if they did then start really poking around and find something they'd be more likely to try and charge me then if I explained what had happened. As I said, despite their warnings, they did what was required without any charge or warning that the warranty had been invalidated. The service manager claimed he hadn't told the technician the reason, saying it would have made it likely they'd have charged me, but I'm not sure whether I believe that.

As I said, it was a concern but the sound is now really really good, and if you did it with an amp and sub as well you'd have a fantastic setup.
 

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Just so you all know, I literally dreamt about rear speakers last night… :ROFLMAO: From what I remember, I was running around the country trying to find a Tech model to swap my Family for so I could have rear speakers. I finally found one, and it got destroyed before my eyes by someone crashing into it.

Any amateur dream interpretation experts out there who want to score how insane I am on a scale of 1 to 10, please feel free :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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Just so you all know, I literally dreamt about rear speakers last night… :ROFLMAO: From what I remember, I was running around the country trying to find a Tech model to swap my Family for so I could have rear speakers. I finally found one, and it got destroyed before my eyes by someone crashing into it.

Any amateur dream interpretation experts out there who want to score how insane I am on a scale of 1 to 10, please feel free :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
I’m really starting to worry about you - perhaps the “Go Fund Me” suggestion I proposed on another thread, may have a more needy Recipient 😂

Also Tech spec is discontinued, you will need a Max of Tour, just stay away from my bad boy Max
 

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Just so you all know, I literally dreamt about rear speakers last night… :ROFLMAO: From what I remember, I was running around the country trying to find a Tech model to swap my Family for so I could have rear speakers. I finally found one, and it got destroyed before my eyes by someone crashing into it.

Any amateur dream interpretation experts out there who want to score how insane I am on a scale of 1 to 10, please feel free :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
I’m no dream analysis expert, but I think it means you’re suppressing your desire to buy a Mk1 Leaf.
 

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but if I did go for something like this and the same thing happened to me with the airbag warning light coming on, what would my options be if my local dealer were arseholes about it?
The worst they would do would be to charge you for the reset & note on your car's account that the warranty is voided by the install. I very much doubt they'd turn you away.
 

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I’m taking it as my subconscious telling me I should just pay the blasted money to get an aftermarket audio upgrade I think! I’m going to call around a few places today.

The worst they would do would be to charge you for the reset & note on your car's account that the warranty is voided by the install. I very much doubt they'd turn you away.
Do you think it’s worth taking it to a different dealer than my own local dealer to get the reset done? I’m not worried about paying them for the reset… I will literally walk in and say I’ve just had the audio upgraded, so it’s my own fault, so I’m happy to pay whatever their standard charge is for a code reset. But I am worried about the note on my car’s account that says the warranty is voided bit!

Would I be more likely to get away with just paying for the code reset, without the warranty voiding note if I didn’t go to my local dealer who have a stake in all this as the people who would likely do future warranty work on the car if needed?
 

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Would I be more likely to get away with just paying for the code reset, without the warranty voiding note if I didn’t go to my local dealer who have a stake in all this as the people who would likely do future warranty work on the car if needed?
It's a coin flip on the warranty thing I think. Personally I wouldn't risk anything that could void my warranty on a new ID.3; it could cost a lot of money to fix the smallest of issues, as we know all too well, cars have been at dealers for days/weeks worth of labour. I don't imagine your particular dealer has had any more or less experience with ID.3 issues than any other. Law of averages dictates with so many faulty/misbehaving cars all the dealerships will have had some by now.

Only reason I can think of to avoid your local dealer is if you had upset them in some way. Ultimately it's up to you if you want to run the gauntlet :)
 

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I think we should be clear that fitting some aftermarket audio won’t automatically wipe out the warranty on the rest of the car, the battery and motor etc along with all the mechanical bits will still be covered.

Given the complexity of the ID.3s infotainment/onboard computers and software though, it still leaves a lot of stuff within scope of a dealer kicking off around a warranty claim.

It depends on the dealer as well, most will just stick a claim in for warranty repairs and that’s the end of it, most aren’t particularly keen on dropping a customer in the muck, especially as without the warranty claim cash you’ll likely go somewhere else like an independent or another dealer.

I’m sure there will be a retrofit option soon, if they can retrofit the pull out load carrier that involves cutting the bumper, wiring and programming for less than £1k including the hardware and labour, then why they can’t fit a couple of speakers officially I don’t know.

I’m still convinced that the infotainment unit is software restricted rather than hardware, I think somebody somewhere will find a way to access it at some point, then it will just be a case of a factory wiring loom to plug in and a pair of speakers to fit.
 

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I think we should be clear that fitting some aftermarket audio won’t automatically wipe out the warranty on the rest of the car, the battery and motor etc along with all the mechanical bits will still be covered.

Given the complexity of the ID.3s infotainment/onboard computers and software though, it still leaves a lot of stuff within scope of a dealer kicking off around a warranty claim.

It depends on the dealer as well, most will just stick a claim in for warranty repairs and that’s the end of it, most aren’t particularly keen on dropping a customer in the muck, especially as without the warranty claim cash you’ll likely go somewhere else like an independent or another dealer.

I’m sure there will be a retrofit option soon, if they can retrofit the pull out load carrier that involves cutting the bumper, wiring and programming for less than £1k including the hardware and labour, then why they can’t fit a couple of speakers officially I don’t know.

I’m still convinced that the infotainment unit is software restricted rather than hardware, I think somebody somewhere will find a way to access it at some point, then it will just be a case of a factory wiring loom to plug in and a pair of speakers to fit.
That's a really good point - what's in it for the dealer to go out of their way to refuse a warranty claim? They'd rather get the money from VW than for me to walk out of the door surely? I guess it would just be if it got tricky and ended up being a lot of back and forth with VW that sooner or later the question would be asked whether I interfered with anything to do with the system that's broken, and the temptation then would be for VW to use it as a reason to decline to repair under warranty.

Nevertheless, I think if I have to get a code reset specifically as a result of the work to upgrade the audio system, I would probably go to a different dealer to do that. I still don't think I'd want my local dealer to have the thought in their heads any time I bring my car in for anything "oh yes, I remember this car, it has an aftermarket sound system."

As for the aftermarket kits, who knows eh? Probably the best way to come to terms with this (if I do go the 3rd party upgrade route with a dedicated amp) is that it should come out sounding way better than even the factory 6.1 system would have. I mean, Jeff had the 6.1 system and still upgraded it after all, so there's a business case for doing it even if your ID.3 comes with rear speakers!
 

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Decided to take the afternoon off and drive to a couple of car audio places near me that get good online reviews and have a chat through it.

First place reckoned to put Audison speakers in the doors (front and rear), run them through a Kicker Key 4-channel amp hidden in the dash, then put a Kicker HS8 powered sub in the little cubby in the boot (where I currently have my charging cable). I was a bit unsure about this as the HS8 is slightly too big, and sticks out the top a few millimetres. But they seemed to think that would be ok as the carpet almost still lies flat over it. Quote for all that installed was £1,300.

Second place I went to also suggested using the Kicker Key, but he thought I should upgrade gradually and see if I feel it needs things like subs. He thought that, actually, I'd be best off forgetting about putting speakers in the rear doors, as he said it'd be easier for him to just make a new parcel shelf and put speakers in that than have to run new cables into the rear doors. I hadn't thought about that, so am mulling it over still. Part of me thinks that might be a bit cheap looking on a brand new car... last time I had speakers in the parcel shelf of a car I think I was about 18! :LOL:
 
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