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Nissan Leaf 2016 Acenta 30kWh
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, we bought our first EV a few weeks ago so we're just getting to know its quirks - a used Nissan Leaf 30.

We've noticed that it squeaks a lot - both as we first start up the car and reverse, and also using the windows. I'm hoping that's just something to do with the cold damp weather at the minute - maybe wet brake pads or something?

As for the windows, with every other car we've had, a standard method for clearing moisture off the sides is to roll the window down and back up. But with the LEAF it squeaks a lot, and then winds back up with all the moisture still on it! Is that normal? Or is there something wrong with the seals at the base of the windows? Either way, we find we have to manually wipe the windows a lot at the minute - it's feeling like be bought the car at the worst time of year for it :)
 

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Start and reverse is probably slightly binding brake pads especially at the back.
Just do a couple of hard brakes without regen from about 30mph to clear the rust from the brakes.
There's a chance they might need re-greasing but lack of use is usually the issue.

Windows - yeah that's what I found when I used to have one, they just don't clear. Normal I'm afraid.
The workaround is to use the pre-heat in this season :)
Something like rain x might help.
Note I tried it on the main windscreen and hated it on that.
Wipers squeaked it didn't clear well. Side windows may be better.
 
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Leaf 30kWh, Outlander PHEV
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Windows and windscreen wipers suck in Leaf30.
To clean windows push out as you open / closer.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
 

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Nissan LEAF30
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it's feeling like be bought the car at the worst time of year for it
I think that's a fair summary.

The LEAF is not designed to have seals between the glass and the top of the door, water is supposed to run into the door, but this means that you cannot clear the windows by winding them down and up. Best to buy a shower type squeedge.

Preconditioning is a major plus for demisting the car, but in this weather you need to run the fans onto the windscreen and ideally have the drivers window open a crack. I have bought a set of wind deflectors which allow this without a major draft.

There are two sets of rear brakes and it is often the "handbrake" (that you operate by foot - the American term emergency brake is more appropriate) that squeaks. The best way to cure this is to gently apply the footbrake at low speeds a few times when it is safe to do so - note heavy application will lock the wheels and the ABS doesn't operate on this system.
 

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Nissan Leaf 2016 Acenta 30kWh
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks folks - really helpful, and good to know these quirks are standard, rather than us buying a dodgy vehicle! Seems bizarre that it's designed to let the water go inside the door - seems to go against battery conservation if some people end up using climate control to sort it!
 

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Thanks folks - really helpful, and good to know these quirks are standard, rather than us buying a dodgy vehicle! Seems bizarre that it's designed to let the water go inside the door - seems to go against battery conservation if some people end up using climate control to sort it!
I second the park brake for squeaking. In the wet mine gets a bit noisy sometimes especially in reverse. It seems to rust up a little.
If you drive along at 20mph and dab the handbrake on to stop the car that often removes the rust and gunk and quitens it down.

My Windows squeak when not used a lot but quieter when used more regularly. Don't really notice anymore though.

We keep a micro fibre cloth in the car for the 360 cameras. I really like the 360 view now I am used to it (although really odd view to begin with its very useful). In the damp murky weather the cameras are worth a very quick wipe as you get in the car to remove condensation especially as no reverse beeps.
 

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Seems bizarre that it's designed to let the water go inside the door
I should have said that there is a drain at the bottom of the door to let it out again! The main advantage is that the windows don't get scratched by the seals and there is less chance of damage when it is all frozen.
 

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I think that's a fair summary.

The LEAF is not designed to have seals between the glass and the top of the door, water is supposed to run into the door, but this means that you cannot clear the windows by winding them down and up. Best to buy a shower type squeedge.

Preconditioning is a major plus for demisting the car, but in this weather you need to run the fans onto the windscreen and ideally have the drivers window open a crack. I have bought a set of wind deflectors which allow this without a major draft.
I'm confused by this. Are we talking about condensation on the inside of the side windows or rain on the outside ?

I've not really had any problems with condensation on the inside of the windows - in fact it has been a lot better than my other recent cars. I do precondition and I'm sure that helps, and I usually just leave the heating system on Auto.

The only time I find I have to override auto is if it's 6-15 degrees, raining heavily and humidity is 100% outside then it will start to fog slightly inside, all I do is press the AC button. Yes it uses more energy since the heating is now entirely up to the resistance heater, (with the A/C "fighting it") but that has always been sufficient to keep the inside of all the windows clear even in the worst wet conditions. If you need to quickly demist press the demist button and leave it on for a few minutes until cleared, then turn demist off again leaving it with heat and AC enabled together which is plenty to maintain clear windows once they are initially cleared.

So far I've found the Leaf quite a good winter car especially when preheating is available. The heater is far better than the one in the Ion using far less power, (so easier to keep the cabin warm and dehumidified) and it doesn't fog easily inside like my ICE car.
 

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I'm confused by this. Are we talking about condensation on the inside of the side windows or rain on the outside ?

I've not really had any problems with condensation on the inside of the windows - in fact it has been a lot better than my other recent cars. I do precondition and I'm sure that helps, and I usually just leave the heating system on Auto.

The only time I find I have to override auto is if it's 6-15 degrees, raining heavily and humidity is 100% outside then it will start to fog slightly inside, all I do is press the AC button. Yes it uses more energy since the heating is now entirely up to the resistance heater, (with the A/C "fighting it") but that has always been sufficient to keep the inside of all the windows clear even in the worst wet conditions. If you need to quickly demist press the demist button and leave it on for a few minutes until cleared, then turn demist off again leaving it with heat and AC enabled together which is plenty to maintain clear windows once they are initially cleared.

So far I've found the Leaf quite a good winter car especially when preheating is available. The heater is far better than the one in the Ion using far less power, (so easier to keep the cabin warm and dehumidified) and it doesn't fog easily inside like my ICE car.
Maybe more humid teenagers in my car...

Think we are talking about the outside of the window. In most cars opening and closing the window clears the outside of the window. Its not effective in my Leaf. Squeegee seems to be required equipment.
 

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Nissan Leaf 2016 Acenta 30kWh
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was talking about the outside windows. I just couldn't believe a wind-down wouldn't clear them, but if it's intentionally designed that way, then fair enough. 🤷‍♂️ Looking forward to being able to use pre-heating, but we won't be getting our EV charger installed until mid January at the earliest, so ice scraper and squeegee it is for now.
 

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Nissan Leaf 2016 Acenta 30kWh
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
By the way welcome. I hope you enjoy the Leaf. We've absolutely loved having our Leaf the last two years, looks like we'll be keeping it a few more years.
Thanks - I love it so far, although everything seems colder, wetter and more nerve-wracking so far. Slightly concerned by how quickly it flies through the battery too. Still got the full 12 bars on the capacity gauge, but any sort of heating seems to just eat it up. Our Christmas trip will be about 54 miles and at this rate, I'm not yet convinced we can do it without a charging stop!
 

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Thanks - I love it so far, although everything seems colder, wetter and more nerve-wracking so far. Slightly concerned by how quickly it flies through the battery too. Still got the full 12 bars on the capacity gauge, but any sort of heating seems to just eat it up. Our Christmas trip will be about 54 miles and at this rate, I'm not yet convinced we can do it without a charging stop!
54 miles should be fine. I managed 95 miles without a stop in January, but I did have to drive at 60.
You do have to expect the car to start nagging you that the battery is low at 14%. After a while you get quite good at ignoring that if you're close to where you are going.

For me warming the car up from the app only seems to use 2-3% of battery. If the car is plugged in you could also start charging when you start the heating from the app, though I generally don't bother so don't know if it helps much.
 

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Thanks - I love it so far, although everything seems colder, wetter and more nerve-wracking so far. Slightly concerned by how quickly it flies through the battery too. Still got the full 12 bars on the capacity gauge, but any sort of heating seems to just eat it up. Our Christmas trip will be about 54 miles and at this rate, I'm not yet convinced we can do it without a charging stop!
Driving the last few days at between -1 and 2 C I have noticed a big reduction in range
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
54 miles should be fine. I managed 95 miles without a stop in January, but I did have to drive at 60.
You do have to expect the car to start nagging you that the battery is low at 14%. After a while you get quite good at ignoring that if you're close to where you are going.

For me warming the car up from the app only seems to use 2-3% of battery. If the car is plugged in you could also start charging when you start the heating from the app, though I generally don't bother so don't know if it helps much.
Good to know. Still got to get the app set up - the cold and dark has put me off sitting out there figuring it all out!

Any good tips on how to get max range from a Leaf in this weather? We have Eco mode permanently on, and only use the heating when we really need it.
 

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According to Nissan Eco is worth "up to 2%", which to me isn't worth the feeling of driving with the handbrake on. Try to avoid too many changes in speed, and if you must use the heating :devilish: just leave it on as it is least efficient when it first starts. Ideally use preconditioning.
Otherwise keep your speed under 60 indicated and your tyre pressures at least 40psi.
 

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Good to know. Still got to get the app set up - the cold and dark has put me off sitting out there figuring it all out!

Any good tips on how to get max range from a Leaf in this weather? We have Eco mode permanently on, and only use the heating when we really need it.
I forgot the app set up. Yes that's a pain to deal with. Nissan were pretty useless, I hope they've improved.
Once you defeat the Nissan set up, I am happier with the MyLeaf app... it still uses the Nissan servers to talk to the car which seem to be the limitation on the system, however it's capable of adding a layer of helpfulness over the top...
 

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I was talking about the outside windows. I just couldn't believe a wind-down wouldn't clear them, but if it's intentionally designed that way, then fair enough. 🤷‍♂️
Can't say I even noticed - my other car has the rubber strips that are supposed to wipe the outside of the windows but they never work very well. If you can't see through rain drops at a T junction just wind the window down for a few seconds to get a better view - that's all I do... in both cars... and if its raining you'll quickly get rain drops on the side windows again anyway, you can't be winding the windows down and up again every couple of minutes, I take it as read that when it's raining side windows will spend most of their time with rain drops on them and drive accordingly.
Looking forward to being able to use pre-heating, but we won't be getting our EV charger installed until mid January at the earliest, so ice scraper and squeegee it is for now.
Why not set up the Nissan Connect EV app on your phone ? Although you can't pre-heat using the timer built into the car unless it's plugged in, you can activate preheating for 15 minutes via the phone app when it's not plugged in. I do this every day just before I leave work and it's so nice to arrive at a warm defrosted car.

You can even schedule the pre-heating via the app - although you can only set one schedule point so you have to re-schedule your heating each day, or just remember to activate it manually 15 minutes before you need the car.

The preheat temperature is set in the zero emissions section on the centre console and is independent of any heating settings when the car is turned on.

Of course preheating from battery doesn't save you any energy/range like preheating while plugged in does - it's just for comfort/convenience so you don't have to sit and wait for the car to defrost. In fact preheating from battery uses a bit more energy than simply turning the car on and running the heater normally as preheating doesn't use the heat pump, only the resistance heater.
 

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Thanks - I love it so far, although everything seems colder, wetter and more nerve-wracking so far.
Colder and wetter ? What do you have the temperature set to ? With it -1C outside I'm finding 22C quite warm and comfy, just wearing a shirt and jumper, no jacket. Perhaps even too warm, sometimes I drop it to 21C which feels "neutral", neither cold or hot.
Slightly concerned by how quickly it flies through the battery too. Still got the full 12 bars on the capacity gauge, but any sort of heating seems to just eat it up. Our Christmas trip will be about 54 miles and at this rate, I'm not yet convinced we can do it without a charging stop!
Preheating helps a lot - because it takes about the same amount of energy to heat the cabin up from 0C to 22C that it does to keep it at 22C for half an hour of driving. So once you're able to plug in at home and preheat from the mains you should notice a big difference.

I was getting 4 - 4.2 miles/kWh in July with minimal heater use on my work commute, now with temperatures hovering around 0C I'm getting around 3.3 miles/kWh with the cabin set to a very warm and comfortable 22C. 3.3 miles/kWh with a 30kWh Leaf at 90% SoH is good for about 85 miles.

If I drop the cabin temperature to 21C I can get about 3.6 miles/kWh with 0C outside. If you don't mind wearing a jacket and dropping the temperature to 20C or so you should be able to get even more.

The problem with the heating on the Leaf is that the heat pump typically only operates up to 500 watts (unless the fan speed is turned up very high) so if you see the climate control power consumption in excess of this (on the zero emissions page with the little half dials) then it usually means the resistance heater is running as well to provide additional heat.

The resistance heater uses about 3x as much power for the same heat output as the heat pump so if the heat demand is such that the resistance heater is brought into use efficiency will drop quite suddenly. This is why a small drop in cabin temperature setting can have quite a big effect on miles/kWh, as dropping the temperature a bit can mean that the resistance heater isn't required.

As an example if it says 2kW then it's most likely 500 watts for the heat pump and 1.5kW for the resistance heater, which will give you 1.5kW worth of heat from the heat pump for a total of 3kW of heat from 2kW of power.

Another thing to keep in mind is if you turn the Heating and AC on together (which auto never does - you have to do it manually) to stop the windows fogging this will use a lot more power as the heat pump will switch to cooling mode and all the heat will come from the resistance heater.

This can use as much as 3x as much power as heater alone depending on circumstances so try to only turn both on together if you need it to stop the windows fogging.

Demist mode also turns heating and AC on together and uses a lot of power so only use it until the windows are demisted then turn it off to go back to your regular settings.
 

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The windows let water run inside and out drain holes at the bottom
I used to have a Saab and they use the same system
Calling the inside of the doors a wet zone it causes condensation but ultimately no harm to the structure of the door or Windows.
Just some quirk we all need to get used to in the damp cold winters
 
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